Turbo Wear

[bales 1]

I have just got my new engine back today and was having a look at the compressor side of the turbo and found that the blades were all rough and serrated. Is this a big problem as in will the turbo need reconditioning, I know that the turbo will still work fine but does this lose you a fair amount of efficiency and will it not produce the same boost?

 

Looks like it has been run without a filter for a while and ingested a nice diet of grit for a while, or is this normal turbo wear? I have never had a turbo car before so I don't really know whether this is bad or not. I have some pictures I took as you can see below.

 

 

Cheers

 

Alex

[sonofsam 5]

If it has been run without a filter, it will of sucked up all that the inner wheel arch can throw up at it

 

I dont think that is normal wear mate, mine certainly does not look like that, and could possibley of done 80k miles.

[Doof 11]

I'd have to say that it needs repairing. As i'm sure you know turbo's are balances very accurately and this must have disrupted the balancing leading the increased wear on bearings and worst case scenario is that the thing goes bang and gets ingested into the engine destroying that too.

 

For peace of mind i'd certainly get it checked out by a professional.

[Henry Yorke 269 3 Cars]

Mine had a brand new (not reconned) turbo on it and it looked like this

[sonofsam 5]

Evilbay ~ rebuilt T3, under 100 notes! Coming this week!

Just thought I would add that , as opposed to a rebuild, wich Im not opposed to obviously.

[bales 1]

Ahh crap

 

The only thing with a new turbo is that it will need new manifold, downpipe, inductio routing etc....which I already have specific to the engine.

 

Their is a turbo reconditoining place near me that charges £250 for reconditioning so I may investigate them.

 

So is the general consensus not to drive it like this and see how it goes, or is there a chance it could be so out of balance that it knackers the bearings and destroys itself and the engine as Doof mentioned.

[sonofsam 5]

I see your point mate about a new unit.

 

Sounds like a fair price, would definately get them to have a look.

 

Well, if you put it in and drive it, and it does so bad sh*t, it's going to have to come back out again, so would get it looked at and rebuilt before you put your engine in to be honest.

[inferno 1]

is that a standard xu turbo unit? looks knackered mate, but ive got a goodun still if u want a quick bolt on replacement? 60 delivered?!

[bales 1]

is that a standard xu turbo unit? looks knackered mate, but ive got a goodun still if u want a quick bolt on replacement? 60 delivered?!

 

 

May well do mate will drop you a PM in few days when I have had a better look at it and see what my options are.

[Henry Yorke 269 3 Cars]

Considering the RRP on the T25 units is over a grand new, that seems a pretty good price! Mine came direct from Garrett and was still over half that, via someones staff discount that worked there!!! It is the outer casings on these that often go, hence there are two designs; an early and a later strengthened one

[Mikey S 29 1 Cars]

Considering the RRP on the T25 units is over a grand new, that seems a pretty good price! Mine came direct from Garrett and was still over half that, via someones staff discount that worked there!!! It is the outer casings on these that often go, hence there are two designs; an early and a later strengthened one

 

on what year did that design change happen?

i have an 1992 and a 1995 unit that are different to each other.

[jacobs53 0]

yeah there are two different T25's fitted to the XU10J2TE, they both look the same but the oil return location is different (on the turbo itself)

 

Might be an idea to upgrade the manifold and turbo, if your thinking of spending some cash on a standard turbo. When you hit 0.8bar its like a brick wall, and the inlet temperatures rocket due to the small compressor.

 

How about a TT manifold and adequate turbo?

 

cheers lee

[Henry Yorke 269 3 Cars]

on what year did that design change happen?

i have an 1992 and a 1995 unit that are different to each other.

 

Not sure myself

 

Is anyone on here actually running a TT manifold and a bigger turbo on an XU10J2TE engine? - maybe a separate post to save a hijack!

[sonofsam 5]

Brick wall @ 0.8bar? never felt like that at all @ 1.5bar! For the few mad moments I was at it

[Henry Yorke 269 3 Cars]

The thing you gain is low down torque with a smaller turbo versus lag but bigger bhp with a larger one. The brick wall comes at 1.0 bar with the standard ECU, but this is due to the boost control in the Motronic 3.2 as opposed to the turbo itself

[inferno 1]

if it feels like your hitting a brick wall on boost check your spark plug gaps:P higher boost = smaller gap

 

are the change in turbo design not to do with the engine being RGY/RGX ? as i noticed this with my RGX engine that the turbo looked bigger externally. both my RGY's have the same turbos. only problem i found with the turbos was the flatting off over 5.5k, bigger turbo and better flowing manifold, should give a bit longer on boost as itll flow more and better.

 

edit: really wouldnt bother spending 250 on a rebuild when that would buy u a tt manifold, and u can pick up a t3 for under a ton as sam says. buy a second hand t25 to get u on the road, then save your pennys for when the boost bores u... it shouldnt do for a while tho but if u do decide to rebuild your turbo, get step seals fitted to it!!!! not all of them smoke at idle, but step seals will prevent it. also is that 250 plus parts? as when i was quoted for my t34 rebuild, it was 300 including bearings/seals ect but not including shafts/wheels/housings.

Edited February 18, 2007 by inferno

[jacobs53 0]

do any of you have boost gauges installed? Do a test... get the turbo running at 1.0bar just below the ecu theshold, and run the car in 3rd, 4th or 5th gear from 2000rpm til the rev limiter at full throttle. You will notice the boost will hold at 1bar constant until around 4500rpm when it slowly peals down to 0.8-0.7bar... you will feel the engine lack some power as the boost drops - obvesiously!

 

This boost drop is because of the small turbo and poor manifold - more with regards to the manifold. The exhaust gas pressure cannot leave the turbo fast enough due to the small turbine wheel, this excess pressure is then built up inside the manifold... on the overlap period the hot exhaust gas in forced back into the cylinder and wasting available filling space, hence the drop in power at high engine speeds.

 

I must of spent around 6 hours solid dyno time, finding out that 175 -180 bhp is the limit of the standard engine and the standard turbo and manifold will not enable any more power than this. Sometimes the boost will increase to 1.5bar for a second at low engine speeds, but be strangled again by the crap manifold design.

 

If I had my chance again, go and find a better manifold and slightly larger turbo. I think you'd even see over the 200bhp barrior with a better manifold, and the ability to run slightly more overlap

 

lee

[TEKNOPUG 3]

should be easily repairable

Edited February 19, 2007 by TEKNOPUG

[Ant 2]

My Turbo is on the way out i think..

 

Its spewing oil into the intercooler pipes, so i think it needs a refurb..

 

Can it be a DIY job

 

I found this on Ebay

 

Ebay link

 

Says its a DIY job..

 

Anyone tried these to fix a turbo ?

 

Cheers

[sonofsam 5]

Here's a guide on how to check it mate http://members.aol.com/mr2mkii/turbo.htm

 

There seems to be plenty of guides on the internet too, of how to rebuild a turbo with that kit

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/178185

 

Doesnt look too tricky, but may mean a bit more down time on your car.

Edited February 22, 2007 by sonofsam