GazRallye 0 Posted January 11, 2007 After reading some of the posts on here i decided to buy some 5w-40w oil for my 205 xs. I changed the cylinder head (as it was burning oil at the valve stem seals) for one that has been ported and polished but that is the only modification to the engine. When i did so i changed the oil, don't know what it was as the car is new to me. I have noticed that it now warms up more quickly and runs at a slightly hotter temp, say halfway rather than a third of the way on the gauge. A friend has since mentioned that synthetic is for newer engines as they have higher tolerances, and thus need a thinner oil. I was wondering if it could be running hotter as the oil isn't designed for the engine and is causing more friction, and could be damaging the engine. Anyone shed any light on the situation? Cheers Gaz Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Richie-Van-GTi 70 2 Cars Posted January 11, 2007 (edited) I would say the oil is too thin, switch to a 10/40, dont know if thats the cause of the heating up? could just be the reworked head has been skimmed and compression is up and thats making it a little bit warmer? Edited January 11, 2007 by Richie-Van-GTi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Faz85 0 Posted January 11, 2007 (edited) the 5w40 oil would be the same as the 10w40 when the engine is warmed up, (its only the cold viscosity which is different) so I wouldnt think that it would cause the engine to heat up any more than usual. I would say switch to a thicker oil anyway like Richie says, would be better for cold running. Edited January 11, 2007 by Faz85 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GazRallye 0 Posted January 12, 2007 Part of the reason i bought the thinner oil was i thought it would be better for the engine when its started up in the cold, because it'll be able to circulate more easily... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Faz85 0 Posted January 12, 2007 Its a matter of opinion really, but I think that in an older engine like the XU, a thicker 10-40 is best. Your quite right that thinner oil will circulate more easily and it will make the engine easier to start from cold, but in my opinion it would be a bit too thin, and might not give as much protection, as the tolerances arent as close as they would be in a more modern engine. Its entirely up to you what you choose, but I would personally stick to peugeots own recommendation. And as long as its changed regularly, thats the most important thing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rippthrough 98 Posted January 13, 2007 Its a matter of opinion really, but I think that in an older engine like the XU, a thicker 10-40 is best. Your quite right that thinner oil will circulate more easily and it will make the engine easier to start from cold, but in my opinion it would be a bit too thin, and might not give as much protection, as the tolerances arent as close as they would be in a more modern engine. Its entirely up to you what you choose, but I would personally stick to peugeots own recommendation. And as long as its changed regularly, thats the most important thing. How would that work? If it's too thin when cold then the engine would dead when it warmed up! Stick with the 5w-40, that's not the problem. Might need more fuel for the cylinder head mods, or the ign advance changing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richard 0 Posted January 13, 2007 I'd be inclined to go with rippthroughs opinion too. Normal everyday driving wouldnt be affected by a small change of oil viscosity. If your banging off the limiter all day then yes..but you'd also be looking at using mobil 1 etc IMO oil changes should be done regularly and with recognised oil brands..not this 4.99 for 5 litres in a blue container stuff i've seen on some supermarket shelves. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GazRallye 0 Posted January 13, 2007 Rippthrough, i adjusted the timing so it idles ok with no pinking, however it ticks over at around 1100 rpm so i think maybe the carb needs setting up. I certainly dont gun it to 6k all the time, so thats not why its running warmer, i fitted a new water pump and thermo as well so maybe the new thermo is of a slightly higher temp... I'm not worried that its running hotter as its not too hot (so long as the oils not too blame), i'm just curious as to why Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Normski 1 Posted January 13, 2007 i certainly dont gun it to 6k all the time, so thats not why its running warmer, i fitted a new water pump and thermo as well so maybe the new thermo is of a slightly higher temp... Thats what I was just going to say. Is the thermostat the same temperature rating as the original? (you said the head had been changed in post #1). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rippthrough 98 Posted January 13, 2007 Thats what I was just going to say. Is the thermostat the same temperature rating as the original? (you said the head had been changed in post #1). ^^Good point, could be that before the thermostat was failing/clogged slightly leaving it open, that would explain the longer warm up time and cooler running beforehand. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GazRallye 0 Posted January 13, 2007 Yeah the old one was probably the original, and was looking rather sorry for itself I guess that explains it, cheers guys Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rippthrough 98 Posted January 13, 2007 Yeah the old one was probably the original, and was looking rather sorry for itself I guess that explains it, cheers guys Out of interest has the head made much difference? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GazRallye 0 Posted January 13, 2007 (edited) At first i didn't think so but as i was taking it easy letting it run in, i didnt really want to push it. Yesterday i took it out and took it upto around 6k rpm, it seemed more torquey past around 3.5k to 4k and a hell of a lot more happier to rev up there, ie doesn't sound like its about to rattle itself to pieces. Its had new rockers as well so i think this has stopped it sounding so tappety, although its a TU engine so thats pretty inherent! Maybe its just a placebo effect, but when i get a cold air feed and induction kit and eventually a 4-2-1 manifold, they should complement the new head perfectly. Edited January 13, 2007 by GazRallye Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
