Mi16 Running Hot

[Veero 1]

Right had the Mi running now for a bit and even splashed out on a new 205 GTi rad for it since the old one was falling apart.

 

Coolant system is as follows:

This is what Im running

 

This is a pic I found today

 

Now when it's all warmed up and moving along at speed the temperature needle sits between the 4th and 5th marks on the temp gauge. As soon as I get into traffic and stop the needle rises to above the 5th mark and the fan comes on, usually the single fan doesnt cool it sufficiently so I have to put the blower on max, which then quickly does bring the temp down to where it usually sits.

 

Is this anything to do with the pumbing? I'm not running a water/oil coiler so that hose goes straight from the thermostat housing to header tank. Or is the 205 rad just not up to it and I should get a twin slimline fan with a manual override so when I get into traffic I just flick a switch for it?

 

Any ideas appreciated.

 

Veero

[Richie-Van-GTi 70 2 Cars]

Maybe try a different thermostat first as its cheap and easy, also if youve got a bonnet liner take it off and make sure the induction is away from hot air sources. Oil cooler wont make any difference to idle temperatures. Your pipework looks sound enough to me.

[ada205 2]

Mines piped like the diagram in the second pic. The pipe on the side of the stat housing is cut short, and bunged with the sad sensor.

 

The car runs a fraction over the 3rd bar in normal running, and never goes over the 4th as long as i'm moving, no matter have much stick i give it. Rise's slowly in traffic at this time off year, but still takes ages to get to the 5th and 6th bars. On cooler days, can leave the car ticking over for ages and wont go over half way. The car runs a standard 205 rad, has no sound proofing under the bonnet, and no vents. I dont no what stat is fitted though.

 

Not sure why theres a few different ways of doing the plumbing, but all i can say is that mine runs well piped like in the second pic.

Edited June 7, 2006 by ada205

[pug309twin40s 1]

that does sound abit too hot.

 

did you bleed the air out the system propely when you changed the radiator?

 

my mi16 goodwood sits about 1/4 way when moving and in traffic or left idling for awhile takes ages to rise up to 5th way.

 

cant remember which way the hoses are plumbed in.

 

and i have oil cooler.

[miamistu 1]

Is this anything to do with the pumbing? I'm not running a water/oil coiler so that hose goes straight from the thermostat housing to header tank.

 

You're just running a pipe from (1) to (2) in the picture below? Can this pipe not just be removed if you're not running the cooler. That's what I'm hoping to do - just block up the thermostat and expansion tank end and have one less pipe in the bay?

 

[Veero 1]

Hmm have got the pug spec thermostat in there, it's a crazy 2 stage one and yes it's definately been thoroughly bled.

 

Hmm could it be to do with the extra hose to the distribution block? I mean it seems a bit pointless having 2 pipes coming out the thermostat housing and going to the same place, albeit one via the heater matrix. Actually when I got the engine out the BX it had one of the pipes on the distribution block bunged and I still have that bung so could easily block it off and see what happens.

 

Just seems weird that it should be so warm when so many others run fine...

 

Veero

 

Edit: Yes Miamistu I have a hose running from 1 --> 2

Edited June 7, 2006 by Veero

[pug309twin40s 1]

hmm yes you dont need the extra hose of the distribution block at the bk.

 

remove the hose from the distribution block to the bk of the thermostat housing. then connect the hose from the heater matrix to bk of the thermostat hosuing and block of the extra connection on distribution block and connection on side of thermostat housing.

 

then see if that improves the temps.

[Veero 1]

Ok, will have a go this w/e if I get far enough along the list of jobs...

 

Cheers

Veero

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

The hose from the pic (2) should go to the small outlet on the Stat housing as this lets any air get out, That why the header tank should sit higher than the engine.

But Veero your system is fine but I do all mine with the 3 water way as found in the 405/BX, Just follow the 205 route and I;ve always run normal temps, Extra fan's normally mean somethings wrong and your hiding a problem, One fan is more than enough in the UK.

Failing that what sender did you use, These can vary too

[Veero 1]

The hose from the pic (2) should go to the small outlet on the Stat housing as this lets any air get out, That why the header tank should sit higher than the engine.

But Veero your system is fine but I do all mine with the 3 water way as found in the 405/BX, Just follow the 205 route and I;ve always run normal temps, Extra fan's normally mean somethings wrong and your hiding a problem, One fan is more than enough in the UK.

Failing that what sender did you use, These can vary too

 

That's what I was worried about, hiding something.

 

Im running the gauge temp sender that was in the thermostat housing that came from the BX. I also bought a new ECU temp sender.

 

Veero

[Dream Weaver 2]

I have mine as your first pic, with the fan wired to the Emerald and it always runs fairly cool, about the 2nd or 3rd white bar when warm.

[jackherer 543]

That's what I was worried about, hiding something.

 

Im running the gauge temp sender that was in the thermostat housing that came from the BX. I also bought a new ECU temp sender.

 

Veero

 

what about the fan switch in the radiator? if you put a lower value one in the fan will come on sooner and have more chance of cooling the rad.

[Veero 1]

what about the fan switch in the radiator? if you put a lower value one in the fan will come on sooner and have more chance of cooling the rad.

 

Ah good plan. I changed the rad fan switch about 10 months ago but im not sure what the value of the slow speed setting. I got it from ECP so chances are it was the wrong one.

 

Veero

[Veero 1]

Ok at the weekend before last, I took off the surplus hose, mainly because the thermostat block to pipe along the rocker cover had split and was dumping coolant every now and again. Also removing this pipe has improved access to the manifold bolts absolutely no end.

 

Now it seems to get up to temperature a little bit faster now but it still appears to be running fairly warm. In traffic it climbs quickly and yesterday the fan came on at the faster setting! Getting a bit worried since Im certain it shouldnt be this hot.

 

Anyway, Im running the Mi16 twin stage thermostat but only have one pipe coming out of the thermostat housing and the second stage thermostat part would be covering the pipe that goes from the thermostat housing to the heater matrix. Should I swap the thermostat for a single stage one? Also what is the lowest temperature stat you can get since presumably if it is lower it will open faster and circulate the water through the rad sooner and run cooler?

 

Also what is the lowest rating rad fan switch they make? I had thought about running a manual override but would prefer it to turn the fan on automatically.

 

Any ideas appreciated, Im worried my baby is running too hot

 

Veero

[pacey205 2]

Well I think mine runs a little hot as well, its plumed in as per this diagram keeping the pipes around the back of the head.

 

 

Mine tends to sit at the 4th bar when driving normally, 4 1/2 sat on the motorway at 4K and above, and easily gets up the 5th bar in town driving. It never gets above that though the fans cool it down well enough.

 

Mine also has the original 2 stage thermostadt fitted as well.

 

Mind you it has been pretty hot recently so I doubt this helps but still

 

Michael

Edited July 15, 2006 by pacey205