Which Oil For My Rebuild?

[matty_gti 20]

hi all, just asking is there a certain oil i should use when rebuilding my 1.9 8v engine or any old cheap stuff, i heard its better to run part synthetic than full synthetic becasue its just to thin???....i was using 5w 40 fully synthetic with a purflux oil filter form Peugeot before in my 1.6 until she died .....

 

however i will be fitting a group A oil pump spring to the 1.9 because i know a few people that have them and for just piece of mind

 

I am about to fit together the bottom end which i get back from the engine builders end of this week, ill have new mains and bigend bearings, and a nice lightend + reground crank, therfore ill need to know which oil i should use when covering the whole bottom end in it.

Edited September 12, 2006 by matty_gti

[matty_gti 20]

O and i just bought another 1.6 GTi to be my new runaround while i rebuild my 1.9, so my qeustion is i had a K&N induction kit on the my other GTi and i want to move it to the one i just bought, however the car it came form is not power steering and the new one is, would it matter if im fiiting it behind the passenger headlight???

 

ThAnKs

[richard 0]

Thats where mine sits...and where most of the gti's ive seen have them.

 

No manifold heat soak there!

[matty_gti 20]

yeah thats what i thought, but its says 'PAS and NON-PAS kits, so i thought it may of sat over the exhaust manifold like ive seen a few.

[matty_gti 20]

Getting back to the oil q....is part syn or fully syn better for my rebuild and what '?W-??' is best...and should i use 'assembly lube'?

[Banjo 1]

Have you honed the liners and are the piston rings new?

[jackherer 543]

yeah thats what i thought, but its says 'PAS and NON-PAS kits, so i thought it may of sat over the exhaust manifold like ive seen a few.

 

The PAS kit has a bracket for the reservoir, thats the only difference, the filter fits in the same place.

[matty_gti 20]

Have you honed the liners and are the piston rings new?

 

Yeah the liners have been honed and yes the rings are new....

[petert 554]

Updating to the 26T sprocket from a 2L (and 52T chain) is more important that upping the pressure. Spinning the pump faster will improve low rpm pressure.

 

Pour a tube of Crane Break In Lube over the cam/buckets. Use mineral based 20W-50 for 500Kms, then change to 15W-50 (part or full synthetic). 5W-40 would be a poor choice.

Edited January 18, 2007 by petert

[Mandic 0]

Why 15W-50?

 

Cheers

 

Ziga

[matty_gti 20]

Updating to the 26T sprocket from a 2L (and 52T chain) is more important that upping the pressure. Spinning the pump faster will improve low rpm pressure.

 

Pour a tube of Crane Break In Lube over the cam/buckets. Use mineral based 20W-50 for 500Kms, then change to 15W-50 (part or full synthetic). 5W-40 would be a poor choice.

 

'Crane break?', how about just taking off the cam cover and poring oil on top of the buckets and cam, will that not do the job?

 

And should i use lube for the new mains and big ends or can i just add loads of oil?

 

And isnt 20w-50 to thick for a new engine?....shoudnt it be 10w or even 15w?...and is mineral differnt from part/full syn?

 

ThAnKs

[petert 554]

Why 15W-50?

 

Cheers

 

Ziga

 

So it's heavier when it's hot.

[matty_gti 20]

So it's heavier when it's hot.

 

Dont you mean it would be 'thinner' than say 15w-40 when hot?.....what makes it heavier?

[Banjo 1]

I think you should do some reading up on oil mate..

[matty_gti 20]

I think you should do some reading up on oil mate..

 

Ive read ,read.....and read some more...theres stack loads of info on oil..i think im jus gonna stick to castrol GTX 10w-40 for running it and then swap to somthing better after a few thou.

[Banjo 1]

As long as its not synthetic it will be fine for running in, remember lots of full throttle once its warmed up and keep the revs moving all the time, that way you'll get a good seal with the new rings.