Replacing My Engine

[Guest Quakes]

Hey as i have changed clutches and pumps and the usually things that go on cars i decided to have a go at swapping the engine :/ . Spent about 5 hours yesturday stripping the old engine ready for removal the manifolds are off, the wiring and pipes are disconnected air system and fueling is all out. so i think its just the gear linkage and the driveshafts to go.

 

Anyhow ive got an engine crane coming tommorow and im having problems removing the driveshafts the droplinks are knackered and the bolts wont come off so im gonna angle grind them tommorow. but i cant get the hub off the wishbone i took the bolt out that closes the cup around the ball but i just cant seem to free it is there a special tool i need ive tried tapping the arm out levering and tried opening the cover a bit but still wont budge.

 

So basically anyone know of a tool that will make it easier or a good diy way to do it?

 

Cheers Jono

[matt205xs 0]

have you tried unscrewing the 3 nuts supporting the struts in the engine bay, this may give you more movement to get the pin out, think they usually come out pretty easy

[GLPoomobile 958]

Ball joint seperator? Only cost a fiver!

[kate205gti 4]

fork-type ball joint seperator is a godsend! then just a very large breaker bar and a big hammer

 

what droplink bolts are you indoing? afaik the only bolts you need to undo for the driveshaft is the two rectangular 11mm bolts on the drivers side driveshaft? everything else just stays in place

[Richie-Van-GTi 70 2 Cars]

cheat if you want and just pull the wishbones off with hub attached.

[ashlee205gti 1]

I use the handle for my trolley jack, positioned carefully enough so that it doesn't slip and put a hole in the driveshaft rubber. Put your back into it and prise at apart.

[Guest Quakes]

cheers guys think ill get the ball joint seperator. i tried the breaker bar but couldnt get the leverage. i tried to remove the drop links as i have new ones to go but they just keep turning so a quick game of diamond vs metal should do the trick.

 

Thanks for your replys Jono

[jonnie205 1]

Ok, a fork type ball joint separator should be used on any ball joint that is going to be re used. They always wreck the dust cover on ball joint and should be avoided at all costs. The other type of ball joint separator (bolt wind up one) are not designed for that type of ball joint. Ball joint separators are only realy used for tapered ball joints like TRE ones or front wishbones or TCA's that have tapered joints. On a 205 you should just hit arm down with a lump hammer as close as you can to ball joint. Levers are ok but can bend things if operator is a bit gun ho. If joint wont budge try turning steering or slightly jacikng hub

[ashlee205gti 1]

Remove the dirt from the droplinks, if you look carefully theres a notch on the otherside that you can attach a spanner to so you can undo them. I think the bottom bolt has an allen key hole.

[stevec205gti 0]

Remove the dirt from the droplinks, if you look carefully theres a notch on the otherside that you can attach a spanner to so you can undo them. I think the bottom bolt has an allen key hole.

 

Have a look at the new ones and you'll find out where the allen key holes are - caught me out when I first changed one!

[Guest Quakes]

Just to update the drop links must be pretty old as they have neither the allen key hole or the nut that the new links have but thats not a problem as its a simple one for the angle grinder.

 

Got the driveshafts out ( the ball joints just needed quite alot of lump hammer force ) and gear linkage just waiting for the engine crane to arrive now might clean up the TB while im waiting

 

cheers guys Jono

[DaveK 0]

hip hip hooray for angle grinders!! i remember last year when my bro wrote off his saxo the day after he bought it....what a mess it was....angle grinding everything was brilliant fun lol

[GLPoomobile 958]

Remove the dirt from the droplinks, if you look carefully theres a notch on the otherside that you can attach a spanner to so you can undo them. I think the bottom bolt has an allen key hole.

 

I wondered why the buggers just kept turning when I tried to undo them

[Guest Quakes]

Ok guys decided to take a break and add an update and again ask for advice gotta love this forum.

 

The engine is now out YIPEE ! (theres no smiley for extatic , ) Battery tray was a nightmare should never of left it in and the exhaust manifold wish i had got that off first now

 

Firstly a few wires on the wiring loom are knackered, the oil and water tempreature ones whats the best plan of action to get wire the same resistance and terminal block it on ?

 

Secondly i have uploaded pics of my engine bay and the engine was wandering if anyone could tell me of any major faults that scream out at them

 

Engine Removal Pics 33 - 37 there quite big and only hosted on dsl

 

The drivers side upper engine mount has split i will search the forum later for answers on that one tho.

 

And best way to clean it all up but as above thats gonna be well searchable

 

Cheers guys Jono

[kate205gti 4]

ooh piccy contest ur missing the spring bolts to the mani any reason you didnt undo them and take the mani out with the engine? any why did you take fuel rail off? whats the red wire too? stereo??

 

hoses are generic bendy ones - might be worth replacing with proper pug ones

 

i just cleaned up my engine bay up with a can of motorcycle degreaser and some newspaper/kitchen roll http://forum.frenchsportsclub.com/index.php?showtopic=1795came up spangley

[Guest btwstripe]

quick useful tip for the future, when disconnecting the ball joints, disconnect and remove the track rod end first, then the retaining bolt for the ball joind, now turn the hub as much away from you as possible and use a chisel/punch to widen the gap on the ball joint retainer then simply (sometimes!!) lever out!

[Richie-Van-GTi 70 2 Cars]

pop a new speedo cable in as well, looks like its creased at the bottom, plus its loads easier with an empty bay.

[Guest Quakes]

One of the spring bolts on the manifold is rounded off so im gonna put the angle grinder on it tommorow.

 

I took the fuel rail off to get at the inlet manifold with the ratchet im against spanners

 

The red wire is my sub/amp power lead the bass has to be just right

 

Gonna use degresser in a min to clean the bay and the box.

 

and ill take a trip down to pug tommorow bend over and ask them how much a new set of hoses are

 

cheers for your post kate

 

thanks btwstripe tis very useful to know for the future

 

would a new speedo cable stop the speedo jumping all over the place? cant tell if im stationary or doing 60 :/

 

Cheers Jono

[Richie-Van-GTi 70 2 Cars]

yes new cable will solve the needle bounce

[Guest Quakes]

woohoo one new cable coming right up cheers richie

[Guest pistonbroke]

For what it is worth, I have always taken the front panel and rad out completely as it only takes an extra few mins to do, but gives you loads more space, also far less chance of damaging the rad.

 

As your top engine mount has died, it may be worth looking at a complete new set of mounts, as I have found that a knackered bottom mount will also make speedo jump about.

 

If your thinking of putting a quick shift on, do it now. Only takes 5 mins with engine out and bloody ages with engine in.

[Guest Quakes]

Ok really need some advice now :/

 

ive been doing a drive around today after extending the rental on the engine crane to monday looking for an engine mount and hoses as i want to get them done before the engine goes in but peugeot and the part shops around dont have the mounts or hoses ( peugeot does but would have to order and it would be over a week i have even tried the scrap yards. what would you do in this situation? only thing i can think is performance hoses

from a styling shop or a diy shop but are car hoses specific or can they just be made up?

 

and i havent a clue what to do about the engine mount other then to drop the engine back in leave it on a jack and wait till i can get it. :/

 

Any help is appreciated.

 

Cheers Jono

[jim205GTI 3]

have you tried a gsf or europarts store? they might have the pipes and mounts?? a few online places like pugspares might but i don't know the delivery times

Edited February 25, 2006 by jim205GTI

[Guest Quakes]

i decided to put the new engine in today with the bad mounts as the crane has to go back tommorow and i can always get the mount sorted with the engine in. I took the hoses i needed from my other 205 one has a small crack so i will have to keep an eye on it

 

Only problem i have now is the sensor (that goes into the bottom of the sump ) wire is broken and i cant see what part of the loom it came from will connect everything up tommorow and have a look and i have to find a tool to do the sump drain plug up.

 

Cheers Jono

[Higgy 0]

i decided to put the new engine in today with the bad mounts as the crane has to go back tommorow and i can always get the mount sorted with the engine in. I took the hoses i needed from my other 205 one has a small crack so i will have to keep an eye on it

 

Only problem i have now is the sensor (that goes into the bottom of the sump ) wire is broken and i cant see what part of the loom it came from will connect everything up tommorow and have a look and i have to find a tool to do the sump drain plug up.

 

Cheers Jono

 

Its usually a nice long (single) wire that has got crispy from the exhaust heat. Its for the oil temp, so its not too important (especially this time of year!).