veloce200 3 Posted February 8, 2006 I've been speaking to a lot of customers about brakes recently, there's not doubt that there are bad pad and disc combinations on the market but I think that bad bed in technique is more often the cause of poor performance. Then again there are always those who just use the brakes too hard (disc and pad should not be changed together and if they are two different bed in techniques are required one after the other). Road use can be a lot harder than circuit use and there are many who just brake too hard on the track too. I've got some customers who use std discs and ds2500 who've done a whole season of sprints and 7 trackdays and thousands of miles getting to those trackdays. Their discs - undamaged, their pads - worn but still within limits. Others can munch a set of pads and discs in a flash. Probably the least checked but most important thing of all is run in. I just think it's worth bearing this in mind when people discuss one pad/disc versus another. Its a case of "it ain't what you got it's how you look after it..." Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rippthrough 98 Posted February 8, 2006 (edited) I've been speaking to a lot of customers about brakes recently, there's not doubt that there are bad pad and disc combinations on the market but I think that bad bed in technique is more often the cause of poor performance. Then again there are always those who just use the brakes too hard (disc and pad should not be changed together and if they are two different bed in techniques are required one after the other). Road use can be a lot harder than circuit use and there are many who just brake too hard on the track too. I've got some customers who use std discs and ds2500 who've done a whole season of sprints and 7 trackdays and thousands of miles getting to those trackdays. Their discs - undamaged, their pads - worn but still within limits. Others can munch a set of pads and discs in a flash. Probably the least checked but most important thing of all is run in. I just think it's worth bearing this in mind when people discuss one pad/disc versus another. Its a case of "it ain't what you got it's how you look after it..." I have to agree there, personally I always run them in gradually and build up more and more heat in the discs over around 15 minutes, then I'll start to pick up the pace a little, before being really gentle to let them cool off for 5 minutes before leaving them stood to go back cold. Always seems to work for me. Edit:- Then I take it easy on them for about 50miles and build up the pressure from there. 200 miles is overkill in my experience. Edited February 8, 2006 by Rippthrough Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hengti 2 Posted February 8, 2006 (edited) I've been speaking to a lot of customers about brakes recently, there's not doubt that there are bad pad and disc combinations on the market but I think that bad bed in technique is more often the cause of poor performance. Then again there are always those who just use the brakes too hard (disc and pad should not be changed together and if they are two different bed in techniques are required one after the other). Road use can be a lot harder than circuit use and there are many who just brake too hard on the track too. I've got some customers who use std discs and ds2500 who've done a whole season of sprints and 7 trackdays and thousands of miles getting to those trackdays. Their discs - undamaged, their pads - worn but still within limits. Others can munch a set of pads and discs in a flash. Probably the least checked but most important thing of all is run in. I just think it's worth bearing this in mind when people discuss one pad/disc versus another. Its a case of "it ain't what you got it's how you look after it..." Which method did you subscribe to for bedding in then? I've always gone the cautious route and avoided harsh/prolonged application for the first 200ml - but I know some people claim they're best run in by hammering them as soon as you've taken the car off the jack ... do you know what the reasoning behind that is? I've just worked out that the last set of (front) Greenstuff pads I had lasted about 60,000 miles (!!!! incredible now I think about it) - and I'm *really* hard on brakes on track Edited February 8, 2006 by hengti Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
veloce200 3 Posted February 8, 2006 Which method did you subscribe to for bedding in then? I've always gone the cautious route and avoided harsh/prolonged application for the first 200ml - but I know some people claim they're best run in by hammering them as soon as you've taken the car off the jack ... do you know what the reasoning behind that is? I've just worked out that the last set of (front) Greenstuff pads I had lasted about 60,000 miles (!!!! incredible now I think about it) - and I'm *really* hard on brakes on track I subscribe to your "slow and gentle" approach. You might be able to get away with quick bed in with new pads especially with fixed piston calipers which have less of a need for a leading edge to develop. Excuse the blatant company reference - I'm going to by a banner soon - can one of the admins email me the info please ! Brake Bed in Guide Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest rick03054 Posted February 8, 2006 (disc and pad should not be changed together and if they are two different bed in techniques are required one after the other). How long do you recommend should be left inbetween if both need changed? i/.e leave X miles/time after new discs to replace pads leave Y miles/time after new pads to replace discs I didn't know about this. But I usually have a 100 ish miles gentle braking period after I replace any brake components. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
veloce200 3 Posted February 8, 2006 (edited) generally on a road car when your discs need changing you change both (not ideal) but then pads and discs go on a lot longer and wear more unevenly Edited February 8, 2006 by veloce200 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
