0237009063 / 86 1.6 Distributor Interchangeable?

[ALEX 101 1 Cars]

As Title.  I can see why Bosch did the Mod on the later 086. Screw cap is more secure, and the Fly lead comes out at a better angle.

The 063 Fly Lead comes straight out and is held in place with a fork. Mine has been mashed and bent back with the HT cable holder damaging the wire. From looking at the 2nd hand wires available, it seems I'm not the only one whose done this.  

 

I've replace the wire with a 4 core shielded wire (doubling up on the connectors), I haven't found the right gauge 2 core shield wire yet, but the 4 core seems to work fine. The wire now also goes directly into the Ignition module, as I bought the car with the plugs missing (was twisted and taped together). So even if I bought the correct cable I'd have to find the other part for the loom.

Luckily I have a bag of new Bosch female spade connectors, so I can re-pin most plugs on the car.   

 

I'm looking to get mine  (063) reconditioned but parts like the fly lead are hard to come by, So alternatively would a 086 be a straight swap?

I'm guessing the Fly lead is the same if I cut off the plug and connect it directly to MY Ign Amp?

Would anything else be different? mounting face? Timings? 

 

I'm not too bothered about originality here. Engine has been replaced with a B6E keeping the 113 tooth Timing belt (spring type tensioner fitted with B6D Pump and covers).

Head has been machined and the resultant CR should be about the same as the B6D.  As far as I'm aware the AFM, ECU, Coolant temp sensor, TPS, Injectors are all the same for the 1.6 Xu5Ja. The coil I think is square mounted on the Inlet manifold and the Ignition amp my be different? Not sure, I'm hoping someone can advise?

 

 

This was another 2 core shielded wire (brown and white wire) going directly into the ignition amp plug. Gauge was thinner than the original wire so I fit the 4 core (Above) back in. Didn't really need to change it as the fault I found was the Tach Relay socket (see other post) 

Edited June 13 by ALEX
added pics

[SRDT 233]

The 086 is for the XU5JAK (B6E) and the curves are not the same, instead of C019 D013 it's C064 D050 that is stamped on the side.

[ALEX 101 1 Cars]

54 minutes ago, SRDT said:

The 086 is for the XU5JAK (B6E) and the curves are not the same, instead of C019 D013 it's C064 D050 that is stamped on the side.

Good find thanks. Did the B6E engine run with a Cat?

The problem I'm having is the noise in the centre section of the exhaust,  ive just fitted the Oem piper stainless system and it sounds like it's blowing especially under load but its not as the old one did the same. it also it runs hotter than I'd expect. Idle is buttery smooth no smoke not rich or weak. Power is on the button low down, traffic driving can have me kangarooing if i don't slip the clutch but its not too bad. I also don't get the power kick at high revs. If I retard the dizzy it drives more civilised in traffic but the power high revs is even worse. 

Plan was to eliminate the dizzy as the issue then take it to a tuner. Also I have an adjustable cam pulley set at 1deg adv to accommodate the 1mm skim. I covered the logic for this on a previous post. 

Edited June 14 by ALEX

[SRDT 233]

Nope, the XU5JAK B6E can just use unleaded 95 octane fuel instead of leaded 97/ unleaded 98. According to Peugeot older XU5J/JA engines can be converted if you remove 2° of static timing but there is a small power loss.

For MY91 Peugeot converted most of it's engines like the XU9J4 D6C that got a 55 pin ECU with knock sensor.

There was no cheap fix for the XU9JA on the 205 and 309 so it was left as is but the ZX 1.9i got a XU9JAK D6E variant with lower compression and a much better MP3.1 ECU so that max power was still 130hp.

[DamirGTI 359]

You can make dizzy fly lead easily by using old crank sensor or knock sensor , cut the sensor head off and use the cable and 3pin connector .. just make sure it's wired correctly , pick up coil + and - are the most important need to get them right , shielding not really car run without it as most of us did .

 

Being in UK , you have maybe one of the best workshop for distributors - "H&H ignition solutions" .

I'd give them a call .. and send the dizzy to be checked and modified/adjusted to suit the engine specs and fuel you use . 

 

It's not just the dizzy ignition curve , the dizzy mechanism is most probably worn by now and needs fixing .. very often the bob weights get sloppy around the mounting tabs which f*** up the timing , they need to be bushed to take up the slack .

Duccelier ones where better with regards to this but the Bosch ones are very often worn .

 

Edited June 14 by DamirGTI

[ALEX 101 1 Cars]

8 minutes ago, DamirGTI said:

You can make dizzy fly lead easily by using old crank sensor or knock sensor , cut the sensor head off and use the cable and 3pin connector .. just make sure it's wired correctly , pick up coil + and - are the most important need to get them right , shielding not really car run without it as most of us did .

 

Being in UK , you have maybe one of the best workshop for distributors - "H&H ignition solutions" .

I'd give them a call .. and send the dizzy to be checked and modified/adjusted to suit the engine specs and fuel you use . 

 

It's not just the dizzy ignition curve , the dizzy mechanism is most probably worn by now and needs fixing .. very often the bob weights get sloppy around the mounting tabs which f*** up the timing , they need to be bushed to take up the slack .

Duccelier ones where better with regards to this but the Bosch ones are very often worn .

 

I took apart a spare 063 i had it ran notably worse than the one fitted now. The bob weight pin had worn oval and looks like been rubbing the inner wall. I'll get intouch with H&H. And send them the one fitted.  This looks like it coukd be scrap.

[DamirGTI 359]

Yup that's it !

I've taken apart a few Bosch ones too , say 3 out of 5 had loose weights as such .. needs not full disassemble either just a poke with a screwdriver will do to check if there's a slack ..

 

This makes timing/advance jump around , no good needs to be fixed . 

And then recurved for the engine spec and fuel octane grade .

 

Top service from H&H I've used them myself too .