Calling Paintguy

[Adnic69 0]

I have put my first coat of primer on the 205 and all went on fine apart from the part in the picture. It is where the black plastic door trim comes. The reaction is happening at the bottom of the trim. I have no idea what is causing it. I sanded it down again and sprayed again but the same happend.

 

Any ideas?

[Jonmurgie 2]

Is there supposed to be a picture in this thread?

[Adnic69 0]

haha

there is yeah

 

http://gallery.seloc.org/index.php?cat=22473

[Jonmurgie 2]

Oh dear, you have to be logged in (fortunately I am registered on SELOC) want me to host the pic for you quickly?

[Adnic69 0]

Oh dear, you have to be logged in (fortunately I am registered on SELOC) want me to host the pic for you quickly?

 

 

There a a few pics on there but you could show all the 205 rebuild ones. That would be great.

You got an elise too?

[Jonmurgie 2]

http://www.canong3.co.uk/Adnic69/DSC00235.JPG

http://www.canong3.co.uk/Adnic69/DSC00236.JPG

http://www.canong3.co.uk/Adnic69/DSC00237.JPG

http://www.canong3.co.uk/Adnic69/DSC00238.JPG

http://www.canong3.co.uk/Adnic69/DSC00239.JPG

http://www.canong3.co.uk/Adnic69/DSC00240.JPG

http://www.canong3.co.uk/Adnic69/DSC00260.JPG

http://www.canong3.co.uk/Adnic69/DSC00261.JPG

http://www.canong3.co.uk/Adnic69/DSC00262.JPG

http://www.canong3.co.uk/Adnic69/DSC00263.JPG

 

No I don't have an Elise, but my best mate does so I sometimes see what's going on

[Martin@PRD 0]

I had the same problem; turned out to be the yellow Halfords filler primer I used was sensitive to solvent attack from the grey primer. (Crows feet)

 

Best thing you can do is going out and purchase U-POL isolator, rub down the areas again and apply U-Pol in light coats. This will block out solvent attack all together

[Adnic69 0]

Great thanks.

Will i get this in Halfords?

[jamesc 3]

 

Snap!

Edited April 5, 2006 by jamesc

[Martin@PRD 0]

I had a look in our Halfords around here, though unfortunately they didn't

[Paintguy 0]

Somebody called?

 

 

Maybe it's just my eyes, but I can't see what you're refering to very clearly in those pics. As Martin says, it'll be the solvents in the primers attacking something underneath. If it's in a straight line underneath where the door moulding/trim was, then I'd say it's highly likely that the bottom of the door has been painted before, and your primer is getting underneath the edge of paint where it was masked up to the trim.

 

Text book method is strip down to bare metal and start from scratch.

 

An isolator over it (like U-Pol Barcoat) is another method, that should do the trick. I've tried it myself to good effect in the past, but I don't like doing it because really you're just covering up the problem, rather than curing it. It may well be the best way forward for you though, just don't sand through the Barcoat anywhere, or you'll have the same problem again!

 

Finally, you can cheat!

Again, not exactly 'text book', but it's helped me out of a few scrapes: Try applying your primer more dryly over that area. It's easier to do with a spray gun, as you can feather back the paint output, but still achievable with a rattlecan.

 

Get the area nice and warm, and try and have some warm air circulating (heat gun, hairdryer), then spray from a bit further away using light coats. You're trying to get most of the sovlents to evaporate before the primer hits the surface. That way they're much less likely to react with what's underneath. You don't want it too dry and powdery, or it'll not adhere properly, and it might take a few attempts; spray a light coat, let it dry, sand out any minor reaction, than apply some more.

 

After a few coats, you should have enough build on there to be able to start putting thicker coats on, but still don't go too heavy with it, and dry it of with some warm air as quick as you can.

[Adnic69 0]

Thanks for the reply.

Can i just use fine surface filler and fill over the reacting area?

[Paintguy 0]

Yes, if it's deep enough to need it.