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wladimir031

Gti6 Stroker 2044Cc

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wladimir031

Hi friends

I have a spare engine and i plan to do true 2.1 bottom end (2092ccm)  .. in the following combination?  and i ask you what you think about this ..
to use :
XU10J4RS Block
88mm crank
honda k20/k24  87mm piston with gti6 rods (158mm)  because honda use 22mm pin like oem gti6 ... (honda piston  comp.height is 30mm)

My calc is :  235-158-44-30= 3mm piston to deck clearence !  and then i would deck the block by those 3mm and i get the job done !?
Opinions ...

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welshpug

you'll need custom rods as you cant use the original rods due to not being bushed.

 

so get some 161mm rods made.

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wladimir031
18 minutes ago, welshpug said:

you'll need custom rods as you cant use the original rods due to not being bushed.

 

so get some 161mm rods made.

Why i cant press k24 pin through gti6 rods (gti6 rod is press pinned) and the pin in k24 piston is full floating ... so it doesn't have to float in rod only in piston in rotation?

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Andy

3mm is quite a lot to remove from the deck. You may need to recess the head bolt holes as you will probably machine down the the thread entry. Then don’t forget to check the head dowel pins as they may now be too long. Finally, cambelt tension and timing. A dry build will reveal if you have sufficient range on the tensioners. Personally I would go for bespoke 161mm rods with fully floating small end and avoid all the above, but I do appreciate that using the o.e RS rods saves a lot of cash.

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Andy

Afterthought. If going down the decking and RSrods route, you could just get the rods re bushed and fully float and save the press fit hassle and the possible issues with the rod- piston combination as the Honda piston was designed to fully float

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welshpug

to re-bush, they must first have a bush to begin with :D

:P

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wladimir031

At least something can be done with gti6 rod to suit  :D ... 

Edited by wladimir031

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petert

3mm is a lot to take off the deck. What about the structural integrity of the block? I'd cut open a dud block and see how much metal is there first. You might be able to use a 133T Mi16 belt if the 134T belt is too long. Cam belt covers will need adjustment. Is there enough metal in the GTi6 rod to bush it? I can't recall.

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opticaltrigger
23 hours ago, petert said:

3mm is a lot to take off the deck. What about the structural integrity of the block? I'd cut open a dud block and see how much metal is there first. You might be able to use a 133T Mi16 belt if the 134T belt is too long. Cam belt covers will need adjustment. Is there enough metal in the GTi6 rod to bush it? I can't recall.

 As you say Pete, it's bushing it that grabbed me. I don't know either if there's safely enough metal in it. Maybe there is.

Got to say also, 3mm does sound quite tasty off the block though... Again, maybe you can, I just don't know. Interesting though.

 

All the best,

O.T.

Edited by opticaltrigger

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wladimir031

Let's just say I solved the problem on the route  Piston - rod (pin solution)  
why not use it then 92mm crank (2.1 disesel) instead 88mm (1.9td)  crank
then i need to deck the block only 1mm instead of 3mm ...   ??? gives me another 100ccm and more power :D
 

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SRDT

With this crank you need to locate the GTI6 rod on the piston end XU9J4 style, the XUD11 uses wider rods just like the XU10J4TE.

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welshpug
6 minutes ago, SRDT said:

With this crank you need to locate the GTI6 rod on the piston end XU9J4 style, the XUD11 uses wider rods just like the XU10J4TE.

nah, just make the rod wider.

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welshpug

just had a look at an xu10 block in my workshop, the webs between the cylinder and block wall are only 4.5mm thick, so I'm not sure taking off 3mm would be that good an idea.

 

 

also XU10 belts are 136/137 between the manual and auto tensioners, so you may get away with using the shorter belt with the larger auto tensioner.

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wladimir031

I found on the forum  DrSarty , wardy18 and on one youtube video ''2.2 205''  ...  they all used OEM s16 rods + 92 crank with no problem ..
can anyone tell me how they solvee rod-crank  (big end journals width difference)  
Centers rod by the piston ?

 

vvv.png

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welshpug

Wossner pistons are horrible, total gamble if the compression ratio is correct, huge valve reliefs and often not on the correct valve centres.

 

why not get some decent rods made to the correct dimensions?  (like my 2.2 engine)

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wladimir031
18 minutes ago, welshpug said:

Wossner pistons are horrible, total gamble if the compression ratio is correct, huge valve reliefs and often not on the correct valve centres.

 

why not get some decent rods made to the correct dimensions?  (like my 2.2 engine)

i know about wossner piston ,now i'm just talking about ataching a gti6 connecting rod to xud11 crank...
I use Honda k24 piston 87mm  ...  Custom rod i dont use because my budget :D  

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SRDT

Then custom K24 pistons it is:

 

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welshpug

omega xe pistons work with small mod, 12-1 off the shelf, cheap, allowing decent rods in budget.

 

at the moment the pound has been hammered to the rods would be cheaper :lol:

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wladimir031
1 hour ago, SRDT said:

Then custom K24 pistons it is:

 

Tnx man, that is how center the rod. I try this solution 

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wladimir031

i read engine build by Andy
I gave up from xud11 crank ... I'm going to DW12 crank .. no problem like with 92mm .. DW12 big end journals width is 24mm like all xu10 crank ..  only thing i have to do is remove from piston crown 1mm to flush with the deck  (235-158-48-30= -1 ) i chase 11,5 to 12:1 CR  because i already have catcam 274... 
cheap strong engine .. 

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