Need Advice On After Market Gauges

[GLPoomobile 958]

I'm considering getting some extra gauges for the car. I need to fill the space for the headunit as it will eventually be re-located , but my recent oil pressure scare combined with recent comments about how the standard senders and gauges all vary from unit to unit has made me realise that I'd really like to have an accurate oil pressure gauge.

 

1 - What gauges are recommended? I know you get what you pay for, so would some of the cheaper (£20) gauges that you see on eBay and the like be a waste of time?

 

2 - Do oil pressure gauges usually come with a sender? If not, how much do they usually cost?

 

3 - What pressure range do I need? 0-100 psi?

 

4 - What's the typical 'normal' oil pressure in PSI? (when the needle is about half way or a bit over on the standard gauge)

 

4 - Ammeter or Voltmeter? Which is more useful on a day to day basis?

[Mikey S 29 1 Cars]

I'm considering getting some extra gauges for the car. I need to fill the space for the headunit as it will eventually be re-located , but my recent oil pressure scare combined with recent comments about how the standard senders and gauges all vary from unit to unit has made me realise that I'd really like to have an accurate oil pressure gauge.

 

1 - What gauges are recommended? I know you get what you pay for, so would some of the cheaper (£20) gauges that you see on eBay and the like be a waste of time?

 

2 - Do oil pressure gauges usually come with a sender? If not, how much do they usually cost?

 

3 - What pressure range do I need? 0-100 psi?

 

4 - What's the typical 'normal' oil pressure in PSI? (when the needle is about half way or a bit over on the standard gauge)

 

4 - Ammeter or Voltmeter? Which is more useful on a day to day basis?

 

1. i really wouldnt bother going for a splitfire etc gauge as imo there s*ite. for my turbo i bought a TIM gauge and im pretty impressed with the quality of the thing. smiths are another well known make.

 

2. my boost gauge came with a complete fitting kit (tube, t pieces etc) but im unsure whether an oil pressure gauge will.

 

3. imo 0-150 psi would be better.

 

4. oil pressure when hot is around 60 psi at 4000 rpm.

 

5. i would say voltmeter as it gives an better indication of charge level.

 

hth

 

mike

[SPGTi 2]

I am after the same sort of thing. I have been looking at these

 

SPA

 

Having oil pressure / temp on a single gauge.

 

Steve

[GLPoomobile 958]

Thanks Mike, that does help. Was looking at TIM, Smiths, VDO etc. Glad you mentioned Smiths as their stuff is pretty reasonably priced so I wasn't sure if any good, although I knew they'd be around for years.

[Richie-Van-GTi 70 2 Cars]

I had a TIM boost guage and found it to be wildly inaccurate, switched to an SW guage which was far better. I now have a full range of autometer guages. Bit more expensive but so much better. They came with all the correct senders etc.

[sonofsam 5]

My boost guage is Racetech it looks and reads spot on .

[Sandy 189]

Oil temp is very useful, it's a better gauge of when the engine's warmed up than water temp and most are more accurate and useful than the comedy factory one.

[Anthony 1,000]

I'd get a mechanical oil pressure gauge personally if you're going to get an aftermarket one - comparing one side-by-side against the standard electronic gauge/sender was eye opening shall we say, particularly the speed in which the mechanical gauge reacts. Downsides are that it's a bit more of a pain to plumb in and you've the risk of damaging the oil capilery pipe and losing oil if you don't route it properly.

 

0-100psi should be fine (standard gauge is about 0-115psi), and you'll likely be seeing in the order of 60-75psi @ 4000rpm with hot oil.

[GLPoomobile 958]

I'd get a mechanical oil pressure gauge personally if you're going to get an aftermarket one - comparing one side-by-side against the standard electronic gauge/sender was eye opening shall we say, particularly the speed in which the mechanical gauge reacts. Downsides are that it's a bit more of a pain to plumb in and you've the risk of damaging the oil capilery pipe and losing oil if you don't route it properly.

 

0-100psi should be fine (standard gauge is about 0-115psi), and you'll likely be seeing in the order of 60-75psi @ 4000rpm with hot oil.

 

Anthony, have you compared a mechanical one to an good quality aftermarket electrical one?

 

Routing the pipe could be a bugger, like you say. Is there a redundant place on the back of an Mi block (oil level sender?) that I could fit the sender? Just thinking it would need less pipework if I can fit the sender at the back of the block rather than the front.

[TEKNOPUG 3]

I'd reccomend Autometer guages

[Ryan 99]

Is there a redundant place on the back of an Mi block (oil level sender?) that I could fit the sender? Just thinking it would need less pipework if I can fit the sender at the back of the block rather than the front.

 

That hole isn't into an oil gallery it's just straight down into the sump, so it won't see oil pressure.

[GLPoomobile 958]

That hole isn't into an oil gallery it's just straight down into the sump, so it won't see oil pressure.

 

Oh yeah, never thought of it like that! Duuuuuhhhhhhhhh

[GLPoomobile 958]

I've just ordered a pair of TIM gauges. Electric oil pressure, 0-100psi, comes complete with sender and range of adaptors etc. And a Voltmeter. Both have black faces and black housings so no in yer face boy racer stylee stuff . Came to £60 all in from speeding.co.uk.

 

Also ordered a T-piece adaptor from Matt Lewis Racing (ebay) so I can run the new sender from the original switch location, and keep the switch. So I'll have both the original pressure guage and the new one, plus the warning light working.

 

Does anyone know (cos I'm at work so can't check) if you can remove the switch from the block without removing too much stuff first (Mi16)? I figure I might have to remove the alternator and oil filter but that's no biggy. I know the pressure sender is a ball ache, but the switch is easier isn't it? Just wondering cos I want to do a basic cowboy test fit when I get the stuff just to double check my pressure situation, cos if there is an issue then I'll concentrate on sorting that problem first. If everything is fine, then I'll crack on with the original plan to strip down the bay and do all the little jobs that need doing.

[James_m 0]

I swapped the sender the other week. The only way it was possible, was inlet manifold off in a mi16.

But for the switch you might well get away with leaving the inlet on, im not sure.

Probably very fiddly if you do leave it on TBH.