boldy205 74 Posted February 17, 2007 Hi, i have just been out to finish preping and then started to spray my alloys. As the primer dryed it formed a cracked crazy paving type effect, almost like the wheel had silicone or something on the surface. I wipedd the wheel down with thinners and tryed again, but i still had the same problems. Could it be the fact its cold (ish) and damp? Or is the thinners just not shifting any silicone type substance (ie. back to black that the previous owner may have put on the tyres as the crazing is mainly round the edge of the wheel.) Does anyone know of something better that thinners for cleaning, any pro paint people got any ideas? Thanks Matt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jer309GTi 3 Posted February 17, 2007 (edited) Are they my old wheels? Wasn't the outside rim polished, so maybe the paint isn't sticking to the polished bit? Just a guess, you've got a lot more experience of painting things than I have Nitro-mors the buggers, like to see anything stay on after that Edited February 17, 2007 by Jer309GTi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattmk1 0 Posted February 17, 2007 If its cracking then its likely that its either reacting with any previous paint, or the wheels are still damp from when you wiped them down with the thiners. Out of curiosity, what paint are you uising? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve@cornwall 100 Posted February 17, 2007 Isn't the crazy-paving effect usually paint applied too thickly? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugpete1108 62 1 Cars Posted February 17, 2007 i would say its reacting with either the previous paint or the thinners , the only real choice is to sand it right back and start again , maybe useing a barrier paint between them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted February 18, 2007 Yeah agree with Pete. Wet flatting them down with a warm soapy solution should get rid of any deposit's, be it dirt or grease. and just clean off afterwards with water, and dry thourougly. Had heard somewhere that it's not advisable to spray paint in the cold/damp (winter) conditions doesnt the paint 'Bloom'? Bloomin paint hehe lol! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Edp 67 3 Cars Posted February 18, 2007 I was going to do this with a set of speedlines I have but I ended up using a local powder coating place in Mitcham. They only charge £30 a wheel and they bead blast them first to remove all the old laquer and paint. The powder coat route is also very durable. In your case, like already said, the paints have reacted with each other, I had it happen when spraying some bits a few years back, wheres paintguy when you need him?! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boldy205 74 Posted February 18, 2007 think i will try and warm it all up inside, or just wait till the summer!! (try and sneak them in onto the kitchen table!!) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jshep205gti 3 Posted February 19, 2007 Give the wheels a proper clean and start again. I know giving it a go yourself is a good shout, but why not get a bodyshop to spray 4 wheels for you? Got mine done for £40 a wheel...in VW magic black!! Pics...http://www.grindnshine.co.uk/portfolio.php?id=20 That way you can demand they are high quality and you can have exactly what colour etc you want. I am aware this doesnt help your situation!! I thought £40 a wheel was cheap as ya like though! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boldy205 74 Posted February 19, 2007 thanks for the replies everyone. I am concidering going down the professional route now as i have been told its probabaly the old paint reacting with the new. Just hacked off now after spending £25 on paint! thats a night in the pub!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timmsy19 3 Posted February 19, 2007 i would say its reacting with either the previous paint or the thinners , the only real choice is to sand it right back and start again , maybe useing a barrier paint between them. pete have you managed to sort out the wheels you got from michael? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paintguy 0 Posted February 19, 2007 wheres paintguy when you need him?! Working all the hours God sends to get a customers car ready on time I know I'm a bit late, but I agree that it'll more than likely be the solvents in the freshly applied paint seeping down and lifting the existing stuff. Not a nice situation to be in Best remedies are stripping back to bare metal (or at least a sound, stable layer of paint), or applying a water based isolator, like good old Barcoat Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Edp 67 3 Cars Posted February 20, 2007 Working all the hours God sends to get a customers car ready on time Glad to see your being kept busy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boldy205 74 Posted February 21, 2007 thanks paint guy. this barrier paint you mention, is is available in rattle cans? also does it make a differance to the paint if i use water based (barrier paint) on top of cellulouse based paint(as i presume this is whats on the wheels at the moment as they have been painted buy the previous owner), and then put cellulose paint on top of that (i presume its cellulose i have in my rattle cans?! i bought if from a motor factor) Thanks for your time Matt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paintguy 0 Posted February 21, 2007 I've never seen Barcoat in a rattle can, but there may be something similar available. Try ringing your local bodyshop/paint supplier, tell them your situation, and tell them you're looking for an isolator. Barcoat can go over any resonably sound surface, and be overpainted with just about anything. The only stipulation is that you don't sand it, or there's a risk of breaking through it (clearly it can't isolate the layers if you've sanded it off ) It's not the ideal situation, which would be stripping them back, but it may get around the problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boldy205 74 Posted February 22, 2007 thanks for the info. i will try to get my hands on some of this isolator paint. Thanks Matt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djinuk 2 Posted February 23, 2007 noo dont go to get them dome porfessionally unless u want them powercoated, wheels are easy easy and its great to do it yourself saves lots of money and us diy people are a minority now. Just sand them back down with 600 wet n dry n soapy water. then wipe down with panel thinners, then spray with highbuild primer and flat it back down with wet n dry 600 (get rid of any scratches) then spray them, so long you do all that well the paint should not react , also do the spraying in warmer conditons. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boldy205 74 Posted February 24, 2007 Well i went to my local (ish) motor factors and bought some Barcoat, what great stuff!! thanks for the advise Paint Guy! it was my 1st time using a proper spray gun, got a couple of runs but i was quite impressed. Just so damp at the moment i cant get the stuff to dry! ohh nice shiney wheels for when the cars back on the road!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugpete1108 62 1 Cars Posted February 24, 2007 pete have you managed to sort out the wheels you got from michael? not yet , got myself a hvlp gun and compressor but am going to wait until the weather gets warmer to save said problems and aid the drying process , (stops bits sticking in it) am still trying to get a set of speedline stickers to go between the paint and final coat of laquer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
