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Gavin Waddell

Trailing arm knock

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jord294

20cm is correct for inner bearing. Outer bearing should be almost flush with end of tube. Definitely no deeper than chamfer on end of tube

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Gavin Waddell

Ok so all depths are right then, going to put everything back together and see if it still knocks. If it so i will just send it it for the summer.

I have a friend with brand new peugeot beam tubes that so will.get one for nest winter and change the tube out 

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jord294

Outer bearing shouldn't be 5mm deeper than shoulder.

 

If new tube readily available do it now

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Gavin Waddell

I went by petert's drawing which recesses the bearing 5 mm inside the tube. I ve got a second outwr bearing.i can place flush with then end of the tube. I might knock the one i have in there at the momemnt flush withbtgebend and see if that helps then install the new one if it works.

 

For the beam tube i dont have the funds at the moment, and they aight going anywhere.

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jord294

This should of been resolved ages ago.

 

I've never had any issues like you are having, but am keen to get answers to following questions.

 

New trailing arm shafts fitted to arms?

If so, which way we're old ones removed and new ones fitted?

How much pressure did it take to press in trailing arm shafts?

How long have you owned the car, and when did you notice knocking?

Do you know history of axle before you stripped it?

 

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Gavin Waddell

New trailing arms fitted with 2 mm spacer placer underneath.

Old ones pressed from outside( wheel) side) in and new ones from inside ( tubeside)  i used a 50t press didnt look at the guage pobably about 2 tons. 

Ive owned the car 20 years now, 2 years ago the  beam was starting to creak quite badly but didnt have a knock. So decided to refurb it last winter and knocking started this summer after abour 1000miles of driving.

I refurbished both sides at the same time and inly the drivers is kno knocking.

 

I did the outer bearings about 13years ago already but he ar covered about 5000miles before the present refurbishment.

 

Voila

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welshpug

Unlikely it'll make much difference,  the bearing land on the shaft is much wider than the bearing.

 

The outer bearing should only be a mil or so in, not fully against the end of the bore, not that this makes a huge bit of difference either

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Gavin Waddell

So i went and had another look at the rear and what i did find was that there is a bit of play in the lower shock bolt where it passes throught the trailing arm? When i first heard the knocking i thought it was the bearing and like a fool i didnt check it any further for a while and when i did check it, it was the lower shock bolt that was loose,i wondering if this has possible worn the hole outa bit and thus creating a bit of play? If i disconnnect the shock it seem to go away. I getting a tired of this whole situation. Problem is its probabaly my fault to begin with.

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Gavin Waddell

Do one of you have a spare arm that you could run a bolt through to see if there is any play in the bolt hole.

 

 

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welshpug

They are more often than not partly seized in, the shank of the bolt is always a nice tight fit.

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Tom Fenton
11 hours ago, Gavin Waddell said:

So i went and had another look at the rear and what i did find was that there is a bit of play in the lower shock bolt where it passes throught the trailing arm? When i first heard the knocking i thought it was the bearing and like a fool i didnt check it any further for a while and when i did check it, it was the lower shock bolt that was loose,i wondering if this has possible worn the hole outa bit and thus creating a bit of play? If i disconnnect the shock it seem to go away. I getting a tired of this whole situation. Problem is its probabaly my fault to begin with.

It sounds like the damper bolt hasn't been properly tight in the past, which has allowed it to move in the hole and create play. The correct torque setting  is quite high, and unless you use a torque wrench you are unlikely to get the fastener tight enough with normal hand tools. As said, the bolts are usually a close fit in the arm.

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jord294

100Nm bottom shock nut

75Nm top shock nut

 

But I thought I'd read earlier the knock happened without shocks fitted ??

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Tom Fenton

118Nm for the 14x1.5 lower nut/bolt.

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Gavin Waddell

 I think im going a bit made with this beam, last night i got the arm back in and the the torsion bars  but not the anti roll bar and i started to move the arm up and down and it was knocking. Im going to reassemble the whole thing properly this weekend taking my time, ill take it for a drive and see what happens. I was trying to rush things and thats when things dont go right. Im guessing the anti rol bar also helps with the lateral stability and i didnt have it installed. And then report back.

 

You probablyball think im a bit of a nutter as everytime i post something its a completley differnt problem.

 

So ill take the opportunityto thank all of you for having the patience and offering me valuable advice and not just telling me to f off. In this day and age of social media its something that happens regularly.

 

So Thanks again, its a shame i live in another country as i would of certainly brought to one of you guys alredybto get it sorted.

 

Gavin 

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SweetBadger

I would get it trailing arm in without torsion bars / arb, or the damper bolted up. Then check for play. Surely if the play is bad enough to cause a knock then it’ll be quite apparent when moving the arm by hand and putting force on the end of the trailing arm?

 

if no play / knock then bolt up one thing at a time and check again until you find the culprit.

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SRDT
3 hours ago, Gavin Waddell said:

Im guessing the anti rol bar also helps with the lateral stability

Even if it does it shouldn't be needed, they are some 205 that don't have one.

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petert
8 hours ago, Tom Fenton said:

118Nm for the 14x1.5 lower nut/bolt.

or 3 ugga duggas

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jord294
9 hours ago, Tom Fenton said:

118Nm for the 14x1.5 lower nut/bolt.

I stand corrected

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Gavin Waddell

Ok. So im borrowing the tourque wrench from my work to tighten the bolt properly, how ever i have  i small query concerning the bracket that hold the brake line ( picture below ).

Last time i had big washer against the shock mout- bracket - nut , when i tighten the nut the bracket wants to spin round. It has a sort of 90° cut out that i assumed goes against the trailing arm? Or am i wrong. 

Screenshot_20231122_143111_Samsung Internet.jpg

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welshpug

That indeed should sit against the sharp edge of the lower damper bolt section on the trailing arm

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Tom Fenton

As you say it butts up against the training arm. It doesn't always work that well to be honest, and you sometimes need to hold the bracket with something whilst you tighten the nut.

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Gavin Waddell

So a little update, i had installed the bearings and the inner one was a bit too deep as was the outer one, so i knocked them out and installed a new set. The innner one is a 200mm from the edge of the beamtube, and the outer one is at the edge of the chamfer. I reset the ride height and installed the anti roll bar. Everything has been loctited and torqued to spec as per haynes. 

I have another question, with the shock not fitted if i push the arm upwards, as if the through its arc of travel/rotation ( like the wheel is going over a bump). The arm would move freely a couple of cm before feeling resistant of the torsion bar, is this normal?

I did give it a little test and at full droop, and there was a little noise. I think it might be just the shock at the begin of its stroke. Once it has some weight under it it seems to be ok. 

The weather has turned over here so i will have to wait till its not snowy to take it for a test drive and see/hear if the knock is still there or not.

I also have to refit the brakes.

I will keep every on updated.

 

Fingers crossed.

 

Gavin.

 

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welshpug

Its normal to have some slack when there's no tension on the arm, I have come across a few that have been really loose recently though,   solved by a different pair of trailing arms.

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Gavin Waddell

Update time been a while.

To the carvfor its CT ( control technique over here) and it came back with an advisory for play in rear beam. The tester was a cool about  it saying that everything looked brand new and was like seems to have been rebuilt so was a bit confused. We chatted for a while about what i had done to the car and let me go without a retest.

 

So looks like i need a new beam tube.

My mate who had old stock has sold everything so will have to find a base model, doesnt really matter to me. Was also thinking could maybe find someone to weld and line bore it ( like CEE on youtube does ) but probably to much hassle.

 

The hunt begins.

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