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44cmn

Oil temp sender

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44cmn

Hello, my first post. I've recently bought a lovely 1993 1900 GTI that I'm really enjoying tinkering with. It has an oil temp gauge and also the oil level sender, trouble is the two aren't connected !! Would anyone be able to share a simple wiring diagram with me ?

thnaks very much

 

shaun

Edited by 44cmn
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pug_ham

The oil level sensor was fairly useless so often unplugged and I think it only works for a few seconds after initial start up before reverting to the oil pressure gauge.

 

The oil temp sensor is in the back of the sump & takes a while to start indicating anything, the wire to this can often snap off the ring terminal that connects to it or the whole wire break down due to heat damage if routed too close to the exhaust manifold.

 

The oil temp gauge wire runs from a brown six terminal plug at the gearbox joint front side of the engine & very often is in a very poor condition.

 

Click here to download the whole Haynes Peugeot 205 service & repair manual pdf

 

g

 

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Tom Fenton
9 hours ago, pug_ham said:

The oil temp gauge wire runs from a brown six terminal plug at the gearbox joint front side of the engine & very often is in a very poor condition.

 

 

Should be a white colour wire if someone hasn't already been there before you.

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welshpug

I don't think Peugeot fitted the level function to the later dash clusters, it was a short lived thing.

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44cmn

Thanks gents, I'll take a look at the weekend. Here's a pic of her, great little car 

IMG_0617.JPG

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Telf

welcome!

 

Drive the car and enjoy- if it breaks someone on here will help out. biggest thing you can do for the 205 in my opinion is regular oil changes and keep the coolant at the right mix.

 

Also lurk on the forums you learn all sorts here

 

Cheers

 

Paul

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ArthurH
On 2/13/2018 at 10:16 PM, pug_ham said:

... The oil temp sensor is in the back of the sump & takes a while to start indicating anything, the wire to this can often snap off the ring terminal that connects to it or the whole wire break down due to heat damage if routed too close to the exhaust manifold.

 

 

Having just completed an oil change, I've discovered that the ring connector had come loose as the thread on the sensor is almost stripped.  I've tried a few tricks with washers to tighten the nut on any good thread, but with no success.  I'm not sure if it is even the original nut.  I'm reluctant to remove/replace the sensor having just filled with expensive oil :rolleyes:.

 

Can anyone tell me what the original thread of the OEM sensor should be? M3?  M3.5? something else?

 

 

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jackherer

I think it's an M4.

 

It's not the most important gauge really, unless you're taking it on track or something you can happily leave it until the next oil change.

 

I managed to solder a short flylead with a spade connector onto an oil pressure gauge sender that snapped once, it might be worth a go on this if you can't get the thread to work, just get the oil cleaned off well first.

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jackherer

This is a Facet one:

 

1753373647_Screenshot2020-08-08at17_48_51.png.af6941420311620936ec011e4758073f.png

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ArthurH

Many thanks Kieran for your very speedy replies.

 

This is for my son's CSH race car and next 2 races are at Brands on Sat 15th Aug :-)

 

Hmmm, its a lot smaller than 4 mm now... :unsure: I'll see if I can clean it and solder on a short fly lead as you suggest.  If that fails, I'll try crimping a tubular connector onto the remains of the thread.

 

Arthur

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Philpooma
On 2/14/2018 at 7:43 PM, 44cmn said:

Thanks gents, I'll take a look at the weekend. Here's a pic of her, great little car 

IMG_0617.JPG

Car looks lovely Shaun, nice colour :D

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jackherer
1 hour ago, ArthurH said:

This is for my son's CSH race car and next 2 races are at Brands on Sat 15th Aug :-)

Ah OK! Well in that case I'd fit a proper aftermarket oil temp gauge ultimately as the factory one is pretty vague at the best of times.

 

Your idea of crimping something on might work well as it's a round post.

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welshpug

stick your finger in the hole quickly, and have a clean container to catch anything that you miss, I have changes sensors and plugs without draining oil successfully :D

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ArthurH

Thank you all for your replies and suggestions.

 

The existing M4 thread is so reduced in diameter, that even with a new M4 nut, you can jump the thread just using your fingertips.

 

I crawled under the car yesterday to perform the fix.  It had occurred to me that even if I could get it clean enough, soldering it in situ would be a challenge due to the rate at which it would dissipate heat.  I thought I might jump straight to crimping on a tubular connector.

 

I had one more idea.  I squeezed an M4 nut in the bench vice until it was ever so slightly oval.  It did engage with the remnants of the existing thread and needed a spanner to thread it down to the ring connector.  It was able to appropriately pinch the ring, although I wasn't greedy in how much tightened it :-)  As a side benefit, I'm confident it won't vibrate undone :-)  

 

It will certainly do until the next engine removal/oil change or whatever.

 

Thanks again

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SootySport

Some threadlock will help keep it tight.

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