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Jer309GTi

Mystery Suspension Problem

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Jer309GTi

The front suspension and steering on my XS have felt 'loose' and not right ever since I bought it. After checking everthing over I started replacing bits that were worn or that were cheap to replace, just so I could eliminate them. So far I have replaced:

 

Both lower arms

Both T-R-Ends

Both front shocks

Both strut top mounts and rubbers

ARB bushes

Tracking adjusted on 4 wheel laser alignment machine

Checked tightness of subframe mounts

All engine mounts replaced

 

But yet the suspension still feels 'loose' and the car feels really crashy and there is still a knocking over bumps. Also the car seems to follow the camber of the road really badly (might be down to the 15s). The steering rack has the tiniest bit of wear in and the column joints seem fineso would imagine this wasn't the cause.

 

Are the front subframes bolted to the body with some kind of bush that could wear? Or would the holes in the hub where the ball joint goes through have gone oval? I'm stumped as to what else could be wrong with it. :)

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welshpug

have you checked the condition of the rear beam bushes?

 

subframes bolt directly and have no bushes, have you checked the condition of the dampers? crashy ride is usually down to worn out or too stiff a damper.

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Jer309GTi

Rear suspension is all fine, problem lies with front suspension. As I said before, front shocks are new, I replaced them with OEM ones, so won't be too stiff or worn. Replacing the shocks didn't really make any difference to the problem :)

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inferno

front drop links from antiroll bar to shocks. jack the car on the subframe so both wheels are off the floor and check each end for play. they always go and are around 10-15quid each to replace. usually a pig though and need cutting off.

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Sandy

No drop links on the XS.

 

It could be the bushes between the front subframe and chassis legs or the play in the rack.

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Jer309GTi
No drop links on the XS.

 

It could be the bushes between the front subframe and chassis legs or the play in the rack.

 

Cheers Sandy, heres hoping its the subrame bushes and not the rack!

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Grahamrally

It's worth checking all the mounts for the subframe are done up tight. I had numerous problems on my old XS where the rear subframe bolts would rattle themselves out! That then causes a knock as the subframe bangs the bottom of the car. Not good for handling either!

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Sandy

2nd that, my Goodwood had it bad and the subframe cracked as a result.

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Jer309GTi
Checked tightness of subframe mounts

 

:)

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jim21070
No drop links on the XS.

 

I take it then that an XS has the base-model arms then, where the ARB goes into a bush in the arm.

 

I think it is just how these feel and nothing is really wrong. Going from my GTi to our D Junior is a sea-change as far as handling and feel is concerned. The D feels almost damgerous in comparason and is nowhere near as firmly planted as the GTi. Its a comfy ride though but you can forget all about spirited cornering...

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pug_ham
I take it then that an XS has the base-model arms then, where the ARB goes into a bush in the arm.

Yes, it is possible that thw hub balljoint holes have gone oval but imo that'd be noticed when you were tracking it up.

 

When you take a left or right corner does it sfel to adjust the steering input as the weight moves onto the outside wheel?

 

Graham.

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calvinhorse

sounds like when my rack went id try that!

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Jer309GTi
When you take a left or right corner does it sfel to adjust the steering input as the weight moves onto the outside wheel?

 

Graham.

 

What did you mean to write when you said 'sfel'? You don't need to adjust the steering as the weight shifts, you mainly noticed the 'looseness' when accelerating and you hit a pothole, just like when a ball joint has gone, which was what led me to believe the hubs had gone oval. Is it obvious if they are oval if you have a look up through the hole, or would you need vernier calipers to check?

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pug_ham
What did you mean to write when you said 'sfel'?

Just figured out what I think mean't to say; feels.

Is it obvious if they are oval if you have a look up through the hole, or would you need vernier calipers to check?

Yes but its not easy by eye, you can tell though.

 

Another way is that if you know the balljoints & the bolts through the hub are good.

 

With the car on the wheels lever between the hub & wshbone by the balljoint.

 

If there is movement between the hub & balljoint they are most likely oval.

 

Graham.

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