Guest Stev-o Posted November 28, 2006 High guys hoping for some advice. Ive owned my pug 1.9 gti for 2 1/2 years. Whenever there is a problem I can sort it. However this time its got the better of me. My problem is this:The car had been misfiring recently, high up the rev range the car sort of splutters sounds like its running on 3 cylinders as if it low on fuel. I take my foot off and drive normally and the car continues to drive with the spluttering sound. Only today she decided to cut out on me. I attempt to start her and she turns over but not starting or even trying to catch. Have experienced similar problem in past and had the ignition amp changed around a year back. I have tried a new Ignition amp, a new coil. All to no avail. Has new oil filter, fuel filter, new distributor (one off a breaker) 6months back, new sparks, new leads, new coil, new alternator. Really baffling, could it be the tachymetric relay (black box next to ecu), i pulled that off and it didnt make a difference to it starting. So it could be that, at the same time it might not be that.just that they are £45, so dont want to pay that and for it to do nothing! Also have an alarm and immob, have thought of this interfering, but doubt it. Have sprayed wd40 over all connectors, dizzy, ig amp, coil.... Has been running normally since then. anyway, any suggestions would be appreciated Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,627 Posted November 28, 2006 new leads and possibly plugs time mefinks, have you cleaned the earth points with fine wet and dry? the 309 I just got had a misfire like yours, was fine at idle, and ok off throttle but as soon as any load/throttle was applied it misses like a bugger. after 2.5 years the plugs will be pretty dirty so whip them out and clean them carefully with a fine wire brush (motorfactors sell small brass brushes for this) and stick a new set of leads on, if its still missing try a new set of plugs, GSF are most likely to be the cheapest and quickest source, my local had them in stock and cost less than £30 in total. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahl 4 Posted November 28, 2006 You can bridge the connections on the tachymetric relay plug to make the injectors work and the fuel pump run (constantly). Worth a go as its major cause of non-starting. You'll find the wire/terminal numbers with a quick search. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Stev-o Posted November 28, 2006 How do you go about bridging the relays? Ive been out in the garage trying everthing. Shes not sparking, just turning over. I wouldnt think it would be the spark plugs, there isnt a spark of any of them!! After trying everything, putting in new plugs would annoy me if it was the answer after all this! Could it be anything else, really plucking at straws now. I need my car for uni, and if i cant get it going, im selling it for something reliable, its pissing me off that much! Now thinking its the immobilisor! Its a quality GTI, full magnex exhaust, K&N, new driveshafts, drop-links, wish bones both sides. Goes like a rocket normally! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahl 4 Posted November 28, 2006 You'd bridge the relay terminals with a couple of bits of good thick wire. The tachymetric relay only controls fuel, but you never know if your missing something, so I'd try it anyway. Saying that, immobilizer sounds like a good cause. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
205007 12 Posted November 28, 2006 (edited) have you the means to test the fuel pressure? at the very least id get a 17mm spanner and crack the fuel hose nut on the fuel rail to see if it has fuel in the line also if you have dislodged the coolant temp sender it will run very rich and flood the engine causing it not to go at all, it will also cause the car to splutter like you describe you need to remove the plugs and see if they are wet, or if they are black from overfuelling Edited November 28, 2006 by 205007 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve@cornwall 100 Posted November 28, 2006 Also, the wiring from the dizzy to the ignition amp are prone to fraying/breaking/shorting where they exit the dizzy, if they're frayed, make sure they're not touching! Also, the wiring from the dizzy to the ignition amp are prone to fraying/breaking/shorting where they exit the dizzy, if they're frayed, make sure they're not touching! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Stev-o Posted November 28, 2006 Cheers for the advice guys! When changing the distributor earlier today i did notice that the in car dizzy had a slight tear exposing wires as it exits the dizzy, very small, and no fraying it seems!Was the same on the dizzy i swopped. Will check the temp sensor hadnt thought of that!Maybe i did knock it out slightly!will check tomorrow! Cheers again Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Stev-o Posted November 29, 2006 Hi guys, after long drawn out attempts to get her started, me and my mate found that the cambelt had snapped, it is still in place, and the engine suprisingly turns over. Whilst turning her over my mate moved the casing slightly and you could see the belt was not moving!This would definately not spark. Remember the car stalled on me at around 30mph, so no high speed damage. Engine is ok, so now need to get on with the cambelt chane. Any tips or ideas would be appreciated, as never done one before. Thnks guys! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
205007 12 Posted November 29, 2006 arse! fingers crossed it runs ok with the new belt on Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob_the_Sparky 9 Posted November 30, 2006 If piston hit valve then you will have damage. Not heard of a cam belt failure that didn't result in pisont meeting valve but you never know... I guess put a belt on and test compression, you will soon know if you have a bent valve from a compression test. Rob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
