2052006 10 Posted August 30, 2006 My gti has central locking, but it won't open the boot lock, either on the driver's door or the remote (original pug system). The lock on the boot works fine, just not on the central locking. Any thoughts on what it could most likely be or where to start looking? Cheers Pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 241 3 Cars Posted August 31, 2006 Seized central locking motor. If the lock works Ok with the key then its either seized or not connected. Are there any noises when you turn the key in the lock? You might be able to hear the motor being moved. Open boot & take the black plastic trim off, you should see a rod going from the inside of the boot lock & that runs to the motor. Two 8mm bolts hold the motor to the boot iirc so its easy to disconnect & see if its seized. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted August 31, 2006 If the motor is duff, the lock will be difficult to turn with the key IIRC. If it unlocks easily on the key then the motor may have been disconnected. Maybe it died and a previous owner just got rid of it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2052006 10 Posted August 31, 2006 Thanks for the replies guys. Graham - there is indeed some sort of noise when I turn the key in the lock (of the boot), a sort of whiring sound - I guess that may be the motor? There is no sound from the rear of the car when I use the driver's door lock, or remote. GL - the boot lock is relatively easy to turn, but I know that it hasn't been disconnected. I only bought the car off a mate a few days ago, so have been in touch (about many things!) - apparently it just stopped working, he has had a look and couldn't figure out what the problem was. I shall have to look harder... Cheers for the help, I'll let you know how I get on once I get round to looking at it! Pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted August 31, 2006 The whirring sound is the motor, so that proves it is still mechanically attached. I would have thought that if the lock turns easily then it should be working (but that is not conclusive) so it may be an electrical connection to the motor that is the cause. The whirring sound is the motor, so that proves it is still mechanically attached. I would have thought that if the lock turns easily then it should be working (but that is not conclusive) so it may be an electrical connection to the motor that is the cause. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rogerrally 0 Posted September 1, 2006 Srry, Thread Hijack here, Ive got a pug 205 gti with a trendy de locked boot door. There is no way of getting into the car from outside, and no way of opening from the inside without climbing over the rear seat, and getting behinfd the trim panel. very silly! If I was to fit a central locking motor as mentioned above, would this just release the catch on the locking mechanism of the key turn( which I dont have), or would it allow remote opening of the boot, by pressing down the little catch inside the hatch. Many thanks? Rog Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 241 3 Cars Posted September 2, 2006 Graham - there is indeed some sort of noise when I turn the key in the lock (of the boot), a sort of whiring sound - I guess that may be the motor? There is no sound from the rear of the car when I use the driver's door lock, or remote. I agree, the noise says that the motor isn't seized, especially if the lock turns freely. Take the inner boot panel off & check the plug for broken wires or a rusty plug to the motor stopping it working. If I was to fit a central locking motor as mentioned above, would this just release the catch on the locking mechanism of the key turn( which I dont have), or would it allow remote opening of the boot, by pressing down the little catch inside the hatch. The locking motor will be no use as if the boot is flushed & there is no external way to open it but you need a solenoid & switch fitting to strike the latch & open the boot. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anton green 12 1 Cars Posted September 9, 2006 (edited) I agree, the noise says that the motor isn't seized, especially if the lock turns freely. Take the inner boot panel off & check the plug for broken wires or a rusty plug to the motor stopping it working. The locking motor will be no use as if the boot is flushed & there is no external way to open it but you need a solenoid & switch fitting to strike the latch & open the boot. Graham. On my 205 I have removed the boot lock and plated over the gap where it used to be as the amount of times the car has been opened by thieves attacking the lock is rediculous. I then took the central locking motor and made a bracket for it so it is mounted to fire towards the latch which I have extended so that the motor gains more leverage. I took the wires which go to the motor and fitted a switch in line, so that now when I want to open the boot I press the central locking/alarm button on my keyring whilst pressing a button mounted on the car. This unlatches the boot and I can open it. Works every time as it should do. If you have a trim panel on your car's boot interior you might not want to extend the opening latch as the trim panel could possibly not go back on, I wouldnt know if the central locking motor is powerful enough or not to strike the latch effectively without it being extended. It is pretty powerful tho for its size Edited September 9, 2006 by Anton green Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2052006 10 Posted September 11, 2006 I agree, the noise says that the motor isn't seized, especially if the lock turns freely. Take the inner boot panel off & check the plug for broken wires or a rusty plug to the motor stopping it working. The locking motor will be no use as if the boot is flushed & there is no external way to open it but you need a solenoid & switch fitting to strike the latch & open the boot. Graham. Managed to have a look at the C/l motor in the boot - it doesn't appear seized - it moves freely in and out. Apparently, according to my mate who had the car before, there is a current going to it as well. So, I'm thinking maybe not the motor. Any ideas what else? Could it be the control unit underneath the steering column? I'm a bit stumped! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2052006 10 Posted November 28, 2006 Ok, so it's not the actuator in the boot - tested and it's working fine. Also wired up one from the door in the boot - not working - so clearly the problem is no power getting to the boot actuator. Have checked the control unit underneath the steering column - all appears fine, nothing obvious and checked the circuit board. Any ideas for other things/places to check. What route would the wiring take? Thanks for any help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2052006 10 Posted December 5, 2006 Thought I'd finish off the thread - problem caused by snapped wire where the loom goes through the top of the hatch to the roof (l/h side as you face the rear of the car). All fixed now Cheers for the suggestions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
