Rippthrough 98 Posted June 17, 2006 Are the offical dremel carbide cutters any good for fast removal of ally? Working on a couple of TU inlet manifolds, (anyone that hasn't seen them - they're about 7mm smaller than the ports), so I need to remove about 5-6mm of ally all the way down (more at the entrance). Been using just standard cutting discs (4-5 together) as I found those to work better than any of the stones/grinding bits etc. I had, but I'm getting through them at a ridiculus rate. Just wondering if anything would be better, the carbide cutters look a bit on the small side on the dremel site. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonmurgie 2 Posted June 17, 2006 Can you not get a Die Grinder for the Dremal? I used one with an airline and it sorted out some metal removing real easy! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rippthrough 98 Posted June 17, 2006 Can you not get a Die Grinder for the Dremal? I used one with an airline and it sorted out some metal removing real easy! die grinder is just the term for an airline powered dremel-type tool ain't it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crogthomas 0 Posted June 17, 2006 For aluminium you really need carbide cutters, nothing else will work properly. Grinding stones will just clog with aluminium. Carbide cutters work best at low speeds anyway so you may as well get some 6mm shank bits and put them in a electric drill. Use some sort of cutting oil (WD40 works) to stop the flutes getting cloged up and you will whiz through the aluminium. The small carbide cutters you get for the dremel are okay for detail work but not for bulk metal removal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rippthrough 98 Posted June 17, 2006 For aluminium you really need carbide cutters, nothing else will work properly. Grinding stones will just clog with aluminium. Carbide cutters work best at low speeds anyway so you may as well get some 6mm shank bits and put them in a electric drill. Use some sort of cutting oil (WD40 works) to stop the flutes getting cloged up and you will whiz through the aluminium. The small carbide cutters you get for the dremel are okay for detail work but not for bulk metal removal. Been using a light oil anyway. Cheers for the advice, I'll go look for some carbide bits then. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crogthomas 0 Posted June 17, 2006 Try this company: http://www.jlindustrial.com/endeca/searchR...?N=4031&Ne=2159 Not used them myself but have been recomended to me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted June 17, 2006 A die grinder and flap wheel combo is good, keep the wheel lubed up with paraffin and it should last a while and not get clogged so much, messy but effective,make sure you get the correct speed rated wheels for a die grinder as its alot faster than your average pillar drill. If cutting with carbide lube up Talo wich is basically the same as a candle or bar of soap. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rippthrough 98 Posted June 18, 2006 A die grinder and flap wheel combo is good, keep the wheel lubed up with paraffin and it should last a while and not get clogged so much, messy but effective,make sure you get the correct speed rated wheels for a die grinder as its alot faster than your average pillar drill.If cutting with carbide lube up Talo wich is basically the same as a candle or bar of soap. Tryed a couple of wheels but the ones I have are hardly making a dent. Think I have some talo in a tin somewhere, save me from destroying the soap. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted June 18, 2006 what grit are they? try a 40, there harsh ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rippthrough 98 Posted June 18, 2006 what grit are they? try a 40, there harsh ! 80's I think. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest smokinslim Posted June 18, 2006 Can't offer much assistance with this i'm afraid, had to settle for tidying the roughly cut edges of the ports on my manifolds and head with wet n dry, but i'd be very interested to hear the results of your efforts. Are you leaving the walls of the ports smooth or rough when you've opened them out? I read somewhere (Tuning for Performance and Economy, by A. G. Bell) that the slightly rough internal surface of inlet manifolds is to do with keeping the fuel vapour in suspension. When i find the book (i've recently moved), i'll dig the article out if you want. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted June 18, 2006 (edited) 80's I think. No wonder you were'nt getting anywhere, while we are on the subject .Do not use a stone that has previously been used for hard metal, the soft metal can penetrate to the core heat up the hard metal rapidly and cause the stone to explode! never happened to me, but i have heard some storys of this happening, safety first my friend. Edited June 18, 2006 by sonofsam Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rippthrough 98 Posted June 18, 2006 (edited) Can't offer much assistance with this i'm afraid, had to settle for tidying the roughly cut edges of the ports on my manifolds and head with wet n dry, but i'd be very interested to hear the results of your efforts. Are you leaving the walls of the ports smooth or rough when you've opened them out? I read somewhere (Tuning for Performance and Economy, by A. G. Bell) that the slightly rough internal surface of inlet manifolds is to do with keeping the fuel vapour in suspension. When i find the book (i've recently moved), i'll dig the article out if you want. We roughed it up as it'll have fuel vapour going through it (single point injection). Managed to borrow a carbide cutter off a mate for the morning, used the to remove most of the material (took about, oh, 20 seconds per port with this...) then went back to the cutting discs to get the right profile. It's done and mounted up with 1.5mm PTFE gaskets anyway (manifold is now cool to the touch instead of too hot to touch). Engine is definately perkier, but I think that's down to the PTFE gaskets, we should really see the benefit when the XS head + cam goes on in a week or two (which the ports are matched to). No wonder you were'nt getting anywhere, while we are on the subject .Do not use a stone that has previously been used for hard metal, the soft metal can penetrate to the core heat up the hard metal rapidly and cause the stone to explode! never happened to me, but i have heard some storys of this happening, safety first my friend. My son mentioned something about this yesterday, something to do with the expansion rates of the two + the fact that the stones are porous. Edited June 18, 2006 by Rippthrough Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rippthrough 98 Posted June 18, 2006 (edited) Well, after letting it settle in and nipping everything else up, the report back is that there is definately more midrange, a just noticable amount more at the bottom end, and it feels a little happier at high rpm, though not really any quicker. It's also much better around town and in traffic, thanks the the PTFE gaskets, definately recommend getting a set to any TU owner. Edited June 18, 2006 by Rippthrough Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
