Painting Cam Cover - With Durable Finish

[smckeown 1]

There's plenty of posts on this and i've done it myself before. I have had success with hammerite and the finish was durable. I have also tries with VHT Paint and the finish was not durable.

 

This time i'm interested in painting the 8v cover in white with the PTS stripes. I'm happy to give this a go but an concerned on the finish.

 

On the basis i'd use a good primer then use body spray paint to get the exacy colour matches; im interested in how to ensure the finish is durable.

 

Any advice ?

[skeggyrik 3]

When I was still on the MR2 scene a couple of years ago a couple of the lads on the forum set up an MR2 breaking business which lead onto to some servicing of members cars and then onto engine transplants, notably sticking jap spec turbo 3SGTE engines into uk spec NA cars. At this time they were called Rogue Systems. Before transplanting an engine they did all the usual mechanical checks and renewals you'd do when you had an engine out of the car. Then finally they'd clean it all up and spray it up. Members got to going to town on the cam covers, some chose the rising sun Jap flag, others more intricate designs again, you get the idea. When I was over there one day I asked what they used to do the paint work and they said it was just normal spray paint. Owners never seemed to complain about problems with the finish and assume engine temps running mid engined and turbo'd would be some what hotter than and NA front mounted engine. See what others say but on this it seems normal paint doesn't have a problem with temperatures of that level. I seem to remember something about not using lacquer as it tends to brown.. Don't know where I go that bit from.

 

As for Rogue systems they started developing new products such as charge cooler for the MR2, similar to the system used on the ST205 celica GT4, in place of the poor MR2 air-air intercooler, an engine lid twin fan, along with body kits, exhausts, low rise headlamps. At which point I left the MR2 behind. I caught up with one of the guys at the autosport show the other week. Rogue Systems are now Rogue Motorsport and going strong, they no longer break cars all they do is tuning. They had a 450bhp stroked race car at the show and apparently have a 600bhp drag car too. Business is good I'm told, theyve move premises' twice to bigger places. So that's from nothing to something in about 3 years. Not bad I thought.

 

Anyway didn't I start by talking about painting cam covers..

 

Rich

Edited January 23, 2007 by skeggyrik

[smckeown 1]

this company seems good, i nthat it offeres a good online ordering system etc

 

http://www.paints4u.com/

[smckeown 1]

i've since read that Engine Enamel Clear is good to leave a lasting and durable finish. Anyone tried this ?

[pacey205 2]

I just used car paint and laquer on mine and its been fine so far (about 6K). Id like to redo it though as I didnt get a brilliant finish on it.

 

This is a pic of it after about 2k

 

http://img347.imageshack.us/img347/1386/img15236jt.jpg

 

Michael

[Martin W 0]

Sean - Why not have it power coated, Des-Developments did mine when my engine was built a few years ago and it still looks like new, so very durable and didn't cost much either. Better than using spray cans.

[smckeown 1]

Sean - Why not have it power coated, Des-Developments did mine when my engine was built a few years ago and it still looks like new, so very durable and didn't cost much either. Better than using spray cans.

 

becuase you can only have 1 colour, I want strips So might as well do it all myself

[Paintguy 0]

I've painted many engine parts in the past (surprisingly enough... ) and have not had any complaints (famous last words?)

 

Most recently I did an Mi rocker cover for M@tt, a pair of hyabusa rocker covers and plenum chamber for an autograsser, and several parts for 309PUG (Chris)

 

 

 

I wouldn't use 'normal' paint on something like an exhaust manifold, but most other engine parts don't get hot enough to worry it. 2 pack paint is cured at anywhere between 60 - 80°C, and (hopefully) your engine wont get significantly hotter than that.

 

Thorough cleaning and a good primer is the key

[smckeown 1]

very nice paintguy.

 

This is what paint4u said about my requirements:

 

You will need to apply etch primer first, we recommend Acid 8 aerosol, and then a synthetic aerosol paint (this is more flexible with the temperature than cellulose). You will not need to apply an enamel over the paint.

[309PUG 2 1 Cars]

I've painted many engine parts in the past (surprisingly enough... ) and have not had any complaints (famous last words?)

 

Most recently I did an Mi rocker cover for M@tt, a pair of hyabusa rocker covers and plenum chamber for an autograsser, and several parts for 309PUG (Chris)

 

I wouldn't use 'normal' paint on something like an exhaust manifold, but most other engine parts don't get hot enough to worry it. 2 pack paint is cured at anywhere between 60 - 80°C, and (hopefully) your engine wont get significantly hotter than that.

 

Thorough cleaning and a good primer is the key

 

Those bits look very familiar, oh they are mine. All I can say is that the quality of finish from Andy is excellent, I'm sure he could put your stripes on your cam cover if you crossed his palm with silver Sean

Chris

[welshpug 1,622]

nice, see PSOOC for the colour codes sean

[Paintguy 0]

Thanks Chris. Just so you all know - I didn't prompt him to make that reply

 

 

I can recommend Acid 8 Sean. I use it almost daily, when it's too much hassle to mix up some 2k etch, or get out the spray gun. Don't put it on thick though, as it'll never dry fully. One or two light coats over a scrupulously clean, well sanded surface is all it needs

 

I see where they're coming from suggesting a synthetic too, although I personally would still prefer 2 pack, for the extra durability. That site actually supplies the same make of paint I use at work, listed under Car Paint - 2-Pack (Lechler Macrofan), and Car Paint - Waterbased (Lechler Hydrofan)

 

 

I'm not keen on their use of the word 'enamel', but I think they're trying to tell you that you wont require a lacquer (clearcoat) over the top of the paint, just like your car. The only snag with doing it that way, is that you'll be left with a hard masking edge between the colours. If you spray it all white first, then mask out sections for the colours (red & blue?) you'll have that raised edge.

 

If you'd rather not have that edge, there is another way (the method I would use), which is to spray the white, then the colours, and then clearcoat over the whole item. This would drastically reduce that raised edge, and with a little fine sanding and polishing after, it could be completely removed. I've used this method a lot for multi-coloured motorbike panels.

 

Hope that helps, but you know where I am if I can be of further assistance

[gizzmo 3 1 Cars]

i work for a coating firm ecoat cured at 200 deg c as atouch up we use a paint called hard hat comes in a can dries in air but as u can cure it at 200+ shouldnt cause problem sure a internet search would get results

[smckeown 1]

Well i sent them this pic of the 5 colours I wanted...

 

 

...and they sent these colours

 

 

Yellow is a bit weak maybe...start spraying tomorrow

Edited January 27, 2007 by smckeown

[Paintguy 0]

Yellow is a bit weak maybe...start spraying tomorrow

I don't know your plan, but I would have done the whole thing white first, then mask out each layer, starting in the middle and working outwards. Yellow is an extremely poor covering colour, but it'll do just fine over a white base. Red is almost as bad, but again, a white base helps a great deal

[smckeown 1]

cheers man,

 

yes planned on the following process:

 

wire brushing

sanding wet n dry

wash

white spirit

dry

etch primer

wet n dry

etch primer

wet n dry

white spirit

white paint (coat 1)

white paint (coat 2)

masking tape stripes

spray the 4 colours (unmasking 1 stripe at a time)

clear coat

wax/polish

[Paintguy 0]

masking tape stripes

spray the 4 colours (unmasking 1 stripe at a time)

Have fun with that bit

 

The trick is knowing when to demask. The paint wants to have just started to dry, so that it doesn't flow outside the required area when you take off the tape, but not so dry that you risk peeling off the edge.

 

For a tip, see if you can have a dummy piece on the go at the same time. When you've sprayed a colour, try touching it lighty with your finger after 5 minutes or so. If it still feels soft, but doesn't leave colour on your finger, then it's a good time to demask.

[GazRallye 0]

Thats weird, i was thinking of doing the same to mine the other day!

 

Interesting read guys, post some pics of the finished product please!

[sonofsam 5]

Ditch the masking tape and go for some pre-cut low tack masking film, its what the pro 'brush boys use, just

do be carefull of the dreaded capillary attraction

I speak from experience btw.

[Neosophist 0]

How much are you paying for Acid Etch #8? I always found it costs a fortune, but it is good stuff...

 

I get all my paints from www.jawel.co.uk might be worth a shot if you still need any further colours as their stuff is pretty good

[cybernck 400 1 Cars]

looking forward to see this done.

 

don't know how do you have it in your mind, but i wouldn't make the stripes a large proportion of the cam cover.

 

i'd make the stripes about 50% of total width and offset the to the right hand side.

 

but it will look good either way .

[Paintguy 0]

Ditch the masking tape and go for some pre-cut low tack masking film,

Personally I'd use fine line masking tape on such a simple design, with the beige coloured stuff being the least flexible, thus better for straight lines.

[sonofsam 5]

If you want carzy:

 

{ //// } - what Cybernck is talking about I guess, with an offset, not showing on page thought for some reason.

 

 

{ \\\\ //// } - That would look class also imo.

 

 

{ peu/g/e/o/t} - polished lettering underneath.

 

 

Just some ideas Anyone wishing to use them, owes me a pint btw

Edited January 28, 2007 by sonofsam

[smckeown 1]

looking forward to see this done.

 

don't know how do you have it in your mind, but i wouldn't make the stripes a large proportion of the cam cover.

 

i'd make the stripes about 50% of total width and offset the to the right hand side.

 

but it will look good either way .

 

yes something like this i have in mind

[sonofsam 5]

Personally I'd use fine line masking tape on such a simple design, with the beige coloured stuff being the least flexible, thus better for straight lines.

 

All I was thinking was that, if Sean is planning to spray the sides of the cam cover aswell as the face, you would need to take into account for the curvature, wich can be easily compensated for with pre cut film, not so easy with tape.