Dropping/lowering Radiator... & Relocating Battery

[Longfield 0]

... can anyone please point me in the right direction for an idiots guide to doing these two things? I've done a search and either it doesn't exist [unlikely] or I can't see for looking [most likely!]

 

thank you!

Longfield

[GLPoomobile 958]

... can anyone please point me in the right direction for an idiots guide to doing these two things? I've done a search and either it doesn't exist [unlikely] or I can't see for looking [most likely!]

 

thank you!

Longfield

 

 

Dropping radiator:

Pick up a radiator, make model not important, then when you have it at the desired height, release your grip. The radiator will then drop due to gravity. Make sure you do not release it above your toes as expletatives may result.

 

Relocating Battery:

Take one battery, make/model not important, then move it to a location other than where you found it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sorry Couldn't help myself

(I make myself laugh, and that is all that is important)

[willxs 0]

 

Think DreamWeaver on here got some brackets from the likes of B&Q? think in his sig he'll have a link to pictures of his install, should be able to find some there.

[vern 0]

if you want the ready made route try Des developments, no idea on price and not used them, just saw it when looking at there website

 

http://www.des-developments.com/tuning/products.html

[Baz 421]

Relocating the battery's as simple as it sounds, running the relevant cables/wires, a decent gauge i might add, back to where thy need to be, and might be an idea to stick it in a battery box.

 

Dropping radiator:

Pick up a radiator, make model not important, then when you have it at the desired height, release your grip. The radiator will then drop due to gravity. Make sure you do not release it above your toes as expletatives may result.

 

Relocating Battery:

Take one battery, make/model not important, then move it to a location other than where you found it.

Sorry Couldn't help myself

(I make myself laugh, and that is all that is important)

 

PMSL!! It just had to be done didn't it!!

[Robsbc 0 1 Cars]

if you want the ready made route try Des developments, no idea on price and not used them, just saw it when looking at there website

 

http://www.des-developments.com/tuning/products.html

 

That bracket costs around the £120 mark

[tri_longer 25]

I'll try to get my mate to takes some piccies of ours, but we have recently done ours as part of a rebuild.

 

Pop to B&Q and buy 2 600mm radiator wall brackets.

 

Armed with a drill, angle grinder and copious nuts and bolts (you don't need many but I always seem to lose loads)

 

Bolt the two radiator brackets together so you have a very long 'U' shape. Make sure that the deepest sections are bolted together, this will form the base that holds the rad.

 

Grind of the pegs on the bottom of the car radiator.

 

With all the bumper gubbins removed, you can use the metal bar across the front of the car between the two wings to mount the newly made bracket to.

 

Mount one side of the bracket you have made to the front of this bar (3-4 short bolts should be enough).

 

voila, custom made and certainly a lot cheaper that £120+vat

[Longfield 0]

I'll try to get my mate to takes some piccies of ours, but we have recently done ours as part of a rebuild.

 

Pop to B&Q and buy 2 600mm radiator wall brackets.

 

Armed with a drill, angle grinder and copious nuts and bolts (you don't need many but I always seem to lose loads)

 

Bolt the two radiator brackets together so you have a very long 'U' shape. Make sure that the deepest sections are bolted together, this will form the base that holds the rad.

 

Grind of the pegs on the bottom of the car radiator.

 

With all the bumper gubbins removed, you can use the metal bar across the front of the car between the two wings to mount the newly made bracket to.

 

Mount one side of the bracket you have made to the front of this bar (3-4 short bolts should be enough).

 

voila, custom made and certainly a lot cheaper that £120+vat

 

Tri-Longer if you could please show photos that would really help me. I'm a complete numpty when it comes to this stuff and so photos would be excellent an excellent resource to have.

 

I'd like to also thank GL Poomobile for a very funny and completely useless response. I loved it! :-)

[tri_longer 25]

Tri-Longer if you could please show photos that would really help me. I'm a complete numpty when it comes to this stuff and so photos would be excellent an excellent resource to have.

 

leave it with me i'll get him to take some piccies

 

Cheers.

[Ren 0]

I've lowered my radiator recently using Dreamweavers topic info here http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...c=58325&hl=

 

Basically as mentioned above, use two household rad brackets, bolt them together to the required length, I then drilled 2 holes to fit the original rubber mounts in so that grinding the pegs off the bottom of the rad wasn't needed. Then using 2 L brackets I mounted it all in where it was needed. You might also have to lower the metal water pipe in your wheel arch so a couple of simple brackets should do the trick.

 

Hope this is of some use.

 

Ren.

[tri_longer 25]

I've lowered my radiator recently using Dreamweavers topic info here http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...c=58325&hl=

 

Basically as mentioned above, use two household rad brackets, bolt them together to the required length, I then drilled 2 holes to fit the original rubber mounts in so that grinding the pegs off the bottom of the rad wasn't needed. Then using 2 L brackets I mounted it all in where it was needed. You might also have to lower the metal water pipe in your wheel arch so a couple of simple brackets should do the trick.

 

Hope this is of some use.

 

Ren.

 

Only thing I would say with the L brackets is make sure they are very sturdy, we tried this approach and the L brakcets were not solid enough and the whole thing was far to bouncy and would have bent over a short period of time. Good solid stainless should do the job.

 

Agree with the drilling of holes for the pegs instead of grinding..................i just enjoy grinding

[taylorspug 7]

There are some pictures in my sig of my radiator brackets if its any use.

 

EDIT: Ive also got my battery in the boot, so there should be a few pictures of that in there aswell.

Edited March 26, 2007 by taylorspug

[Longfield 0]

There are some pictures in my sig of my radiator brackets if its any use.

 

EDIT: Ive also got my battery in the boot, so there should be a few pictures of that in there aswell.

 

yes please!

[Longfield 0]

Hi all,

 

today, being the nice day it's been weather wise, for the first time in my life I've decided to be brave and have a play with my pride & joy. But, as a result, I now have more questions that I hope you don't mind me asking.

 

The Radiator Questions:

1. Am i correct in thinking that the whole of the radiator and the fan assembly aren't actually screwed into anything [such as chassis] to make it stable and that it only sits on the bottom cross member as such? Cause this would appear to be the case with mine.

 

2. As a result of what i've found above, to remove the radiator, it is just a case of then undoing the two top hoses at the top of the radiator and the two pipes I have attached to my oil cooler and then just lifting the whole thing up and out? Of are there other parts I need to disconnect?

 

3. Is there any set process I need to follow to ensure I a] dont make a bloody great big mess and b] I drain the coolant properly before disconnecting the above hoses I identified?

 

4. What do you think of my idea to drill through the spot welds that hold the bottom brace on, then just reposition that brace lower down through welding on steel extension arms either side of the radiator? This way the whole fan and radiator will still sit as one complete unit just lower down. Is this basically what other's are doing when they use the radiator brackets from B&G etc?? See picture for the lower brace i'm referring to. You'll also see why I want to lower my oil cooler as it's completely hidden by the bumper.

 

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p9/Edal...ontsmall1-1.jpg

 

Battery Questions:

1. Off the positive terminal of my battery I have 3 wires. 1 goes into the alternator, 1 goes into aq rectifyer[?] - a little black box positioned behind the passenger side headlamp and another '+30' goes into the main wiring loom. My question is: what is the +30 wire? Could that be for the old alarm that used to be on the car before i took it off the road? [see picture for what I mean] - http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p9/Edal...e/Positive1.jpg

 

2: Is this a rectifyer? What does it do?? http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p9/Edal...e/Rectifyer.jpg

 

3: Looking at the above pictures - what sort/size wiring is this on my battery terminals? Is it the same guage for positive terminal as well as negative terminals?

 

4: My neighbour thinks my wiring is a mess in my engine bay - to look at it i'd say his right - but, is he right that live wires should be red and earth wires green and yellow?

 

I'm sorry for so many questions but i really am ignorant about all of this as i've been to scared in the past to do anything at all with my pride and joy in case i cock it up. But now... i'm just desperate to learn. So please forgive my [probably] extremely simple questions.

 

Longfield.

Edited March 31, 2007 by Longfield

[nick 3]

One problem you might encounter if you drop the fan/rad' shroud, is that it it won't locate middle of the slam panel, which allows it to flex and you might not be able to shut the bonnet very well.

 

Nick

[inferno 1]

What yr refering to as a 'rectifier' is the underbonnet fuse box. also used as a shunt box. fuses for fans iirc, although ive fiddle in my car and it now includes a fuel pump and ignition fuse. the other wire may be the ignition feed.

[frodo_monkey 0]

A small guide to rad lowering (inc pics) can be found here:

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...68270&st=60

 

About half way down... I did it in Feb for the princely sum of £15!

[taylorspug 7]

One problem you might encounter if you drop the fan/rad' shroud, is that it it won't locate middle of the slam panel, which allows it to flex and you might not be able to shut the bonnet very well.

 

Nick

 

I had the same problem as this with mine, so had to weld some ribs into my slam panel to strengthen it. Again pictures can be found in the link in my sig...

[Ren 0]

Plus the locator pegs for the front grill go in the fan cowling so you will have to make those as well.

 

Ren.

[Dream Weaver 2]

I've had no problems with my setup since doing it - click the link in my sig for full pics etc.