Help With Mi16 Loom

[Mad Professor 7]

Hi All.

 

Yes it's yet another Mi16 Loom post, And yes I have been had a few looks with the good old Search Button.

 

As most of you should know by now I am helping my mate phill do an Mi16 Conversion to his pug.

After him buying a engine and trying to run the 8v bit's on it, we are not sure that there is a problem with that engine.

 

So phill has brought a 2nd Mi16 engine complate with Mi16 loom ecu, ect.

 

I have been looking over the loom, and the 1st thing that pops into mind is this loom is way to big so I will have to trim it down abit.

 

Also there are quite a few wires / connecters I am unsure about witch is why I need your help.

Please see below pic's.

 

Here we have the ECU Connecter, But I have no idear about the other cables.

 

 

Here we have two relays, From what I have read I guess this is the Power & Fuel Relay.

Also unsure about the other two conecters tho.

 

 

This single wire I also have no idear, Maybe an earth?

 

 

Here we have 4x Gray 2Pin Conectors, Witch I guess are the 4 Injectors.

1x Blue 2Pin Connector, Witch I guess is the ECU temp sensor.

1x Black 2Pin Connector, Witch I guess is the Mi16 SAD or IAC.

1x Black 2Pin Connector, Witch I guess is for the TPS.

1x Yellow Wire, No Idear.

1x Gray Wire, No Idear.

 

 

Here we have a Blue Spade type wire, I guess maybe power feed.

1x Black 6Pin Connector, I guess AFM.

1x Black 3Pin Connector, No Idear.

 

 

Here we have a Black 7Pin Connector, I guess Ign Amp.

1x Brown Wire, No Idear.

1x Yellow Wire, No Idear.

1x Green Wire, No Idear.

 

 

Can anyone please confirm what wires, and or connectors are what.

 

 

Thanks...

[d-9 0]

This is a BX wiring loom.

 

First pic - yellow wire, white spade is the fuelpump live, dont need to connect the other two (thou im guessing one is k light and the other might be the feed to up the revs when the AC is on)

 

Second pic - yep fuel and ignition relays, obviously you need new relays. Dunno what the green wire with the spade is, never used it, black plug is the diag plug.

 

third pic - no idea, never noticed that in any of my looms, probably not important

 

fourth pic- 4 grey plugs are injectors, blue two pin is ecu temp sender, black 2 pin is the Idle Control Valve (ICV), black 3 pin is the TPS. If the yellow and grey wires have round screw tags on the end they are earths that should be screwed down on the fuel rail.

 

Fifth pic - blue wire goes onto the power distro block by the battery, its the main live for the ECU. Black 5 pin is AFM, black 3 pin is crank sensor which lives in a hole on top of the box.

 

Sixth pic- Black plug is ignition amp, brown plug is coil, brown wire is earth, yellow wire is switched live, green wire is the rev counter.

 

I usually just make a big bundle with the excess wire as past experiments of trying to solder this wire have not been very successful.

Edited April 22, 2006 by d-9

[Ryan 99]

1st pic: Yellow=fuel pump. The other 2 I'm not sure. My loom has a black plastic thing containing a single resistor pluged between them which I think is something to do with telling the ECU about the fuel octane, but the only info I can find is vauxhall related, so I don't know exactly how it affects the pug/citroen ECUs.

 

The single wire in the 2nd pic is the diagnostic light for the dash. If you want to use it you need to make a slight adjustment to the circuit on the back of the clocks though.

Edited April 22, 2006 by RyanMoore

[Pugnut 9 1 Cars]

instead of wiring the k light into its proper place you could wire it to an led and wire mini toggle switch into it so that you can even interrogate the ecu's fault codes at any time .

 

[d-9 0]

be good to know how you wired that up (im too lazy to search tonight).

[Ryan 99]

The loose choke light connection under the dash also has the correct wiring to use as a k-light if you don't want to (or can't be arsed to) take the clocks out and modify them.

[Mad Professor 7]

I have read in some post, that same peps are still using the old 205 Tach Relay, But others are not.

 

Is it best to keep or bin the 205 Tach Relay?

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

Bin all the original 205 ecu loom & tachymetric relay.

 

Graham.

[petert 550]

The loose choke light connection under the dash also has the correct wiring to use as a k-light if you don't want to (or can't be arsed to) take the clocks out and modify them.

 

Yes, I use the choke light for the K light. It's green, wire 75 from memory, and hangs loose under the dash. You should hook it up so you can see any fault codes on start up.

[Mad Professor 7]

pugtorque: you say bin all the 205 loom, but don't I still need half of the loom for the dash sensor's?

 

Also can anyone please confirm that the BX ECU is the same size as the 205 one, or at least that it will still fit in the place of the old 205 one?

 

Also I am trying to find the pin-out's for the ecu, but can't find anything atm.

Edited April 24, 2006 by Mad Professor

[d-9 0]

You need to pull the loom out of the car, strip the stuff you need out and splice it into the BX loom, so you throw away the old ECU wiring and leaving the sensor wiring (and wires for tacho, fuel pump, switched live).

 

The BX loom is not the same size as the 205 one, and the mounting holes are in different places. However because the BX loom is so fecking long, I find the passenger footwell is a good place for the short term until youve fixed all the less cosmetic and more critical problems.

Edited April 24, 2006 by d-9

[Ryan 99]

Also I am trying to find the pin-out's for the ecu, but can't find anything atm.

For the 2-row (35-pin) ECU:

 

1. Ignition amp pins 5&6

2. Throttle switch pin 2 (idle)

3. Throttle switch pin 3 (wide-open)

4. Diagnostic socket pin 2

5. Earth

6. Airflow meter pin 4

7. Airflow meter pin 2

8. -

9. Airflow meter pin 3

10. -

11. -

12. Diagnostic socket pin 1

13. Coolant temp sensor pin 2

14. Injectors pin 1

15. -

16. Earth

17. Engine management light

18. Battery positive

19. -

20. Fuel pump relay pin 2

21. -

22. Airflow meter pin 5

23. Flywheel sensor pin 2

24. -

25. Flywheel sensor pin 1

26. -

27. -

28. -

29. Air conditioning (not connected if a/c not fitted)

30. Airflow meter pin 1

31. -

32. Air conditioning (not connected if a/c not fitted)

33. Idle valve pin 1

34. -

35. ECU relay pin 5

 

You might find that pins 12 & 17 are the other way around. This isn't a problem, the blade terminal is still the k-light connection regardless if whether it's connected to pin 12 or 17.

[Mad Professor 7]

RyanMoore: Thats for the info.

I can now cut down the BX loom, and test all the wiring.

 

Wish me luck. pmsl.

[Veero 1]

Does anyone have that info for the 3 row ECU with knock sensor from the BX?

 

Also the 3 row loom is slightly different from the pictured one here. The relays are right by the ECU plug, along with the fuel pump and 2 other spades, is one of these others the diagnostics light and is it simply a case of connecting it to wire number 76 as said above?

 

If so this could be very useful for me at the mo what with being plagued by gremlins.

 

Thanks

Veero

[petert 550]

I think I've posted it before. If not, I'll do it now.

 

The diagnostic switch goes to pin 1 of M720, wires 4A-17.

 

I posted a guide in this thread:

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...25entry410025

Edited April 24, 2006 by petert

[d-9 0]

Thanks very much for that, dont spose you happen to have a copy of the 3 row diagnostics manual? I have one for the 2 row ecu that tells you what resistances you should expect at each pin on the ecu which is very helpful for identifying dodgy wring or sensors.

[petert 550]

Thanks very much for that, dont spose you happen to have a copy of the 3 row diagnostics manual?

 

Yes, but I need to buy a new scanner and do it in PDF. Those pages above (and the diagnostic thread) are from the manual.

[d-9 0]

ahh that'd be awesome if you could post it at some point.

 

The 2 row manual i mean is very brief (suspect its an extract off a larger manual) and is titled "Injection System Specification and Inspection"

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

pugtorque: you say bin all the 205 loom, but don't I still need half of the loom for the dash sensor's?

I said bin all the ecu loom not the sensor loom, the only wires you need to seperate are the fuel pump wire, rev counter & coil / ignition module feeds for joining into the Mi loom.

 

BX ecu is exactly the same size as the 205 one & will fit into the standard place under the dash. Its just the extra length of BX wiring that makes it a pain.

 

Graham.

[d-9 0]

BX ecu is exactly the same size as the 205 one & will fit into the standard place under the dash. Its just the extra length of BX wiring that makes it a pain.

 

Graham.

 

No its not, the BX motronic ECU is a differnt size to the 205's Motronic ecu and wont fit without modification to the backing plate that the ecu screws onto.

[jackherer 543]

No its not, the BX motronic ECU is a differnt size to the 205's Motronic ecu and wont fit without modification to the backing plate that the ecu screws onto.

 

they fit on diagonally to two of the four mounting screws...

[d-9 0]

ooo thats good to know, i never tried, just held the two ecus side by side and chucked the new one in the foot well.

[Veero 1]

Cheers Petert for thsoe diagrams, got home tonight, unplugged the ECU and the ICV and temp sender checked the connections and lo and behold I had the two plugged in the wrong way round.

 

My bad

 

Veero

[Mad Professor 7]

I am half way tho remaking the looms.

I should have it all ready for when the ECU turn's up tomowz.

 

I will post some pic's when I am done, just to make sure it looks right to eveyone.

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

No its not, the BX motronic ECU is a differnt size to the 205's Motronic ecu and wont fit without modification to the backing plate that the ecu screws onto.

 

So you can rewire a car but not turn an ecu through a few degrees to get it to fit onto the standard ecu mounting plate?? Hardly rocket science.

 

Graham.