Raising Boost On Xu10turbo Engine

[whizzer71 0]

Hi all I know some of you will cringe reading this but just want to wind up the boost a bit on mates turbo conversion until we get round to putting the Gt28 and emerald on it,Its all standard at the mo with exception of 1.9 Cat engine cam and a decent sized FMIC,has standard turbo etc.

Was just gonna go upto .9 bar by using a bleed valve,only question is where do you fit it?,between manifold and amal valve or between wastgate actuator and amal valve.

Would it be worth fitting the Saab Redtop injectors at the same time ?

 

Hope to do this Tomorrow (Sat) so would appreciate a few answers.

 

Cheers

 

Tristan

 

[Mikey G 3]

The standard ECU is good for upto 1 bar but that is the absolute maximum.

 

I fitted my manual boost control on the Xantia by replacing it in the electronic controllers position leaving the solenoid plugged in electrically, but the pipes fitted to the MBC instead. I have had no problems with this whatsoever but it does make the car come onto boost a little more harder compared to running it with the solenoid still inline.

[sonofsam 5]

Yeah, I noticed the boost was more aggresive coming on to with an MBC.

When I fitted my MBC (mechanical boost controller) It went inbetween the pipe coming from the wastegate and then

went onto the nipple on the front of the TB. As suggested in the instructions i disconnected electrical connection and vacuum hose

to the solenoid.

Have now gone back to the solenoid

 

Is it a 2 or 3 way bleed valve?

 

 

EDIT : http://www.406oc.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=144...ing+bleed+valve

Edited August 10, 2007 by sonofsam

[Mikey G 3]

It went inbetween the pipe coming from the wastegate and then

went onto the nipple on the front of the TB. As suggested in the instructions i disconnected electrical connection and vacuum hose

to the solenoid.

 

The vacuum hose is just the bleed off from the solenoid, just the same as the hole on a bleed valve.

 

Which nipple on the TB are you on about Sam? the 2 sticking out of the top are for vacuum as well as boost, the standard setup has the actuator feed supply in the boost hose from the intercooler to the throttle body which has no -ve vacuum.

[sonofsam 5]

It's the spare nipple on the front of the TB that is supposed to be for EGR/carbon canister I think? That im using.

I should plumb it into the boost hose at some point I know, but it's working OK at the moment.

Yeh the two on the top are fully occupied.

[Mikey G 3]

Ah right, i know the one now, i think that again is switched so has a high and low pressure so not sure how that will affect the actuator.

Obviously my Xantia is standard so runs the original pipework, but when we put Stu's engine in i tapped a fitting into the solid boost pipe from the turbo so we had a good solid pressure point to feed the solenoid and actuator.

[whizzer71 0]

The original (solenoid type valve) has three connections on it,Dont know about the bleed valve though as am gonna pick it up lunchtime,Sounds to me though that the two pipe type is gonna be the best.

 

Thanks for your help Guys !

 

Regards

 

Tristan

 

[Mikey G 3]

The original (solenoid type valve) has three connections on it,Dont know about the bleed valve though as am gonna pick it up lunchtime,Sounds to me though that the two pipe type is gonna be the best.

 

Thanks for your help Guys !

 

Regards

 

Tristan

 

 

If it is the 2 way type, you just need to fit the 2 pipes, as you look at the solenoid with the mounting plate to the back, the fitting to the left just goes to air, ignore this one. Th fitting to the bottom is the boost supply, and the fitting to the right goes to the actuator. I have never used a 3 way bleed valve.

 

I hope its a proper MBC you have and not a bleed valve as an MBC runs a ball and spring to control pressure more accuratly than a bleed valve that just bleeds off a percentage of the air that pushes through it.

Edited August 10, 2007 by Mikey G

[sonofsam 5]

Ah right, i know the one now, i think that again is switched so has a high and low pressure so not sure how that will affect the actuator.

Obviously my Xantia is standard so runs the original pipework, but when we put Stu's engine in i tapped a fitting into the solid boost pipe from the turbo so we had a good solid pressure point to feed the solenoid and actuator.

 

Yeah was a bit dubiuos at using it first (but it was suggested to me to use it by Jim2170 I have a solid pipe with tapped fitting also waiting to go on.

I would suggest using an MBC (spring and ball actuator/two line fitting) over a bleed valve as it may have a little more control.

or are you planning on having it inline with the standard solenoid?

 

Good luck and have fun either way Tristan

Edited August 10, 2007 by sonofsam

[maturin23 10]

I've got an unused Dawes Device I bought a few years ago for my Scoob - I could dig it out if anyone wants to make me an offer.

[whizzer71 0]

Dont know what type it is yet,Hopefully it'll be an MBC,but if it isnt then Ill put it between the solenoid valve and the actuator and retain the solenoid just to be on the safe side,dont want to be melting anything !.

 

Thanks again !

 

[bales 1]

I have noticed a very definate lag when not using the solenoid as you get wastegate creep and it does take considerably longer to get to full boost. Also as Sam said it is a lot harsher when coming on boost, for example on mine on standard 185/55 tyres in 4th gear in the wet it spins the wheels in the straight if you just put your foot down harshly. This sounds fun but is a bit rubbish when you realise that the car is completely undriveable in the first 3 gears in the wet, which mine is at the moment - s*it tyres probably don't help though (P6000's)

 

Am interested to know whether anyone else suffers from extreme wheelspin as I do, or whether it is a combination of crap tyres or a particularly strong engine, as considering this engine has been slagged off for being lazy and not very quick in a 205, when mine was running a bar (briefly) it was as quick as a mates 350bhp cossie upto 1xx mph. Which is odd given the supposed limit of 190bhp - though has this ever been proven on a dyno or is it just chinese whispers?

 

 

Alex

[whizzer71 0]

Well,This'll make you all laugh,we fitted the bleed valve and fitted a guage and the turbo is only managing a measly .03 bar with the valve fully closed not even the half a bar its supposed to do standard,Me thinks the turbo or the wastegate is F***ed,gonna try shortening the actuator arm but otherwise I think that the T28's going on a bit faster than was originally planned !

 

Tris.

 

[Mikey G 3]

Before condeming everything, remove the valve and connect the actuator direct to the boost supply. Check your boost gauge connections, remove any dump valve, as all these can leak boost and cause a false reading on the boost gauge. Then take the car for a spin and you should see 0.5 bar as this is actual actuator pressure iirc.

 

Seen this happen before and it turned out to be a leaky dump valve.

[Super Josh 4]

Tris, Don't fit the redtops yet, until you get everything sorted and switch over the prog. management Otherwise you'll just get mahoosive overfueling.

 

 

 

Josh.

[whizzer71 0]

Apparantly the wastegate arm had fallen off but its still only managing .6 with wastegate control disconnected,Im gonna take a look at it for him and see if any leaks etc are apparent.

Thanks Josh,We are gonna save the redtops for the unveiling of the T28 and Emerald,I think its gonna be an absolute Monster,It hit the rev limiter in 5th real quick Weds nite and thats with the hybrid box I built for him using 1.9 Gti Gearset And a 3.56 Cwp (With Quaife).

Once we have sorted this boost issue we are gonna try to track down a D turbo box I can Butcher for its cwp set and build another custom box for him

 

Watch this space

 

Tris

 

Edited August 10, 2007 by whizzer71