jas-E 1 Posted July 22, 2007 Hey guys, My friend has a 205 1.6 H Reg Phase 2 and his crank seal kept leaking even after changing it. I have been told it could be the crank that has been bent and is causing the leak which is coming from behind the pulley that the altenator and power steering pump runs off.. Anyway, as a quick fix, intead of opening the bottom end (and even changing the oil pump which was on its way outl) we decided to get another engine and stick it straight in. Got one from a member of the forum who was really helpful on thursday and been working on it since friday morning (my first engine change so took my time just incase i forgot something!!) Worked at it all weekend and some bits were slightly different on the phase 1 engine (different bolts etc but got away with it..) but now im stuck on the ignition system... The dizzy cap arrangement i have always come across is the one where the dizzy has 2 bolts on it..but this engine i got has 2 clips on it..and all the ht lead ends are totally different to the phase 2 ones..so i got a phase 2 ignition amplifier that sits on the inlet manifold, but the ht lead from the phase one dizzy cap dont fit that ign amplifier..!! Now i can remove the bit the dizzy bolts one to - where you can loosen the two bolts and adjust the ignition timing, but i dont have a strobe light to set the timing..and both the engines have the ignition set at different points. Now is it that they are set differently because the dizzy caps sit at different orientations relative to the cam. If that is the case can i just mark where the dizzy is set on the phase 2 engine and replace the whole assembly (dizzy and the part it sits on with the ignition timing nuts) and pray to god it will work?? My second option would be to source a phase 1 ignition amplifier and replace the phase 2 one with the phase 1 (which looks like a fuel filter)..Now i understand they are sorta pricey unless i could pick one up from someone here...and how do you go about re wiring the amplifiers?? If anyone has gone through the same problems or knows how to get around this problem i would really appreciate any info/advice!! Thanks in advance Jas Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Richie-Van-GTi 70 2 Cars Posted July 22, 2007 swap over the distributor and cap from the old engine, set it about centre of the curved slots and use the old leads. This way you can also keep the old coil and ignition amplifier setup using the original loom. Incidentally, to help with future enquiries. Its the coil that sits on the inlet manifold (square type) or the inner wing (round type). the ignition amplifier is a small flat device with long multiplug usually found on the inner wing with the cylindrical coil. The distributor is the actuual metal part that bolts to the cylinder head, the distributor cap is the plastic part that bolts to the end of the dizzy or clips on in some cases. Dont worry about not having a strobe, you can loosen the 2 nuts that holds the dizzy to the hed and turn it slowly by hand with the engine running until you get a nice idle with the current AFM settings. Would be best to use the original manifold and throttle assembly to minimise any requiremnt for further setting up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve@cornwall 100 Posted July 22, 2007 (edited) Hey guys, My friend has a 205 1.6 H Reg Phase 2 and his crank seal kept leaking even after changing it. I have been told it could be the crank that has been bent and is causing the leak which is coming from behind the pulley that the altenator and power steering pump runs off.. Anyway, as a quick fix, intead of opening the bottom end (and even changing the oil pump which was on its way outl) we decided to get another engine and stick it straight in. Got one from a member of the forum who was really helpful on thursday and been working on it since friday morning (my first engine change so took my time just incase i forgot something!!) Worked at it all weekend and some bits were slightly different on the phase 1 engine (different bolts etc but got away with it..) but now im stuck on the ignition system... The dizzy cap arrangement i have always come across is the one where the dizzy has 2 bolts on it..but this engine i got has 2 clips on it..and all the ht lead ends are totally different to the phase 2 ones..so i got a phase 2 ignition amplifier that sits on the inlet manifold, but the ht lead from the phase one dizzy cap dont fit that ign amplifier..!! Now i can remove the bit the dizzy bolts one to - where you can loosen the two bolts and adjust the ignition timing, but i dont have a strobe light to set the timing..and both the engines have the ignition set at different points. Now is it that they are set differently because the dizzy caps sit at different orientations relative to the cam. If that is the case can i just mark where the dizzy is set on the phase 2 engine and replace the whole assembly (dizzy and the part it sits on with the ignition timing nuts) and pray to god it will work?? My second option would be to source a phase 1 ignition amplifier and replace the phase 2 one with the phase 1 (which looks like a fuel filter)..Now i understand they are sorta pricey unless i could pick one up from someone here...and how do you go about re wiring the amplifiers?? If anyone has gone through the same problems or knows how to get around this problem i would really appreciate any info/advice!! Thanks in advance Jas To use the inlet mounted coil and Ph1 dizzy, Use the king lead from the inlet mounted coil. This has a female end to it, where it plugs onto, rather than into, the dizzy cap, whereas the Ph1 is male. Just cut the female end back, leaving the copper band around the end of the lead. crimp this band with pliers until it will fit into the end of the dizzy cap and Bob's your uncle! l Edited July 22, 2007 by steve@cornwall Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jas-E 1 Posted July 22, 2007 Cheers Guys...thas just made my life soo much easier.. Apologies about getting my terminology wrong and thanks Richie-Van-Gti for the correct wording.. :-) Il have a crack at it tomorrow and see how it goes!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jas-E 1 Posted July 23, 2007 To use the inlet mounted coil and Ph1 dizzy, Use the king lead from the inlet mounted coil. This has a female end to it, where it plugs onto, rather than into, the dizzy cap, whereas the Ph1 is male. Just cut the female end back, leaving the copper band around the end of the lead. crimp this band with pliers until it will fit into the end of the dizzy cap and Bob's your uncle! l Does anyone know if i can get hold of a male to female ht lead so i can do what steve has told me to do..??maybe from halfords or a motorists centre?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jas-E 1 Posted July 23, 2007 To use the inlet mounted coil and Ph1 dizzy, Use the king lead from the inlet mounted coil. This has a female end to it, where it plugs onto, rather than into, the dizzy cap, whereas the Ph1 is male. Just cut the female end back, leaving the copper band around the end of the lead. crimp this band with pliers until it will fit into the end of the dizzy cap and Bob's your uncle! l Does anyone know if i can get hold of a male to female ht lead so i can do what steve has told me to do..??maybe from halfords or a motorists centre?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jas-E 1 Posted July 23, 2007 To use the inlet mounted coil and Ph1 dizzy, Use the king lead from the inlet mounted coil. This has a female end to it, where it plugs onto, rather than into, the dizzy cap, whereas the Ph1 is male. Just cut the female end back, leaving the copper band around the end of the lead. crimp this band with pliers until it will fit into the end of the dizzy cap and Bob's your uncle! l Does anyone know if i can get hold of a male to female ht lead so i can do what steve has told me to do..??maybe from halfords or a motorists centre?? (just dont want to chop the leads if i can get away with it...!! ) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zowow 0 Posted July 23, 2007 (edited) my advice is to keep as much in there from the phase one as poss, loom, dizzy coil etc. speaking from someone who has put a K reg engine into a D reg car! took me 3 months to do but did it in the end, after having to remove oil cooler, changing alternator bracket/belt, figuring out most of the wiring, dizzy etc just guess at the timing, i did, and it doesnt run too bad and its by far the easiest way, keep the whole dizzy assembly Edited July 23, 2007 by zowow Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jas-E 1 Posted July 23, 2007 my advice is to keep as much in there from the phase one as poss, loom, dizzy coil etc. just guess at the timing, i did, and it doesnt run too bad and its by far the easiest way, keep the whole dizzy assembly i would do that if i could..problem is i dont have the coil from the phase 1 car. I just got the bare engine with the altenator, starter and inlet manifold. I have kept the altenator and starter from the car as i know they run properly, and i did not disconnect anything from the inlet manifold..just unbolted it and moved it out of the way. il either just try get the distributor and cap from the phase 2 car and stick it on this and play with the ignition or just try modify the ignition lead as steve said. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zowow 0 Posted July 23, 2007 ahh i see fairplay i didn't get anything with my phase 2 engine either, although my phase one car was totally complete. Good luck with your project Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
