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Henry Yorke

Xu10j/2te With Tt Manifold And T3+?

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inferno

the hotter the gasses are in the turbo from the exhuast the better, so as close to the head as possible.

 

some good heat wrap or maybe a ceramic coating could be used?

 

tbh i dont see why you cant use the 16v style manifold on an 8v, and then mod it later if u go 16v.

 

also these manifold would be a lot neeter and easier to build if the branches didnt need to be equal lenth. and tbh i see no need for it. so long as all branches enter the collecter at a decent angle so as not to cause turbulence theres going to be no noticable difference in power to a tuned manifold of same size piping. this may not be the car in a NA car.

what dimensions did u need from me ant? im heat wrapping it this weekend...

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Ant

Hi inferno,

 

think i'm gonna go the 16v style route. Its tight enough in the engine bay, so if there are no major issues, im gonna buy the pipe this weekend.

 

Can you give me

1) - diameter of the pipes

2) - thickness of the manifold flange, i presume its about 1.5 cm ?

 

Cheers

 

Ant

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Malachy

i finally decided on my turbo i will be using a td05 16g i have been uhming and aahing for ages on what to use but this will give me headroom for upto 380bhp (i plan to possibly do a 4wd conv)

now i just need to get my welder out and start tiging up the 16v manifolds :)

 

as inferno said tuned lenths do not matter so much with turbos ofc its nice to have them but its not as important as an n/a, your better off trying to keep the pipes short and with few bends, it seems many tuners strive to get lenghs equal but end up with tonnes of bends that slow the exhaust velocity down.

 

turbos most important thing is gas velocity this is increased by heat, this also means having your manifold branches too large will slow down gas flow too much and hinder performance.post turbo you need it to be as free flowing as possible to prevent back pressure stalling/slowing down spool up, ill be manufactuing a 2 3/4" system with a custom cat/decat that bolts in and out easily on 2 flanges just for mots

 

i will be using 1.5 inch pipe for my branches going 4-1 with a frunstrum cone collector i will be taking lots of pics too as i build since i just got my new digi cam. the manifold plate i am using is 10mm thick i think 15mm is a bit overkill.

 

I have all the material i need but i just got to finish decorating a room now since i promised i would not work on the car until i finished the room :D

 

http://www.mez.co.uk/turbo4.html this mapge is worth a quick read on manifold fab and design for a diy'er and explains about pulses etc how you want the gasses to enter the turbo etc and a few other bits, its on a v8 SBC but principles are the same.

Edited by Malachy

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TEKNOPUG

There was an Aussie guy who ran a 1.9 8v with a T3 and a chargcooler - hitting 300bhp with that. For more than 250bhp I really think that it's worth investing in some proper engine management so that you can adjust the boost for different revs and in different gears - will make the car so much more driveable.

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Ant

I'm only really going down this route because i blew my standard turbo.. Its not worth the cost of a rebuild when i can get a t3 for just over £100 notes and the manifold shouldnt cost me much. The only other money i need to pay out is for an ECU remap and bigger injectors. Anything over 180bhp would be good. :)

 

I'm off to a metal place tomorrow if my boss lets me finish early, so am gonna price up the pipe :D

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Issam
its also worth noting that the 205parts manifold is a T2 (T25) flange, not a T3 flange.

Not really an Issue.

I can get a Garrett GT3076R (0.73 A/R) internally gated with a T25 flange.HKS anti-surge housing and all.With a shot of nos your looking @ high 10's in the quarter no problem.

 

top1.jpg

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Swazy

Dear Henry,

 

ask my friend Jan Bösem he´s building several turbos with 8v and 16v´s

 

Jan´s 16V Turbo or take a further look at his site Terantex

 

Ans of course he can speak english :D

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