Questions About The 205 Rear Beam

[Guest shameless]

Hi everybody,

 

I'm hoping that the guys & girls on this site might beable to advice me on a couple of things.

I've had a read of the buying guides on the site and have done a search on this forum, but I still have a couple of questions.

These questions are in relation to the rear beam of the 205 Gti and it other 'weak spots'.

I need to know what are the worrying signs and how to inspect for these.

I have a pretty good motor vehicle engineering back ground but no experience of the 205 and its common problems.

 

When viewing a car I'll only have a tourch, overalls and gloves.

 

So how to look for and notice the tell tale signs is where I need the help.

Regards S.

[ashlee205gti 1]

Rear beam will need a re-build anyway if it hasn't had one in the not so distant past. Key things that can help determine if a rear beam is scrap or servicable are squeaking over bumps and getting in and out of the car, is it seized? and also check the camber on the rear wheels, wear patterns on the rear tyres etc.

[Guest shameless]

Thanks Ashlee,

I understand the beam has been checked on this car, so I want to know how to check its all ok myself.

So I'll look at the rear wheel camber and check for squeaks on the test drive, I also thought of seating on the rear of the car with tail gate open and puting my 16 st to use to see if there is any sqeaks/creaking on the up and down movement.

Is there anything anthing else you guys can surgest I look at. How do you guys look at it?

What about under the car?

 

Regards S

[Maerten 0]

They usually deteriorate in the following order:

 

1. More and more negative camber

2. Making noises

3. Seizing

 

I believe the normale value is '50 (minutes) negative camber. So they can have a little camber, but not too much. (too much being 1 degree 20 minutes and above according to the person who did the tracking on my 205 recently)

 

If it isnt seized, isnt making noises, and there's not too much camber on the wheels it should be ok. It's hard to say for how long if it hasnt had a rebuild yet. My right hand rear wheel has gone from -1 degree and 19 minutes to almost -2 degrees of camber in a year. (without handbrake turns or lots of provoked oversteer etc)

 

Good luck with the purchase

[Guest shameless]

Thanks Maerten,

 

I undrestand that items like this can go quickly or last, I just want to know what to look for and how, so as to hopefully not have a rebuild to soon.

 

All this info is great, hope to get more as it all helps, thanks.

S

[ashlee205gti 1]

The buying guides on the website are quite good, any other advice is to just use common sense as you would with checking any other car. Bear in mind the age of the car, expect a rattly interior, a few car park dings and possible surface rust spots. The car in general are very resistant to the elements and any serious body rust/rot is a cause for concern.

 

If its a 1.9 your looking at, make sure its been run on Super Unleaded, normal unleaded will cause the engine to pink unless the ignition has been retarded, if it has been retarded then it wont be making the power it should. The engine should pull cleanly to the limiter in all gears. If you see 'mayonaise' in the oil filler cap then dont fret, its normal for this car. Its not normal however to find it on the dipstick. Check the coolant, it shouldn't smell or look like theres oil mixing with it.

[pug_ham 242 3 Cars]

To check a beam for condition & servicability;

• Stand a bit behind the car with it on flat level ground & check both wheels sit near vertical & not excessively cambered.
  
• On a test drive do a hill start & let the car roll back on the handbrake, the back should lift smoothly & evenly with no squeaking etc.
  

Don't mistake the boot squeaking on badly adjusted rubber buffers or a loose spare wheel tray for signs of a dead / dyi9ng rear beam.

 

Graham.

[danGTI 0]

A good way to test the movement of the beam out (an thus find squeeks or other odd noises) without driving it is to get someone to try and pull away with the handbrake on, the back end will dip up and down as power is applied so you can check for smoothness of movement. Parking facing uphill with the handbrake on is also another good way I used to find worked. Also check for the distance between the inside of the tyre and the arch, unless it's been lowered you should be able to fit your fingers in the space between them quite easily.

As said though, any beam that's not been done will by now need doing, mine was apparently fine on my old 109k H plat 1.6 with very little camber, but since I sold it and it's not been used every day i've been informed it's starting to make noises it didn't used to by the new owner

[Guest shameless]

Thanks Dan & Graham,

Will do the hill start and raise it in reverse, lower it in forward with handbrake on and listen/feel for anything odd.

I also think I'll be able to see the car in the air on a lift so I'll be able to get under it no bother. I've read an entry by Antony about checking for play in the trailing arming so will check this also. This should also allow me to see them both drop together.

 

When under the car is there any visual clues ie: are the seals and mounts etc visable?

 

Regards S

[jonD6B 0]

A good way to test the movement of the beam out (an thus find squeeks or other odd noises) without driving it is to get someone to try and pull away with the handbrake on, the back end will dip up and down as power is applied so you can check for smoothness of movement. Parking facing uphill with the handbrake on is also another good way I used to find worked. Also check for the distance between the inside of the tyre and the arch, unless it's been lowered you should be able to fit your fingers in the space between them quite easily.

As said though, any beam that's not been done will by now need doing, mine was apparently fine on my old 109k H plat 1.6 with very little camber, but since I sold it and it's not been used every day i've been informed it's starting to make noises it didn't used to by the new owner

 

 

Sorry to butt in but I have just tried the 'handbrake on' method and when trying to pull away forwards the back end dips down and back up nice and smoothly with no creaks or groans. If I try it in reverse the back lifts smoothly but drops back down with an obvious notch is this down to the brakes or the beam?