Complete Suspension Renewal, What Do I Need?

[Dream Weaver 2]

The suspension on my 205 is really letting the side down, so i'm splashing out on a complete renewal.

 

So far I have the following:

 

1. SBC Phase 1 kit arriving shortly

2. Polybushed wishbones, also arriving soon (when I arrange pickup from Dino )

3. Rear Powerflex bumpstops.

 

The rear beam has been rebuilt and I have all new calipers/discs/pads so the brakes are OK for now.

 

The plan is to do the back first, add the new shocks and bumpstops and then concentrate on the front. I intend to take the wheels off then get it on some stands. I'll disconnect the wishbones from the hubs, take the gear linkage off, disconnect the steering column and then lower the subframe from the car which will then be cleaned and painted.

 

With the subframe off I can replace the ARB bushes and add the new wishbones ready for re-fitting.

 

I'll then remove the strut brace, top mounts and existing shocks/struts from the front. The new SBC kit will then be fitted back on, along with new top mounts, bearings, subframe, new drop links and track rod ends.

 

I reckon I need to buy the following:

 

- Track rod ends

- ARB drop links

- Poly bush kit

- Fast road top mounts from BBM

- New top mount bearings

- Cups for rear bump stops

 

Now for the questions and advice:

 

1. Have I missed anything from my required list above?

2. Is it worth doing the track rod ends?

3. Where's the best place to buy all the bits?

4. Is there anything in my proposed plan that looks dodgy and undoable?

5. If the subframe is off and the struts/shocks off, is it OK to just have the driveshafts hanging and still attached to the hubs, or do the hubs need to come off?

 

My only concern is dropping the sub frame, but I doubt I could do the ARB bushes without doing that? I'm hoping all of this will refresh the suspension and give me the driving experience I want.

 

I'll also be adding the PAS back in as well which means relocating the Coilpack which is on the side of the head, but I have some Magnecor long leads on the way for this, just need to find a place to locate it.

[smighall 1]

Engine mounts been done recently? Iknow not technically Suspension, but if you're taking the subframe off, it gives better access to the lower mount.

[Dream Weaver 2]

Yep, Grp N engine mounts all round, all in good condition.

[hengti 2]

fair amount of work on the cards there!

 

are you primarily removing the subframe so that you can do the ARB bushes? it is possible to renew them without disturbing the subframe (although i'll admit that it's fiddly)

[Ahl 4]

5. If the subframe is off and the struts/shocks off, is it OK to just have the driveshafts hanging and still attached to the hubs, or do the hubs need to come off?

That shouldn't cause any problem as the wheel bearings will still be held together. You'll need to tie it up to stop the driveshafts pulling out of the gearbox though.

[James_m 0]

You will also need new nylock nuts for the wishbones, track rod ends and strut tops, dunno if these are totally neccasary, but i changed them anyway.

[GLPoomobile 958]

You don't need to remove the subframe to do the ARB bushes but it can be a fiddle. I would say that having the subframe off and fitting the wishbones to it with it off the car will be a lot easier though, as it's a bit of a pain doing them in situ.

 

One thing though, I remember you weren't happy with the car a while ago because of the bucket seats and heavy throttle linkage not making it a good daily driver. Are you sure you want to go for poly bushes and uprated top mount bushes? It's probably handle well enough with the SBC kit and new comonents without going extra harsh with the poly bushes and top mounts. Your choice though.

 

I'd also recommend you thouroughly check the steering rack etc for play, and maybe budget for some new track rods. as well as track rod ends.

[smckeown 1]

Worth replacing the hub pinch bolts at the same time ? I assume this is a dedictred road car set-up, I thought you were looking for a possible track setup in the future ?

[Dream Weaver 2]

This is mainly for fast road use, with ocassional track use.

 

GL - i'm going for the new Fast road top mounts from BBM, which are in between OEM and GrpN. Buckets are gone now, and linkage is sorted. The GrpN mounts make it quite harsh so i'm used to that.

 

How much harder are poly bushes compared to OEM?

 

The subframe removal was just to do the ARB bushes, but I may just leave it in place if its possible to do it like that??

[Dream Weaver 2]

So where's best to buy all the bits, and anyone any ideas on costs etc?

[hengti 2]

How much harder are poly bushes compared to OEM?

 

The subframe removal was just to do the ARB bushes, but I may just leave it in place if its possible to do it like that??

 

Are these Dino's bottom arms? Might well be wrong, but thought he'd fitted Powerflex (purple) bushes - ? If so, they're no harsher than OEM bushes.

 

To change the ARB bushes without disturbing the subframe, i'd disconnect everything (ie. drop links and bar retaining clamps), knock the bar retaining bolts into the subframe to give yourself as much room as poss (it shouldn't be possible to lose these bolts in the subframe - but don't go nuts with the hammer; also - you don't want to damage the ends of the threads either, as that might cause problems in getting the nuts back on).

then spray the bushes with penetrating oil (they'll likely be stick to the bar if they've been on a while) and knock them out with a hammer and suitable drift.

clean the bar up once you've got them out. smear vaseline on and inside the new bushes and spend some time trying to get them back in - the nearside one is a pain as you've got the locating bump to deal with. it's perfectly possible to do it like this - just takes patience.

 

parts - GSF/ECP/Autofive?

Edited November 15, 2006 by hengti

[sonofsam 5]

Im sure you can make up your parts list/prices from This

[pug_ham 241 3 Cars]

Track rods ends, choice is yours but if trhey haven't got any play in & the boots are still un-damaged. I'd let them wear out. TBH though they are under £20 new.

 

ARB bushes from Peugeot, I think you can get them both for less than £10. You only have to drop the back of the subframe to change them but if you want to get it powder coated its only a couple more bolts to drop it & then the arb bushes are a doddle.

 

Top mount bearings are £7.50 + vat each iirc from GSF, ask for them for a ZX or Berlingo as they are the same. I got mine from the local motor factors though for the same prioce as gsf.

 

Droplinks; I can't vouch for anywhere but I bought some from ebay a while ago just I've not needed them yet.

 

Cups for rear bumpstops; Peugeot but they might've stopped making them iirc.

 

Are you going to want your rear beam adjusting to suit the front soon?

 

Graham.

[Dream Weaver 2]

Cheers Graham, bought some droplinks off eBay yesterday, so just the other bits to sort now.

 

Got the top mount rubbers ordered as well from BBM.

 

Will the beam need dropping, or is it already 1 spline down? I'll fit the SBC kit, then see what it looks like, at the moment it's a reverse dragster with the front about 20mm higher than the rear

[Dream Weaver 2]

Just another quick question on this.

 

I've ordered the top mount rubbers from BBM, but what about the actual top mounts, cups, bolts for the top of the strut as mine are knackered.

 

Not sure if there is a kit for this, ECP seem to have a top mount kit for £23, but I assume this comes with rubber mounts as well?

[Grim.Badger 15]

The actual top mounts (cups and the stud bit) are Peugeot only unless I'm very much mistaken as I checked about a month ago, unfortunately this includes everything including the rubbers and bearings and is about £45 a side

[Dream Weaver 2]

£45 a side, bugger that

 

Better get the grinder out and refurb the current ones

[Super Josh 4]

£45 a side, bugger that

 

Better get the grinder out and refurb the current ones

 

It's only the bearings and the rubbers that deteriorate, the rest of it just corrodes a little. Nothing that a bit of wire brushing and smoothrite can't sort out

 

 

 

Josh

[Grim.Badger 15]

It's only the bearings and the rubbers that deteriorate, the rest of it just corrodes a little. Nothing that a bit of wire brushing and smoothrite can't sort out

Josh

 

Ha, not if it's my car The top part had corroded so badly once I'd cleaned it up there was less than 1mm of metal left. Admitedly that was I think an exceptional case and cleaning will make most look better.

Otherwise check scrapyards for one with good mounts, that's what I did

[pug_ham 241 3 Cars]

Will the beam need dropping, or is it already 1 spline down? I'll fit the SBC kit, then see what it looks like, at the moment it's a reverse dragster with the front about 20mm higher than the rear

IIRC I set it the same height as mny STDT, maybe a little lower so wait until you have fitted everything & see but adjusting the height only takes about an hour so its no big problem (& FOC ).

 

Graham.

[Dream Weaver 2]

All bits now ordered for this and sitting downstairs (why is it exciting receiving boxes of car stuff? ).

 

I've also got some new driving lights, Magnecor leads (so I can re-fit the PAS) and some other bits and bobs including my HID kit, so it's time to freshen up the front of the car.

 

Just need to find some time to fit the kit now!!

 

And i've realised, that's everything replaced on the car now, bar the shell, gearbox and the front calipers

[Super Josh 4]

And i've realised, that's everything replaced on the car now, bar the shell, gearbox and the front calipers

 

Best order some new front anchors then

 

 

 

 

Josh

[Dream Weaver 2]

That's next on the list for after Xmas, though it does have ATE discs and Ferodo pads which are OK for now.

 

Gearbox/LSD for next summer

[Super Josh 4]

Good Man