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soundguy

Which order do I test in...?

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soundguy

I've got what seems to be a range of electrical issues conspiring to create a bit of a headache after putting a renewed loom in and doing some other jobs.

 

  1. I’ve removed the Laserline immob and have a wire going direct from the key barrel to the starter solenoid and the engine turns over fine but won’t fire. Do I need to earth the SAD now?
  2. The thick orange wire that was cut at the barrel which now goes from the barrel end of the wire to the starter solenoid - what needs to happen to the other cut end of it? Just tape it up?
  3. Can’t be sure the blue ignition amp I've reinstalled is good - I also have two black ones - I know one of the three works well - is there any way of testing them?
  4. The fuel pump hasn’t run for a few years and has been dry for some time but fresh fuel is in the tank - can’t hear the pump priming on operating on the key. Could the missing immobiliser be stopping the pump from getting power (no fuel in the lines on top of the pump body after cranking).
  5. How do I test the fuel pump relay, or the connector it plugs in to?

 

The last time I asked about bypassing my immobiliser I didn't get anywhere because it was pointed out I was looking to reveal info which could be used to steal 205s. Which of course, I was - but not intentionally! How do I get it running as I want to integrate a new immobiliser in the near future?

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pug_ham

I don't quite understand your first two points, have you completely bypass the original loom with a new wire directly to the starter solenoid?  If you have then I think you have bypassed a wire at the brown plugs in the footwell that signals the tachy relay at least.

 

Surely the two cut ends of the orange wire should be connected to each other?

 

To start with I think you need to check at the various components you mention for power when the ignition is on where possible.

 

The coil & amplifier should have 12v to them when the ignition is on.

 

I don't know anyway to test an amplifier other than fitting a known working one

 

To check the fuel pump is working, is the fuse installed & not blown? You can test it easiest by imo by putting a separate 12v feed directly to the plug under the rear seats momentarily to see if you hear the pump buzz. 

 

If it's been dry for a few years it is possible the old fuel in the pump has dried out & turned into a thick wax like substance that will stop it working, I've had this on a car that had been sat for a few years before.

 

I don't see how a removed immobiliser could be stopping power getting to the pump unless you've a broken wire, assuming everything is now connected as it should be.

 

g

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Rob_the_Sparky

The wire from the ignition to starter should also connect to a relay, I'm afraid that it has been a while so can't remember for sure which one (fuel pump??).  If you have bypassed the original wiring then this might be the problem, however as above when removing an immobiliser the best method is to just re-connect the cut wires.

 

Ignition amp - IIRC if it is duff then the rev counter will not work but also you will get no spark.

 

See above for other suggestions :)

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Davidsw

I had the same situation but I didn’t cut out any immobiliser . 

 

1.check all your sensors are connected correctly .(most important )

2. Firstly your engine must turn over at 350 revs per min ( I.e strong battery )

3. If no fuel get a battery and test fuel pump locally . I.e 12v directly on + from battery 

4. Check fuel relay 

5. When you get fuel working you should get a spark . ( replace amp accordingly if you get fuel and no spark )

 

i will guess when when you get one working both will happen at once unless local pump issues etc . I have a spare loom if you need info 

 

Also just take things logically it will happen .

 

cheers 

 

Edited by Davidsw

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soundguy

Thanks for the various info - I'll work through these methodically and get to the answer eventually. I was told the barrel was dodgy and that was why there was another solenoid in the engine bay, so that orange starter wire was bypassed. I'll see what happens if I reconnect it and I'll check for the relay, spark, pump etc. Thanks for the suggestions and info.

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Miles

Without the SAD connected it won;t stop it running.

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cybernck

These articles may be of help:

 

:)

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Rob_the_Sparky

Yeah, that rings a bell...the tachy relay is the one that is connected to the starter solenoid wire in the stock loom.

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pug_ham
2 hours ago, Rob_the_Sparky said:

Yeah, that rings a bell...the tachy relay is the one that is connected to the starter solenoid wire in the stock loom.

Yeah, it splits off from the under dash brown plug in the footwell, wire 32a, a thin yellow wire iirc.

 

g

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soundguy

Thanks for those links cybernck, there's quite a few articles I should have read but because the topics get discussed from time to time, it's easy to pass them by. 

 

I've reconnected the original thick orange wire which does split off to that separate loom. No change to the non starting but this could be because the fuel pump seems like it was gummed up a bit, as suggested. Basically I removed the pump/housing from the tank and wired it up directly to the battery (which is new and turns over great).

 

At first there was a bit of sparking from the wire I had on the battery terminal to the pump wire connector but there was no sign of life. After tapping the wire to the battery terminal a few times, seems like enough current was drawn to kick start the pump motor and it freed up. Hopefully I'll be able to see signs of fuel being sent out of the pump when I refit it and try to restart.

 

Next stage is to check to see there's a spark at the plugs, and try to find a home for a relay I found which looks like it's looking for a home (not the fuel pump relay). I'll also dig the immob out and the fob terminal to see what used to be where and patch it up.

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soundguy

Slight development, I'm only seeing 0.8v across the electrical connector for the fuel pump when I turn the key. Does that shed any light at all?

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