Head Gasket Woes

[Smigzy 0]

Hi guys, pretty new to the forum so try not to bite if this is in the wrong section. and yes i have trawled 20odd pages of the search LOL

 

Ive got a f reg 1.6 gti and i feel like im slowly replacing every part of it. It has been using quite a bit of water, which i thought was down to the leaks in the coolant system. I put some samco hoses on and a newer rad but there is still coolant loss which sounds like the cylinder head gasket to me. There is no water in the oil and no mayonaise in the filler cap, could this be down to a waterway/cylinder gap in the gasket? It ran ok, just using coolant, bit of an lumpy idle, but all of a sudden, big cloud of white smoke and sounded like it was running on 3 of four so i shut it down and havent driven it since.

 

This is my daily driver so i need to sort it sharpish.

 

Can some one give me a bit of advice please, do i....

 

1.Get a compression/leakdown test at a garage and if the gaskets definatley gone (which i think it is) get them to do it and test the head for trueness, head bolts, water pump, stem seals, cambelt and tensioners etc?

Ive heard this can be expensive... £300+??

 

2. Comp test and attempt it myself, safe in the knowledge that the head may be warped so might blow again in a very short time, and risk distubing the liners etc.

 

3. Buy good known engine and get someone to fit it? £500+? Expensive yes, but if im spending 300 already, why not get a 1.9 ?

 

can anyone recommend a good garage around manchester? I think i have read about skip brown in cheshire but it would be difficult to get it there, as i presume its undriveable as it might "hydrolock" if enough coolant goes in the cylinders. or do i just take it to a local place and get them to fix it?(not that mechanically experienced myself TBH)

 

I need this sorting in the next 48hours so any help is GREATLY appreciated.

 

cheers all in adv.

 

Ben

[welshpug 1,627]

is there any coolant left in the system?

 

have you replaced the coolant resevoir cap?

 

check that the thermostat is working, as well as the radiator fans, it may just be a weak expansion tank cap and a faulty fan/thermostat causing the engine to overheat and blow it all out.

[maturin23 10]

Maybe it's The Lord's way of telling you it's time for 16 valves?

 

You KNOW it's the way ahead

[Smigzy 0]

LOL, that would be a solution but its a bit out of my reach price wise at the moment, unfortunatley.

[Smigzy 0]

is there any coolant left in the system?

 

have you replaced the coolant resevoir cap?

 

check that the thermostat is working, as well as the radiator fans, it may just be a weak expansion tank cap and a faulty fan/thermostat causing the engine to overheat and blow it all out.

 

yes there is coolant left but not that much,

 

should i fill it up and let it run on the drive until the fan kicks in to test the thermostat? ive only heard the fan come once since ive had it and that was just as i switched it off.

 

does it sound driveable (just to a garage?)

 

thanks a lot!!!!

Edited May 8, 2007 by Smigzy

[Richie-Van-GTi 70 2 Cars]

any local garage will be capable of doing the head gasket, its very simple on the 8v. best option is just ring round and ask for prices and see who can do it quickly. Make sure they skim the head though, from the sounds of it, it will need it.

[Smigzy 0]

any local garage will be capable of doing the head gasket, its very simple on the 8v. best option is just ring round and ask for prices and see who can do it quickly. Make sure they skim the head though, from the sounds of it, it will need it.

 

cheers mate, should i get head bolts, water pump, stem seals, cambelt and tensioners done at the same time? any thing else i should add? and how much should i expect to pay.

 

thanks for all the help.

[Smigzy 0]

right, ive had the gasket done, head skimmed, new cambelt and pulley, head bolts, alternator belt, water pump and as in someone elses thread its down on power its also had new manifold bolts and springs so i dont think its blowing, the timing has been advanced beyond the original setting to compensate for the skim (i think thats right?)

 

It used to kangaroo up to about 2k then pull fine all the way to the redline (which i presumed normal for 205's), but now it does it to about 2000 -3000rpm and then feels gutless to the redline, but it does sound better than it used to.

 

The mechanic said run it for 500 miles and come back for another oil change as all the moisture might not be out and he'll have another look.

 

Would it be worth taking it to skip browns/mikeanics for a RR and a proper set up or do i just drive the 500 and hope it improves?

 

Thanks for any help!!

[Smigzy 0]

don't know if these help but...

 

CO = 2.81% vol

CO2 = 11.5% vol

HC = 633 ppm

o2 = 2.94% vol

Lambda = 1.028

[Rob_the_Sparky 9]

If it feels sluggish then it is probably retarded ignition timing. Do a search on setting it up on here, it isn't hard and can be returned to your start point if all goes wrong (never has on me though) as long as you mark it before you start.

 

Timing is normally set retarded for 95RON fuel - if they timed it for this then it wouldn't be surprising if it feels a bit off. Get some 98 or more RON fuel in it and re-do the timing. It is the most likely cause of this.

 

Rob

 

P.S. They must have skimmed it a mile for them to worry about changing the timing (mine is!) normally they only take a fraction off when skimming.

 

P.P.S. No need for a rolling road run to set-up a car - just time with a spanner and plenty of reading on here. See dodgy idle threads for the common things that need doing.

[steve@cornwall 100]

If it feels sluggish then it is probably retarded ignition timing. Do a search on setting it up on here, it isn't hard and can be returned to your start point if all goes wrong (never has on me though) as long as you mark it before you start.

 

Timing is normally set retarded for 95RON fuel - if they timed it for this then it wouldn't be surprising if it feels a bit off. Get some 98 or more RON fuel in it and re-do the timing. It is the most likely cause of this.

 

Rob

 

P.S. They must have skimmed it a mile for them to worry about changing the timing (mine is!) normally they only take a fraction off when skimming.

 

P.P.S. No need for a rolling road run to set-up a car - just time with a spanner and plenty of reading on here. See dodgy idle threads for the common things that need doing.

 

 

Bet it's been put together with the cam belt 1 tooth out- hence the different placing of the distributor. Mark its position and then rotate it fully anticlockwise- bet it gets better, but not quite right

Edited May 16, 2007 by steve@cornwall

[Rob_the_Sparky 9]

Good point...why didn't I think of that?!

[steve@cornwall 100]

Good point...why didn't I think of that?!

 

Maybe because you haven't bought 3 gtis with this problem in the last 5 years ?

[Smigzy 0]

thanks very much guys, gives me loads to go on.

[Smigzy 0]

so, am i right in thinking that if the belt is 1 tooth out then no matter what advance/retard you put on the dizzy it will still not be right, i therefore do a full anticlockwise rotation of the dizzy to get the 1 tooth correct, then try the advance/retard to get the timing spot on?

 

just want to make sure i understand what your saying so i dont break it properly .

 

to do the dizzy, is it cap off then the two bolts and the whole thing should turn round?

 

Could the vacuum advance be affecting the running? obv. i'll do dizzy first but is it something worth checking while im at it.

 

thanks again!

[steve@cornwall 100]

so, am i right in thinking that if the belt is 1 tooth out then no matter what advance/retard you put on the dizzy it will still not be right, i therefore do a full anticlockwise rotation of the dizzy to get the 1 tooth correct, then try the advance/retard to get the timing spot on?

 

just want to make sure i understand what your saying so i dont break it properly .

 

to do the dizzy, is it cap off then the two bolts and the whole thing should turn round?

 

Could the vacuum advance be affecting the running? obv. i'll do dizzy first but is it something worth checking while im at it.

 

thanks again!

 

slackening off the 2 x 11mm dizzy nuts and rotating the dizzy anti-clockwise as far as adjustment allows will show if the one tooth out idea is likely.If the cam belt is 1 tooth out, the only way to put it right is to remove the cam belt and re-time it properly. If the dizzy rotation makes it better- but not yet right, return it to the garage to sort- should have been right when it left, after all.

Edited May 17, 2007 by steve@cornwall

[Smigzy 0]

thats great steve. thanks for the clarification. i'll try that tonight and it will then be going back.

[Smigzy 0]

turns out it was a loose injector, drawing air in, they must have knocked it when putting the manifold back. running sweet as a nut now. Thanks very much for all your help.