Another Lower Mount Question...

[SamGTi 0]

I know there are loads of threads like this on the 'Searches' but I just wanted to clear a couple of things up for myself. To replace the lower engine mount, do you have to remove driveshafts and other things? Or is it simply a case of unbolting the old one and bolting on the new one?

 

Also, when I buy an uprated lower mount, I apparently have to get it pressed into the casing. Can any garage do this or do I have to go somewhere specialist?

 

Basically, ho hard is it to replace the lower mount coz mine is getting worse every day!

 

Thanks

[Ryan 99]

Getting the bush pressed in is a simple job that any garage should be able to do. If you ask nicely they often do it for nothing or for a few quid cash as it's only a 5 min job - especially if you take the old bush out yourself.

 

You need to take the driveshaft out though as it passes through the bracket that holds the bush.

[SamGTi 0]

Thanks Ryan!

[d-9 0]

The mount is in a lump of cast ally,with the bush pressed into it, it bolts onto the back of the block with 4 16mm bolts. As the long driveshaft goes through it, you have to remove the driveshaft to remove the mount. Its possible to do change the bush without removing the mount from the car, but that sounds like more hassle than its worth, easiest thing to do is remove the mount, cut the old bush out, with a knife/drill/hacksaw, making sure u remove the steel sleave that sits against the ally (you will probably need to saw through it then chisel it out). Then take it to the garage and get them to press the new one in, shouldnt cost much.

[Guest oli205]

What are the signs of an engine mount that needs replacing?

- I think I might need to give mine a tweak or something.

Cheers.

[Alastairh 47]

Badly Perished rubber really...

[Guest oli205]

Well if you tap the brake or accelerator, then you can feel a lot of give, as if something is loose and it makes a kind of knock noise. I'm guessing its the mount, but not really sure...

[Anthony 1,000]

Excessive drive train shunt is the usual first sign that the lower mount is on it's way out - basically the whole engine is rocking back and forth as you come on and off the power, since the mount is allowing too much movement.

 

Should only do it when going on and off throttle though, particularly in lower gears and higher revs (ie when there's the biggest engine braking effect) - if you only get the knocking noise when you press the brakes, it's likely to be something else.

[Guest oli205]

No, its definately that, always happens in low gears. I'll have a look at the engine mount today, check it over.

 

Cheers Anthony!

[GLPoomobile 958]

For the absolute easiest turn around with minimum downtime, I suggest getting a spare mount (not the bush, the actual mount) from a scrappy or a member here. Then, when you have your new bush, get it pressed in and you can swap the replacment mount over in about an hour. Driveshaft out job, not difficult.

 

IIRC, Stew205 can offer his uprated lower bush already pressed into a mount. You pay a surcharge and send him your old mount when you have fitted the replacement.

 

You need to find a garage with a hydraulic press.

 

Not all garages are clued up and will tell you that they can't do it.

 

The mount is tapered, so the bush needs to be pressed out and in from one side. This is maybe why some garages can't do it.

 

I paid about £10 to have mine pressed in. I had already spent ages cutting the old bush out but probably needn't have bothered since I had to get the new one pressed in anyway

 

I doubt any garage will do it for free unless you have a good relationship with them.

[jeremy 68]

You can actually bash the new mount in with a large hammer and a good bit of wood, but it takes ages, and you will mark the mount where it has been hit.

[Anthony 1,000]

You can actually bash the new mount in with a large hammer and a good bit of wood, but it takes ages, and you will mark the mount where it has been hit.

A large vice works wonders for pressing the new mount in (if you've got access to one)

[MartinM 0]

Pulled my new "Group A" bush in with a long 10mm bolt, a plate to straddle the hole and a plate to take the strain on the bush itself.

 

No taking off the mount, no marks on mount, no hammering etc. Pretty easy really.

 

The bush goes in from the (offside) wheel side, towards the centre of the car

[GLPoomobile 958]

And that's why I'm rubbish at this sort of thing....I don't have the ingenuity to come up with ideas like that!

[Guest oli205]

Haha, same here poomobile! I need to order a brand new bush then and I'll post a message in the wanted section here to get a mount... I'm not sure about any garages with a hydraulic press, I try to stay away from them usually, so I don't have a good relationship with any :s

[rossimura 0]

Just drifted my new bush into a spare alloy mounting, I'll be submitting a fitting guide shortly.

 

I ended up hammering mine in with a brass drift cos I could'nt get it setup on the press properly, doesn't take long about 15 minutes to drift it in. (looks like it won't fit but it does)

 

Yeah I agree best bet is to buy a spare one from a scrap yard and do a straight swap, but you can do all the work yourself without a press.

[Guest oli205]

Cool, I'll wait for you to get the guide up before fitting it

cheers rossi

[rossimura 0]

Oooo I wouldn't wait too long cos I'm a slow worker....

 

Heres a brief guide to how I did it :

 

(Assuming your taking it off the car as well.)

 

1. prop up the front of the car so you can easily get access underneath (axel stands, or I prefer huge blocks of wood).

2. Take off drivers side wheel

3. Remove the bottom wishbone ball joint. 16mm bolt will probably be stripped or bent so buy a new one before you start this)

4. Pop the ball joint out the hub

5. Be careful not to pull the drive shaft apart (See the gearbox swapping guide)

6. slacken the 11mm drive shaft bearing clamp nuts and rotate the fork thingys to allow the the drive shaft to be moved, may need to drift the bearing out CAREFULLY. (again see the gearbox swapping guide)

7. There is no need to completely remove the driveshaft just needs to clear the bearing housing, also take care not to disturb the gearbox oil seal.

8. 4 x 14 mm bolts hold the alloy engine mount in place remove these and the one from the sub frame. (you will probably need a T bar with an extension for the very top one)

9. note the Alloy mount may seem stuck as it is located using dowels, a light tap should do it. If it still doesnt come off check for more bolts / obstructions

10. You should now be able to move the engine and remove the mount. If you find it tricky remove the mount from the sub frame as well. (This may be tight and rusty)

11. With the alloy mount removed drill out the rubber bit.

12. Now use a proper size hacksaw to CAREFULLY cut the steel housing. (See poly suspension bush replacement guides). I took abit of time over this so as not to mark the inside of the alloy mount.

In the end I made two cuts and drifted out the bush with an alloy drift or carefully with a big screw driver.

13. Clean up the inside of the alloy mount with sand paper I used about 120 grade or something.

14. Your bottom bush if it came from Stew will have a slight chamfer on one side to allow it to fit easier this end goes in first.

15. Position the alloy mount on a bench with the flat part of the bush housing on the bench. The upper part is slightly chamfered so you can't get it level. Some people may think it would be better to go in from the other side but it is hard to get it started evenly.

16. Next part is hard unless like me you are used to fitting head races / bearings to mountain and motorbikes. Use a little lubricant on the inside of the alloy mount (probably does nothing), I also warmed up the alloy part of the mount using a hot air gun (cos it was a very very cold day). You could freeze the bush (I use a freezer for motorbike headraces) but it probably wont do much.

17. If you get it wrong and the bush doesn;t drive squarely into the alloy mount knock it back out and start again DONT keep trying to bash it in, lots of light evenly distributed taps with a hammer and brass drift are needed.

18. Once it starts to go you will know you've got it right... took about 15-20 minutes to drift flush in the alloy mount once I had got it started.

19. If unsure take it to a garage with a press, but I had trouble with my press due to the shape of the mount (this is why I ended up doing the old fashioned way)

20. Fit back to the car as per the removal instructions, only grease all the bolts you put back in, grease the drive shaft bearing housing in the Alloy mount (so it comes out easily next time ), and be carefully not to kill the drive shaft seal when you push the drive shaft back in.

21. Oh yeah double check all the fasteners, and top up the gearbox oil if needed.

22. Set off the car and dont be alarmed by all the vibrations (these get better after 1000 miles appartently)

 

 

Hope this helps its all the text I've got at the mo, I've got pictures but I need to sort it all out. Its not a hard job just very time consuming to do it right.

This is why I recommend getting another alloy mount from a breakers yard. If you do it on another car yourself in a breakers yard you can get a good idea of what to do before you attack your pride and joy.

 

If I've missed out I'm sure someone will let us know