Mi16 Not Starting

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

would i gain anything from fitting a number 4 pully on the inlet?

 

Sorry to hear about the bent valves dude. It's not that much of a fix with the head off. Whack the spring compressor on; collets out; springs off; valves out; (I guess 3 new valve guides being put in wouldn't go a miss?), and - I've been dying to say this a la Haynes manual......ahem.....refitting is the reverse of removal.

 

As for your above question, PeterT would give you a quick and honest answer on using a 4 instead of a 2 pulley. The offset wood-ruff keys he sent me do exactly that IIRC.

 

The reverse pullies idea was what the guys doing the Mi205 4x4 project thought they'd done, and it seemed a logical way to completely balls up the timing - IF you didn't check realignment. I'm glad it's not possible. (But check the numbers stamped on them anyway LOL).

 

You're not far from vroom now. I'm also guessing that these 3 bent valves were on different cylinders giving you 3 x zero comp readings. {A} You need to discover why/how they got bent, to make sure you don't balls it up again, and {B} you also need to establish why one cylinder gave you a reading but it was only 50psi? That still sounds low to me or I am I being a cheesehead on the last point?

Edited April 16, 2007 by DrSarty

[pugman211 0]

Gutted for you mate!!!! I had a sneaky feeling they were bent either that or the head gasket blown between 2 pistons. If you have bought this engine as a recon one, i'd be tempted to just give it back to the builder and source another one!

[Guest Roland]

I just had a nasty thought - you say the engine was built by someone else but they didn't install the cam belt.

If the engine was turned over without the belt on then there is a fair chance that some of the valves are now bent and won't seal.

Removing the cams and doing a compresion test will confirm the valves closing properly.

 

 

Well it's been frustrating but now it is good to know what the problem was.

 

It would be interesting to know how they got bent - the only thing I can think of would be turning the crank over without the cam belt on.

 

I would suggest that you get the engine builder to install the cam belt and make sure he uses crank and camshaft locking pins while he is doing it.

 

Hopefully you will be able to post a video/sound track, of the running engine soon!

[M_R_205 5 1 Cars]

wel i went over to the engine builders, it was my engine he recond, he thinks that when i cranked it the belt streched a tiny bit and as im using bigger valves they just and only just touched the pistons any way hes going o stick some new valves on, cut the cut outs on the piston 1mm or so larger to compensate for the larger valves, all labour free as me and my mates are there regular, hes a top guy id totaly recomend him to anyone in tyne and wear ( http://www.northernrebore.co.uk )

 

should get it back next week, in the mean time im goign to just tidy my engine bay and sort the inlet manifold out (carbs sit a bit too hight)

 

will update later

[pugman211 0]

Now thats what i call a happy ending and a spot on result!!!! As annoying this may have been for you though, just look at what you have learned about your knowledge! The best way to teach yourself in my mind is to give things a go yourself first!!! Spot on mate!!

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

Is it possible to have the inlet and exhaust cams swaped by mistake?

No, at least not imo.

 

The rotor arm will only fit to the inlet cam, the exhaust cam has a threaed hole for the PAS pump pulley so even if they were crossed when building the head you should notice it very quickly when you put it all together as the dizzy cap wouldn't fit on the exhaust side of the head.

 

Unlucky cause but at least its going to be fixed quickly & for the4 best price.

 

Graham.

[M_R_205 5 1 Cars]

quick update, turns outto be 4 bent valves but one is only a tiny bit bent thus the 50psi, and while he has the engine apart hes going to make the cut outs bigger on the pistons and weld some baffles into the sump, and as hes such a nice bloke, mark tdc on the inlet cam 8 valve dizzy fitting made easy

[M_R_205 5 1 Cars]

quick update for anyone interested, engien is still with the guy at northern rebore and it turns out that the `bent` valves are not the problem, bassicaly from what i can understand is the valve seats have been cut out so much that the valve no longer closes tight onto the seat, and normaly they would just fit new valve seats and be done, however due to how much metal has been removed by the porting they cant do this as the new seats may not be a good tight fit, i dont know how but they say they now have good compression on all the cylinders (80 psi while being turned by hand) however tas im using hydralic lifters it is making there life hell, supposedly solid lifters would be the best route but they are not cheap,

(if any one knows where i can get some and for how much id appricate it)

any way it will be redy to collect tomorrow lunch and im going to see how it goes like that, if it dosnt go then il have to go down the solid lifter route unles anybody else has any good ideas

Edited April 27, 2007 by M_R_205

[pugman211 0]

im not sure if thats a good thing or bad?? surely tho, if the head has lost too much metal from porting, would it not be easier to get a replacement head?????

[M_R_205 5 1 Cars]

yea the best thing to do would be to get my spare head ported and stick that on but 1, i cant afford it and 2, the head i have is supposed to be excelent, at the end of the day if needed i can just buy some solid lifters

Edited April 28, 2007 by M_R_205