pugbliss 0 Posted June 25, 2007 Hi all, Last couple of days now when i set off in first and also changing into second there is a loud clanking/metal banging sound coming from near the bulk head, which i can sort of feel near me feet whilst driving. It doesnt do it when i am at a stand still and just rev the engine only when i pull off from a standing start. Ive checked the exhaust and its all fastened up properly but it does seem to hang low ( neavery noticed till recently) to the back bar or the subframe. My thoughts are the rear engine mount is passed it now. How much would it cost a garage to replace it as it looks a bugger to get to. Im presuming its mostly labour time?????? cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danpug 1 Posted June 25, 2007 I'd say it should be a job comfortably done in two hours, have you considered doing it yourself? Its a pain in the ass but really not a seriously difficult job. Or maybe another member could help out? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugbliss 0 Posted June 26, 2007 im open to any help offered but i have no room at my place to do it as i live on a main road.... but if another menber can help then id be very greatfull and of course i would pay them too. If not ill take it to the garage and get them to do it when i get my cambelt done. So im just looking at 2 hours labour and the cost of the mount????? or is there more to it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Richie-Van-GTi 70 2 Cars Posted June 26, 2007 I have a complete lower mount going spare, done very little mileage and ready to just bolt on so no need for presses etc. Just whip driveshaft out the way, undo 4x16mm bolts and the one through the mount and swap it over. PM me for details Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M@tt 77 Posted June 26, 2007 thats seems very similar to what i had , i could feel it through the floor and would make a reaally loud band. First thing to do is make sure the rear wishbone bolts are done up really tight! mine weren't and this was the cause. It felt and sounded like the exhaust hitting the bulkhead but it wasn't! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugbliss 0 Posted June 26, 2007 everything is as tight as it can be as far as i know. i can see the exhaust downpipe is very near the subframe bar thingy at the rear of the engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugbliss 0 Posted June 26, 2007 ive had a look under the car and found the engine mount (bush) which is inside a casing.... but there is what looks like a type of braket that is bolted through is....... can anyone explain how it all works???? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 242 3 Cars Posted June 27, 2007 The lower engine mount is fitted into the driveshaft intermediate bearing housing bolted to the back of the block. There is mean't to be a fork; which connects between this & the subframe. This should be solid at both ends with very little movement, 3mm each way maximum imo. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugbliss 0 Posted June 27, 2007 well i can say this moves about quite alot.... so is it worth while replacing this too when i get the mount done????? the round part of the fork in the pic...is that a bush too??? and if i buy a new fork from pug dealer will it come together???? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugbliss 0 Posted June 28, 2007 what i have done is this..... i put a jck under the downpipe and carefully jacked it up. Ths has moved the engine so ive shimmed the top right side engine mountand also the fork on the rear mount as this moves quite a bit.... will this hurt anything????? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted June 28, 2007 not sure about the shim, but considering its such a simple job to do, keep asking and somone will loan you their drive way for a morning. If the front of the car has not been apart for a while, a wire brush and breaker bar may also help to undo the lower hub pinch bolt. It really is an easy job. Shout if you want a step by step guide. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugbliss 0 Posted June 29, 2007 I phoned pug dealer today to ask how much it would be to fix????? they said i would need a compleate new engine mount assembly as the bush is integral with it...!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! this was gonna cost £121 plus VAT.. I DONT THINK SO!!! anyway, to sort of eleiviate the prom i though id shim up the mounts to stop it hitting the subframe... this i managed by pulling the engine forward and putting a shim on the tpo right mounting rubber and also by putting a shim under the rear mount bush holder fork, now this has solved it hitting problem but now when i accelarate i get a groning and grumbeling but only when i put my foot down....NOT when i come off the gas or just ideling... Does anyone know why???? have i tilted things forward TOO much?? cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Peetypug 5 Posted June 30, 2007 (edited) you havent solved the problem just kind of side stepped it the problem will always be there so it will have to be fixed at some stage in the near future i took my engine out yesterday and this was one of the first things that has to come off if you were to get the mount off Ritchie, it will save you a hell of a lot of trouble and it should take a max of 2 hours to replace, even for a novice mechanic if you know somebody with a drive do it there im sure there's plenty of people on here (me included) that will give a step by step guide to do even if it means you ringing one of us while you do it Edited June 30, 2007 by sorrentopete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Richie-Van-GTi 70 2 Cars Posted June 30, 2007 replied to your PM, just noticed your only in Bradford. If your really stuck and the car is driveable your more than welcome to bring it up here and I'll give you a hand swapping it over You will need to have to hand the following. 2 litres of 75/80 gearbox oil (total BV is best) Tub for catching the old gearbox oil. Funnel for refilling gearbox oil. 16 and 17mm sockets for removing pinch bolt and lower engine mount. 11mm spanner for releasing intermediate bearing. 36mm socket for removing driveshaft nut breaker bar for the driveshaft nut. heavy hammer for releasing anything stuck Jack Axle stands 21mm ring spanner for gearbox sump plug new copper washer for gearbox sump plug. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugbliss 0 Posted June 30, 2007 richie ive sent a pm to you. Thanks for the offer though.... ill hold you too it!!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Richie-Van-GTi 70 2 Cars Posted June 30, 2007 no worries, obviously if it comes up here you wont need the tools etc, just oil and sump washer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 242 3 Cars Posted July 2, 2007 It sounds like your pushed the engine to far forward & the driveshafts could be making the new noises. A new mount or a slightly uprated ones from the Xantia turbo for under £10 from Wida components in Bradford iirc. The lower mount pictured above shouldn't have any movement in imo, the engine will be able to move slightly within it but not by much through the lower mount which it bolts through on its forward end. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andrwn8304 0 Posted July 4, 2007 I've just replaced all 4 mountings on mine at a total of £21 inc V.A.T Got a mate to press the rear engine mounting bushes in for me tho Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugbliss 0 Posted July 6, 2007 im still waiting for Richie to send me the mount so im not driving the car at the moment incase i knacker anything up. Id appriciate a dummies step by step if anyone is feeling nice. cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 242 3 Cars Posted July 6, 2007 Id appriciate a dummies step by step if anyone is feeling nice.For replacing the lower mount? Easy; Loosen the drivers driveshaft hubnut & wheel bolts. Jack car & place on axle stands Drain gearbox oil Remove drivers wheel. Fully remove hubnut. Remove lower balljoint pinchbolt & balljoint from hub. Remove the driveshaft end from the hub. Loosen the two 11mm nuts on the L bolts on the intermediate driveshaft bearing housing / lower engine mount until you can turn the 180' so they clear the bearing. With a suitable drift or punch, hit the intermediate bearing collar on the driveshaft to drive it out of the bearing housing. Be careful when it starts to move as it will fall out of the gearbox when it clears the housing. Remove the driveshaft from the car. Remove the two bolts through the torque link pictured above & remove it from the car. Undo the four 17mm bolts that hold the housing onto the block. Cut the old rubber mount out with a hacksaw & carefully saw through the metal case that will be left in the mount. Remove the remains of the metal case. Press the new lower mount into the housing with the solid bars vertical in the mount when on the engine. Put it all back together in reverse order of above. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugbliss 0 Posted July 6, 2007 thanks for both replys lads (1 vie pm) pugtorque.... this may sound like a dumb question but why have the solid bars of the mount vertical in the mount???? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 242 3 Cars Posted July 6, 2007 pugtorque.... this may sound like a dumb question but why have the solid bars of the mount vertical in the mount????Thats how the mounts are supposed to be fitted from the factory to give maximum comfort afaik Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
