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TaffyTim

New Discs

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TaffyTim

Hello,

 

I have my MOT soon and my discs are close to thier min thickness so i think i might need to buy some new one. Should I just go for standard ones or is it worth buying better ones?

 

I dont use the car for track days or anything like that i just use it to zoom myself arround my town.

 

Thanks for any reconmendations. :angry:

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[CJ]

Hi,

 

Depends.. If you never experienced fading while braking or felt that your brakes changed charateristics during driving normal discs will be fine for you. Its always a good thing to change the pads as well as theses can be a bit uneven and damage your brand new discs.

 

/Christian

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Ahl

I agree with [CJ]. If you do a search on brake discs you'll find a lot of brake disc theory in this forum along the same lines.

 

60 hole drilled and 100 grooved £120 discs are the forte of max power boys who think the reduction in surface area and brake-pad destroying ability makes them stop faster!

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C_W

Get some decent plain discs with decent pads and they will be fine if not better than "performance" discs.

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Guest jonnie205

had a set of ebc turbogroove on my 306 and warped straight away and pads wore out in 3 months, a set of drilled and grooved disks will provide better stopping power in most cases

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Gaz

Drilled and grooved are good for their cooling effect thus reducing brake fade during heavy and prolonged braking but as for stopping power, a standard disc of the same diameter should be better due to a greater pad to disc surface area.

 

Gaz

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jj205

:angry: hi mate, i bought four new ones from GSF yesterday for my 1.9, they were 14.50 each, even though the front are vented and the back ones are smaller and not vented, What car have you got 1.6 or 1.9, are you just doing front discs,

 

If your not doing trackdays and lots of hard braking id stay with standard ones, well thats what i think, and they seem good value for money from GSF. After getting prices from motorfactors and PUG,

 

I just hope ive got the right pads and discs, im going to fit tommorro, my cars brakes look like the one used in the haynes manual, so Girling on the front and bendix on the rear, But both sets of my brake disks came in bendix boxes, so i persume they are the same as peugeot used.

 

Are your flexi hoses okay as well, there not much either, well if the origional hoses have been on since new they are probably all cracked if you look carefully, its better to be safe and sorry,

 

Good lucjk with it

 

Jonathan :D

Edited by jj205

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pug_ham

Try getting a pair of ATE Powerdiscs from ecp they are well recommended & don't cost much more than standard discs.

 

I have some on my pug with braided front hoses & standard Bendix pads, they work ace & I'm wondering f I want to do the 266mm upgrade before I fit the 1900 motor soon.

 

Graham.:angry:

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C_W
had a set of ebc turbogroove on my 306 and warped straight away and pads wore out in 3 months, a set of drilled and grooved disks will provide better stopping power in most cases

Are turbogroove discs with grooves and those dimple holes?

 

The only case for drilled and grooved discs is at the other end of the heat scale when you need to stop fade but it's a compromise because you're reducing the disc surface and the strength of it. Cross Drilled discs crack too, well any that you can buy to replace a standard 205 disc will.

 

Get some Group N plain discs and decent pads like Mintex 1144 and they'll be fine.

 

hi mate, i bought four new ones from GSF yesterday for my 1.9, they were 14.50 each, even though the front are vented and the back ones are smaller and not vented, What car have you got 1.6 or 1.9, are you just doing front discs,

 

I just hope ive got the right pads and discs, im going to fit tommorro, my cars brakes look like the one used in the haynes manual, so Girling on the front and bendix on the rear, But both sets of my brake disks came in bendix boxes, so i persume they are the same as peugeot used.

 

Are your flexi hoses okay as well, there not much either, well if the origional hoses have been on since new they are probably all cracked if you look carefully, its better to be safe and sorry,

 

Good lucjk with it

 

Jonathan

 

The rear discs should be the same diameter (247mm), just not vented as they don't get hot enough.

I wouldn't worry too much about what box they came is as Bendix are OE spec and make discs for all cars no matter what the caliper might be thats clamping it (same thing with pads).

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Guest mbl

As above, standard discs will probably be fine. If you want an upgrade try ATE Powerdiscs as Pugtorque suggested.

 

Pugtorque; I don't think you'll notice much difference going up from 247 to 266mm. With Powerdiscs, braided hoses & a good set of pads (1144's, etc) you should be fine. This is my set up with an Mi16.

 

Mark.

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Deadliest Pug

I got pattern Tarox discs for my 405, they warped and then started to crack

 

A second set of grooved ones bought through Ecosse, warped bad enough for mne to junk them after about 5000 miles

 

Standard Pug discs from Pug, pads aswell, were going strong for about a year and 20,000 miles but did fade after a long hard drive.

 

I say standard Pug, seemed the best on my 405.

 

Dave!

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Guest Super Josh

Go to GSF(Andyspares) and get some plain Brembo Discs. Not much more expensive than their no-name discs and are made out of decent material.

 

 

Josh

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Guest BW205

How does Grp N disc differ to normal Pug Discs?? Are they better material and quality but same design

 

Cheers

Billy

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Guest puggti

Ive got 12 groove and they do the job nicely compared to the standard discs i had before! :wacko:

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stevemi16

Brembo Discs with Mintex 1144 Pads work well.

Steve

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perfecto pug
Pugtorque; I don't think you'll notice much difference going up from 247 to 266mm.

as tesco say - every little helps :rolleyes:

 

the 266mm disks on my bro's stdt are superb :P

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Guest seb
I agree with [CJ]. If you do a search on brake discs you'll find a lot of brake disc theory in this forum along the same lines.

 

60 hole drilled and 100 grooved £120 discs are the forte of max power boys who think the reduction in surface area and brake-pad destroying ability makes them stop faster!

Hmmm, those grooves do have a purpose you know, sure they remove a small amount of contact area and wears pads faster, but they prevent them glazing, which if you're braking long and hard is a good thing, no?

 

I quite fancy getting some red.dot 20-groove (non-drilled) discs, am i to take it that these wouldn't be recommended?

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Edp

I changed for ATE powerdiscs and they seem to be doing a good job plus like pugtorque said they dont cost an awful lot more than the standard discs. I have found because of the groove the wheels dont seem to collect as much dust as before which is a good thing.

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Ahl
Hmmm, those grooves do have a purpose you know, sure they remove a small amount of contact area and wears pads faster, but they prevent them glazing, which if you're braking long and hard is a good thing, no?

 

I quite fancy getting some red.dot 20-groove (non-drilled) discs, am i to take it that these wouldn't be recommended?

Perhaps, but 205's probably won't suffer from pad glazing unless the pads are crap or its being driven on the track.

 

Some people spend over £100 on a pair of fancy standard size discs when it may be possible to get an entire 306 gti-6 brake setup for the same price - offering far superior braking regardless of the discs used.

 

Ive heard good things about the ati discs, and as a non-performance brake component manufacturer, I'd be inclined to think their powerdiscs were good and do what they say they do. I haven't heard good things about red dot though - I remember hearing that their name is intentionally similar to Tar Ox with the dot and all and that they were more a max power type company, but im not certain.

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mrswampy

ive got ate power disks and greenstuff pads on my s16 and they are spot on.

havent suffered any of the juddering that greenstuff are said to cause and ive given them some right stick.

 

got a set of standered brembo disks and red dot pds o fit to the back tomorrow along with a new caliper so that should get ri of the judder i get from the back due to the warped disk

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Guest h8lst

I studied part of an automation engineering course at BTEC level (comparable to A level) and although I didn't finish it I did cover braking systems, and I did get 95% commendation. My understanding of performance brakes (from a text book case not real world) are:

 

Drilled disks dissipate heat much better than mere vented alone, and as posted will only help if you are using your brakes to a level at which they are starting to fade.

 

Grooved disks on the other hand will deglaze a pad, and are very efficient at ensuring the contact area of the pad is in the best possible condition to (effectively) grip the pad. Pads glaze through heat, and not being run-in properly, apparently you shouldnt let new pads get too hot for the first couple of hundred miles.

 

Changing your pads can have an excellent effect, and increase stopping power - although with the increased stopping power you will have increased heat coming from the disk/pad (the energy has to go somewhere). To ensure you will continue to have increased stopping power without fade you are more likely to need to have drilled disks to lose the heat. Also competition level pads are more likely to need deglazing i.e. the need for grooves.

 

Poor condition brake fluid can often cause fade - when brake fluid deteriorates the boiling temp reduces. This leads to the brake fluid boiling close to the piston and a massive reduction in stopping power.

 

Braided hoses as far as I'm aware increase feel rather than stopping power, but I don't know too much about that.

 

My course teacher would have been proud! - Except I dropped out..

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Adi
Drilled disks dissipate heat much better than mere vented alone

 

How many drilled discs do you see within any motorsport series???

 

2 facts about drilled discs.......1.they are prone to cracking. 2 On cars like Porsche where they are most seen at a production level......the drilled holes are there to reduce weight more than an escape for brake gasses.

 

apparently you shouldnt let new pads get too hot for the first couple of hundred miles.

 

Quite a few pad manafacturers instructions when bedding pads in are:

take the pads thru one complete heat cycle, gradually building the heat and pressure up.

 

The best way I have ever bedded a set of pads in was building the pressure heat up within the first 10-15 mins of driving. When the pads started to fade....I slowed down and stopped till the brakes had cooled completely. They were then ready for hard use.

For many previous times of bedding pads in......I had driven easily for a few hundred miles. This included a set of Mintex 1144. They never seemed to bed in properly.....and faded really easily.

The next set.....I used the first method.......and they were biting well from after 30mins of first use.

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cybernck
How many drilled discs do you see within any motorsport series???

BMW E30 touring car:

 

cazin2003-06.jpg

 

 

drilled discs:

 

cazin2003-07.jpg

 

 

it's got cracks going from holes though :rolleyes:.

 

 

 

but adi's right, most (if not all) newer race cars have have only grooved discs.

 

but not something as extreme and as efficient as red*dot 40-grooves discs :D.

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