Spare Engine Storage Problem

[Grim.Badger 15]

I bought a low milage rebuilt XU9JA engine from ALEX last year to replace my smoke factory. Due to cash flow problems (more flowing out than in) its just been sat in my garage since. The engine is more or less bare; it has no cambelt, water pump, cam cover, sump, oil pump, inlet or exhaust manifolds, although I do have the camcover and sump they just need fitting.

 

I took the cover off yesterday and noticed that the crankshaft is developing a surface rust where the sprocket normally attaches There may also be a bit of rust on the outside of the crankshaft bearings. The engine has also developed that white powdery corrosion product (zinc oxide?) on its main exterior surfaces.

 

I'm worried that the rust will damage the engine when its finally started or the pistons might seize in the liners. If I posted pictures could anyone say if its too far gone or is it probably okay? I though of cleaning it up with a wire brush (obviously not on any bearing surfaces etc) and coating it in oil; would this be a good idea? I would also like to fit a duff water pump and my old cambelt and check that the pistons still move easily, so has anyone got a duff water pump or is this a stupid idea?

 

Sorry for the noob type questions but I'm worried I've scrapped the engine through neglect

[Richie-Van-GTi 70 2 Cars]

Ive used engines that have stood outdoors for a year or two. Clean it up, a a coat of oil on bearing etc is a good idea. Last engine I used that had stood 3 years I filled the bores with 2 stroke oil and cranked it by hand a few times to remove any surface debris etc then just give it a good clean. Didnt do any harm at all.

[Dream Weaver 2]

My engine had rust on the tensioners where the cambelt had sat on them for a few months while it was unused.

 

A few revolutions got rid of it all, though with your rust being on the crankshaft it is more concerning.

 

What do you need to get the engine fitted?

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

I know what you mean about a bit of surface rust, keeping anything mild steel even in a garage goes rusty if its unprotected. I found I had to keep spraying engine parts (about once a month with WD40 to keep the rust off)

The spring is coming up so the garage will be less damp not giving you the problem you have now.

If you've left the bearing caps on then the important part of the crank will be fine, so you havn't scrapped it.

The parts you need you can swap from your smoky engine. So apart from a cam belt a few service items you should be good to go.

I remember a couple of bearings were worn so if I were you I'd fit a new set while its in bits.

The oil pressure was fine when I ran it (the light never came on but it wasn't great).

a full set of Mains, Big ends & Thrust bearings cost about £60 in total but should push that oil pressure gauge to a healthy engine position when you get it fitted.

[Grim.Badger 15]

Cheers for the replys

 

ALEX - I have been planning on a new set of bearings; they're the main reason why I haven't fitted it yet as it adds up to a little too much

I took one on the shells off to check and the bearing surfaces are still fine but I'll give it a coat of oil anyway

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

If you need to borrow an engine hoist just let me know.

It's stored at my mums (where you picked the engine up from).

[Grim.Badger 15]

If you need to borrow an engine hoist just let me know.

It's stored at my mums (where you picked the engine up from).

 

Cheers I may well take you up on that offer.

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

Cheers I may well take you up on that offer.

 

If you do borrow it to return the favour could you return the hoist to my House in Huddersfield?

My mum has been nagging me to take it out of her garage for a while now.

Edited February 23, 2007 by ALEX

[Grim.Badger 15]

If you do borrow it to return the favour could you return the hoist to my House in Huddersfield?

My mum has been nagging me to take it out of her garage for a while now.

 

Sure, that's no problem

[Rob_the_Sparky 9]

Just keep everythig oiled and you should be OK. although WD-40 isn't what I'd use. It is good at removing thicker oils and evaporates leaving metal exposed. Better to use something heavier as it will last MUCH longer and drop a bit of oil in the bores and turn it over.

 

If you can get teh cam cover and sump on. Even if only loosely they will stop crap getting into the engine.

[lagonda 41]

In 1976 I bought a 1947 Riley RMB which had been off the road since 1963, and had covered few miles since the oil was last changed, in 1959. There was no exhaust after the manifold and no air cleaner/manifold on the (SU) carburettors, meaning the only protection for the cylinders, unless both valves were shut, was the carb butterflys. That car lived in the garden most of the time with only the top of the bonnet and plastic sheets (which frequently blew away) to protect it. The sides of the egine were exposed as no wings or side panels were fitted for much of the time.

I did turn the engine over occasionally & doubtless squirted some Redex down the bores. Little compression was evident, however I got it started in 2000 and it ran fine! Interestingly, the missing compressions had evidently returned presumably as light rust was burnt/worn from the valve seats.

So I wouldn't worry too much!