Wiring Help Needed Please!

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

Socket AA is for the fuel pump & nothing else.

 

One of the wires runs from here to the tachymetric relay & then the other pin goes to the fuel pump connector, both via fuse 15. Power comes to it from the tachymetric relay & not out from the fusebox plug.

 

The tachymetric relay gets power directly from the shunt box in the engine bay & the ignition switched wire (32a) closes the relay connection to send the power to the fuel pump via plug AA & Fuse 15.

 

The coil & ignition module are both fed from the same plug on the fusebox as stated earlier in this topic.

 

Haved you got any power at the fuseboard at all? The main wires in from the shunt box plug into 706.

 

Graham.

[Mike Walker 0]

Socket AA is for the fuel pump & nothing else.

 

One of the wires runs from here to the tachymetric relay & then the other pin goes to the fuel pump connector, both via fuse 15. Power comes to it from the tachymetric relay & not out from the fusebox plug.

 

The tachymetric relay gets power directly from the shunt box in the engine bay & the ignition switched wire (32a) closes the relay connection to send the power to the fuel pump via plug AA & Fuse 15.

 

The coil & ignition module are both fed from the same plug on the fusebox as stated earlier in this topic.

 

Haved you got any power at the fuseboard at all? The main wires in from the shunt box plug into 706.

 

Graham.

 

I'll have a look for power at 706. btw, what's a 'shunt box'?

[Mike Walker 0]

706 is getting power fine

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

btw, what's a 'shunt box'?

The battery distribution box (black box on the slam panel) but it might be just a block on the end of the battery positiive lead in your car.

 

Are you getting 12v at the tachymetric relay? (thick brown wire #30 in this diagram)

 

Graham.

[Mike Walker 0]

The battery distribution box (black box on the slam panel) but it might be just a block on the end of the battery positiive lead in your car.

 

Are you getting 12v at the tachymetric relay? (thick brown wire #30 in this diagram)

 

Graham.

 

Got 12v to tachymetric relay

 

Bought a 2nd hand shunt box today as well to try although I can't see there being a problem with the old one as it's getting 12v out of every wire coming out of it.

[pugman211 0]

sorry as i know this isnt gonna help!!! but this problem has got me wondering what else could it be!!!! You must be sooooo stressed out over it!!!! Hope u sort it soon though!!!1

[Mike Walker 0]

sorry as i know this isnt gonna help!!! but this problem has got me wondering what else could it be!!!! You must be sooooo stressed out over it!!!! Hope u sort it soon though!!!1

 

LOL, a little bit yeah I'm really clutching at straws with the things i'm trying now but I just don't want to hand it over to an auto electrician until I know i've done everything I possibly can to fix it.

 

I have even been considering replacing the loom

 

Only two things i can think of now that have'nt been tried are immobiliser and loom.

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

If you've got 12v @ the tachymetric relay & fusebox(706) then the shunt box is fine imo, those are the two main connections on it.

 

I'd suspect the immobiliser, wasn't that mentioned originally?

 

I've got a similar puzzling problem atm on mine with the horn & heated rear window fuse/ power so I really want to see this fixed.

 

Graham.

[Mike Walker 0]

Immobiliser has been mentioned and was one of my first thoughts but I got the impression that because the immobiliser still functions as it did before i.e. when light flashes car won't turn over when immobiliser disabled car will turn over that it ruled it out?

 

Perhaps i'll have a look at disabling it tomorrow evening, erm I guess it would'nt be prudent to ask for tips on this on an open forum?

 

I wish I could offer you help and advice on yours Pugtorque as you've been a lot of help for me but i'm nowhere near qualified to do so!

[Mike Walker 0]

I've just booked it in to be recovered to S&B Auto Electrical in Bristol tomorrow morning so will update with any progress.

[Mike Walker 0]

Just had a call to say my car is FIXED!!!!!!!!!

 

Can't wait to get back in her and treat her like the slag she is

 

When I asked over the phone what the problem was the guy said 'pretty much everything mate' wiring, immobiliser, tachy relay etc. etc. so it's not surprising I couldn't fix it

[jim205GTI 3]

hey thats good news .............lets hope it doesn't put too big a dent in your wallet

[Mike Walker 0]

It was £200 to repair so not too bad. On closer inspection what he's done is removed the black wire going to the coil that I kept banging on about and connected it to the right place which is on top of the suspension turret

 

He's also bypassed some of the immobiliser as it was faulty which I was halfway through doing anyway.

 

He also says he did something to the wiring at the fuel pump, there is evidence that he's been there but I'm not sure they actually did anything.

 

So all in all i'd just connected one wire up wrong and couldn't be bothered to finish bypassing the immobiliser, at first I was pretty pissed off that it was this simple but thinking about it now i've learnt a lot about basic auto electrics and the specifics of the Pug system which I think is an invaluable education to have.

 

I was also annoyed that I hadn't gone with gut instinct about the immobiliser three months ago when the car first broke down.

 

Edit: Someone suggested to me that i'd never have the same confidence in the reliability of the car again now and i'd always be sketching about it breaking down, i've experienced this with other cars but somehow the Pug manages to keep instilling confidence in me regardless, the short drive to the station this morning reminded me what an epic car this really is

Edited May 4, 2007 by Mike Walker