Wiring Help Needed Please!

[Mike Walker 0]

My 205 doesn't start atm, i've tried most things to fix it and in the process have come across a black wire that looks like its been ripped off its connection at one end.

 

It goes behind the dash and upto the ignition barrell, it loops round the barrell and at this point the casing for the wire becomes clear so you can see inside. It then goes back into itself not into anything else.

 

Can anyone shed any light on wtf this could be?

[nick 3]

That sounds like a receiver for an imobiliser (the keyless keyfob type)

 

Nick

[pugman211 0]

I'd agree, check the rest of the car for a hidden immobiliser. U may need to remove it from the car in order to start it!

[Mike Walker 0]

That sounds like a receiver for an imobiliser (the keyless keyfob type)

 

Nick

 

Made a mistake it's not that, it's another black wire that goes up in the loom through a grommet into the instrument cluster thats not connected to anything the other end.

 

I really thought I might have found the problem then

 

The immobiliser still works as it always has done and the car will turn over but just not fire so I should have realised it wouldn't be that.

Edited April 1, 2007 by Mike Walker

[pugman211 0]

So when you turn the ignition on, is the fuel pump priming up?? that would rule out the immobiliser. Have you checked the plugs to see if a spark is present etc? Has anything been moved or knocked recently either??

[Mike Walker 0]

Sorry didn't realise this had been replied to. A few facts:

 

Fuel pump primes if I bridge tachy relay

Car will turn over but there is no spark from king lead off coil

There is no power to coil

There IS earth to coil

Coil readings for primary and secondary windings are fine

When car first went fuse in ignition amplifier was blown

I'm getting fuel to the rail but not out of injectors

I have changed ignition module three times, coil three times, tachymetric relay twice, dizzy & arm once, checked all earths, cleaned up and checked lead between dizzy and ign. module.

 

I have a new thread relating to the fuse board that i'll post a link to.

 

I'm buggered if I can work this one out so any more pointers would be mucho good.

 

Edit: Here is the thread about the fuseboard http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...c=73429&hl=

Edited April 11, 2007 by Mike Walker

[Richie-Van-GTi 70 2 Cars]

mike check how many live feeds your getting to tachy relay, it just happens when I am gfoing through my wiring schematics fuse 1 also feeds the tach relay wire 32a. Its a switched live from what Ive gathered and if you arent getting a switched live here then you will be getting issues elsewhere.

try running a direct switched live to back of fuse 1 so everything on that circuit energisies and see what happens then. Dont take it off another fuse line as it will blow the fuses no problem.

I suspect your problem may be one of the main live wires from ignition switch position 2 has broken down somewhere and its causing all your issues, possibly went when the fuse went in ignition amp. The black wire your are mentioning earlier, if its stripped bare so you can see inside it sounds like its shorted something out and is the cause of your grief. Trace it back to both ends and replace it. If its not connected to anything just cut it out and insulate the cut ends.

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

Like Richie says, the feed to the coil comes from the same plug on the fuseboard (plug E) & also splits to the ingition module. Fuseboard picture here with plugs marked out.

 

I suspect that the cause of your issues is either the plug has come out of the board or the wires from the ignition switch are broken. This would stop the injectors firing also afaik.

 

Also find plug BA on the fuseboard, pin 4 of this plug this sends the 12v to fuse #1. Wire 32a splits off the same pin as wire 2 on the later cars with the brown plugs under the dash. Unless the alarm / immobiliser is a decent install I'd be surprised to see the coil blocked if the starter & fuel pump are working.

 

Do any of the dash lights / guages work?

 

Graham.

[Mike Walker 0]

Cheers for the responses people, really feel like i'm getting somewhere now!

 

That picture of the fuseboard would be invaluable with a key for the rest of the plugs, sorry to be cheeky but do you have one?

 

I've already spent an awfull lot of time trying to trace the coil wire to the fuseboard and havn't quite found it yet so I appreciate that a lot

 

I get all lights on instrument cluster coming on as per usual but the rev counter doesn't bounce when I turn the car over.

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

That picture of the fuseboard would be invaluable with a key for the rest of the plugs, sorry to be cheeky but do you have one?

Fuseboard picture here with plugs marked out.

I get all lights on instrument cluster coming on as per usual but the rev counter doesn't bounce when I turn the car over.

Fuse # 1 on your car (1986 -1989 GTi) does rev counter & reversing light according to haynes so that would explain the lack of movement during cranking but not why it won't start imo.

 

Graham.

[Mike Walker 0]

Fuse # 1 on your car (1986 -1989 GTi) does rev counter & reversing light according to haynes so that would explain the lack of movement during cranking but not why it won't start imo.

 

Graham.

 

hmmm bugger.

 

When the car was running the rev counter worked but reverse lights didn't......

 

Just have a few uncertainties about the lead connecting dizzy to ign. module that would be good to get cleared up.

 

I've tested all connections for continuity and all are fine but the screening has a connection to one of the pins on the multiplug in the middle which in turn has a connection to one of the pins on the plug to ign. module. The screening isn't and as far as I know hasn't ever been connected to anything. I'm thinking that if it should be connected then it would be an earth so perhaps it should connect to the little metal bracket that holds the plug onto dizzy?? Or is this just a red herring?

 

I'm totally running out of ideas now and am tempted to just give up and pay a professional to have a look

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

Has the wiring for the reversing lamp got tangled up somewhere so its shorting out & blowing the fuse?

 

I've got the plug for the dizzy which has no screening at the dizzy end & they worked fine so I think thats a red herring.

 

Graham.

[Mike Walker 0]

Some points from this weekends tinkering:

 

-Oil temp gauge not working when ignition put in acc position

-Wire 32a to tachy relay NOT getting switched power

-Getting 12.5v to wire 1 back of ignition barrell with ignition off and switched

-Get 12.5v to wire 1 on fuseboard

-Get nothing to any pins of plug E

-12.5v to F2-F9 on fuseboard

-Nothing to F10-F14 on fuseboard

-Wire 75 under dash unplugged

-Wire 6J on fuseboard unplugged

-11.85v (switched) to pin 3 and 4 of plug BA

-Wired up a fused wire from stereo loom to F1, blew fuse straight away not sure if I should search for another switched live position?

-Not getting power to any of the pins on ignition module plug with ignition switched

-No relay second from right on fuseboard

-Can't find any problems with wiring being loose etc. to E or BA

 

Some of these points might not be of any relevance but I thought i'd post them anyway!

Edited April 15, 2007 by Mike Walker

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

Sounds to me like the fusebox is a big suspect.

 

AFAIK if the coil isn't getting any power the ignition module won't either, they are linked by a single wire on later inlet mounted coil cars & I'd assume its not that different on yours.

 

Oil temp guage won't move with the ignition on acc, it takes around five to ten minutes to start moving when driving. Short the wire against the block with the ignition on & see if it moves full scale.

 

I'd wire up a switched feed to plug E & see if the car runs with that in place rather than sending it to F1. The lack of any power to plug E is what I think is stopping the car running as it supplys power to wire #32a & wire #2 for the coil.

 

Graham.

[Mike Walker 0]

Sounds to me like the fusebox is a big suspect.

 

AFAIK if the coil isn't getting any power the ignition module won't either, they are linked by a single wire on later inlet mounted coil cars & I'd assume its not that different on yours.

 

Oil temp guage won't move with the ignition on acc, it takes around five to ten minutes to start moving when driving. Short the wire against the block with the ignition on & see if it moves full scale.

 

I'd wire up a switched feed to plug E & see if the car runs with that in place rather than sending it to F1. The lack of any power to plug E is what I think is stopping the car running as it supplys power to wire #32a & wire #2 for the coil.

 

Graham.

 

You are a star for keeping with me on this one!!

 

I'm on a course all week but will source another fuseboard ready to pick up on the weekend if needs be and report back my findings.

 

When I say oil temp gauge isn't working I mean the warning light on it does not light up like the rest do..

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

When I say oil temp gauge isn't working I mean the warning light on it does not light up like the rest do..

It doesn't normally light up iirc.

 

Mine doesn't anyway.

 

Graham.

[pugman211 0]

found this on Ebay if its any help.

 

Baz

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/peugeot-205-main-fus...1QQcmdZViewItem

[Mike Walker 0]

found this on Ebay if its any help.

 

Baz

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/peugeot-205-main-fus...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

Top find, cheers

[jim205GTI 3]

Mike i went to a pug and cit breakers in bristol yesterday and they had loads of stuff............. good prices awell could be worth looking there........... their based in warmley on tower road

 

Might be worth a butchers in there for a fuse board

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

Fuse boxes are diffferent for non injection so that might not be the right one for your car. Best to get one from a GTi imo.

 

I'd get the newest one you can also.

 

Graham.

[Mike Walker 0]

Mike i went to a pug and cit breakers in bristol yesterday and they had loads of stuff............. good prices awell could be worth looking there........... their based in warmley on tower road

 

Might be worth a butchers in there for a fuse board

 

Cheers Jim, did give them a call on Saturday but said they didn't have anything in for GTi so i've bought the one from ebay just need to pick it up tonight and give it a go it's only a fiver so no big deal if it's not the right one

[Mike Walker 0]

Installed the new fuseboard last night, only difference is that it has the space for but no connection to the plug with wires 75 and 75a on top right of board. As these run to the tachy relay and ignition module off the top of my head then it's not going to work!!

 

There was however some joy in the fact that I could hear relays on the board clicking into action when the key's turned to acc which I couldn't hear with the other board.

 

I plan to grab a board off here ASAP and have another go

[Mike Walker 0]

Installed a bona fide GTi fuseboard tonight and still nothing - I have now lost the will to live

[Mike Walker 0]

Just discovered that there's also no power to socket AA on fuseboard which is also vital to starting system so I now have no power to tachymetric relay, coil, ignition module, and fuel pump - nice

[Mike Walker 0]

Quick question guys if you will, does the discovery that I have no power at the start of the circuit mean that I can stop fecking about with changing the actual starting components? Does it mean there must be some kind of short in the section of the loom between battery power and fuse board?

 

Cheers