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hcmini1989

2.0 mi16 cooling modifaction

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hcmini1989

hi all

 

getting to the next stage with my 2.0 s16 engjne conversion

 

coolant system.

 

im stuck with the coolant distubion block...im looking to swap to a 205 gti one to reduce the amount of hoses (the 306 one is also in poor condition )

 

am i ok to do away with the metal pipes that run across the engjne (one has a bleed screw in/goes to thermostat housing) ....i know its common to blank the lower metal hose on the back

 

am i also ok to blank the header tank top hose (top left hose)as nowhere for this to go to (no oil cooler or throttle body cooling) 

 

im using a baker bm hose kit with a bleed screw in top heater hose 

 

lastly can someone advise me of bolt size for the two that mount the distubtion block

 

im guesing m8×1.25 ..  i dont have old ones to compare as the engine didnt come with any

 

thank you for any help

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SRDT

https://www.miamistu.co.uk/pug/GB/405N/1/12A40A.HTM

6923 78 02 8X125-25

 

As for the 205 part I don't think it fits on the XU10J4 block.

https://www.miamistu.co.uk/pug/GB/205F/1/13E21A.HTM

https://www.miamistu.co.uk/pug/GB/205N/1/13E21A.HTM

 

You could have the XU10J4 outlet welded, if not try to get 1336.A6 from a XU10J2, it's made out of plastic but it has as much outlets as the 205 one.

 

Another potential problem is the radiator hose diameter : on the 205 it was reduced to 32mm since 12/1991, I don't know how it is on the XU10.

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welshpug

i have a vague memory that the iron blocks have the two holes drilled at a different angle to the alloy block, ao either retaining the hose or blanking it off would be the route to take rather than changing the takeoff.   

 

the oem solution on quite a few engines at some point was a blanking piece, silicone aftermarket ones are readily available as well.

 

bypassing the throttle heater is no issue, done this on my 8v.

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hcmini1989

might be asking alot here haha ...does anyone have a registation of a 306 s16...ive called my local stellantis ...i was told the part numbers above dont help ...i need a 10 digit number or 5 digit number ...... or if possible a mail order pug supplier.....my local pug are difficult to say the least

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petert
Posted (edited)

Use the XU10J4 block. Hacksaw off the barbs you don't need. Turn up some blanking plugs on the lathe and TIG weld them in. The block is easy to weld. In the pic below I've welded an AN10 fitting to one of the barbs.

Remove the heater bypass tube which runs from the thermostat housing to the distribution block. Tap and plug the hole(s).

IMG_6717.jpg

IMG_6720.jpg

XU10J4 Thermostat Housing.jpg

IMG_7693.jpg

Edited by petert
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hcmini1989

thanks everyone....hopefully pick up gasket/plug/bolts on monday ...managed to find a 306 s16 reg on google..to work from

 

petert....those pictures are beatiful....i wish i had the capabilty to tig/turn the housing haha..sadly ill have to use silicone plugs for now

 

ill get this sorted and then im sure something else will crop up...15yr project so far haha 

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petert

Surely there is an engineering place close by? Do it nice or do it twice.

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SRDT

If they're not so sure about welding parts like these show them Peter's pictures to prove that it can be done.

Older XU9 alloy ones are indeed very nasty and anyone who tried to TIG weld them once won't try it twice.

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