hexhamstu 9 Posted July 11, 2006 do i need to strip the had before i take it to get it skimmed? i couldnt find an answer using the search function but it seemed that in ever picture of a skimmed head i found the valves had been removed. do i need to remove the manifold and cams and everything aswell? its still got everything on it at the moment. and im getting a lift there tomorrow! any help appreciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug309twin40s 1 Posted July 11, 2006 yep strip the cyl of valves manifold etc. then get it skimmed, fit new vavle stem seals, lap in the vavles and rebuild it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hexhamstu 9 Posted July 11, 2006 god the bolts on the manifold are a bastard. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mickie 3 Posted July 12, 2006 god the bolts on the manifold are a bastard. you have to take all the bolts out aswell ? where you taking yours stu ? the only place i know is this cleasbys place in durham.. know anywhere nearer than that ? ive took out my vavles already.. spent 30 on the tool tho this topic helped me a little, cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hexhamstu 9 Posted July 12, 2006 (edited) you have to take all the bolts out aswell ? where you taking yours stu ? the only place i know is this cleasbys place in durham.. know anywhere nearer than that ? ive took out my vavles already.. spent 30 on the tool tho this topic helped me a little, cheers somewhere in newcastle, on the mi16 head the manifold is at a weird angle and kid of covers up the bolts. dunno if its the same on the 8v which tool? a spring compresser? Edited July 12, 2006 by hexhamstu Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mickie 3 Posted July 12, 2006 yeah the spring compressor.. i have my cylinder head totally off, ive just left my bolts sticking out, i shouldnt have to take these out for skimming should i ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hexhamstu 9 Posted July 12, 2006 sticking out of the head? im not to sure about relapping the valve seats, dont think i trust myself that far. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mickie 3 Posted July 12, 2006 (edited) yeah the inlet and outlet manifold bolts are sticking out.. i shouldnt have to take them out i would i have thought.. if the valve seats are anything like the ones on my 8v it looks an easy job im getting confused again, its late relapping valve seats ? why Edited July 12, 2006 by mickie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hexhamstu 9 Posted July 12, 2006 oh i see you mean the bolts for the manifold i reckon they should be allright i imagine they are theres just twice as many of them! so now i need a spring compressor some valve lapping past stuff, and one of those weird plungers to hold the valve, great! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest CB-Dave Posted July 12, 2006 you shouldn't have to take the valves out if you're just going for a skim - I certainly didn't on the 8v head I skimmed up... there's a place called ESMF in swalwell (engine services motor factors iirc), they did my skim job for about 30 quid, might be worth digging their phone number out of the yellow pages? if the valves are giving a good enough seal as is, and the stem seals are still sealing well, then it's pointless disturbing the lot unless you're doing a complete rebuild of the engine - you're just making more work for yourself imo if it's just a head gasket. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hexhamstu 9 Posted July 12, 2006 ok cool! i'll give them a ring and see what they say about it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest CB-Dave Posted July 12, 2006 (I meant to put - take the cams and followers out and number the followers as to where they came from (make sure they go back in the same place), but once the valves are shut you should be fine) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hexhamstu 9 Posted July 12, 2006 well i left the manifold on and the followers on and took it to northern rebore or something like that? its near newcastle college. anyway they said they'd sort it out. so nae bother! got to pick it up tomorrow at 10:30 decent! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hexhamstu 9 Posted July 13, 2006 turns out the head was cracked but its all welded up a treat now. putting the cams back on i have a couple of questions, which side does the spray bar attach to, the cam side or the distrubutor side. and the numbers on top of the billeted bits that hold the cams in which side to the numbers start at, i guessed 1 was dizzie side. but ive no idea if im right. they all fitted on ok, but im not sure if that counts? i guess they only fit one way actually? if someone could verify before i turn the key that would be great! oh and what do people use as timing dowels i was using 4mm allen keys with electrical tape on to make it 6mm then 10mm i would have used 6mm allen keys but i couldnt get them in the holes while the head was in the car. because there wasnt enough clearance! any suggestions i guess a 6mm bolt is my best bet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
