The 205 Mi16 Dream

[welshpug 1,622]

yeah, you'll find it by looking at my profile and finding my threads, its in my Citroen ZX, its a road car that may see the track.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Morning,

Thanks for your helpful reply. I should have gone for a Satchell inlet but didn't. However, I do hope to get close to a 300mm inlet tract length with trumpets and a modified slam panel, but will have to wait until the engine is installed. I am attracted by the engine dyno mapping , even though the overall cost is higher. As for total engine costs, I am doing all the building which saves on labour but if you look at my build thread, I have tried to keep track of the costs just of parts and machining and have not included the Emerald, Jenveys and inlet. They alone add another 2k to the build. These engines are not cheap to rebuild but worth it in my view. I hate to work out just how much I will have spent in total on the full car rebuild !!! But I think I am not alone on this one

Andy

[jackherer 543]

I should have gone for a Satchell inlet but didn't.

 

It's never too late, I had a Jenvey/Longmans inlet but I sold it on ebay and sent the money I got for it to Colin!

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

Gents, what is the cost of the Satchell inlet? Do you need to supply a GTI6 donor manifold?

[Shane17 7 1 Cars]

I'm unable to comment on whether the satchell inlet is the best or most suitable one out there but everybody I have spoken to and everything I have researched suggests that they are, the amount of time and effort satchell and sandy put in to developing them and their general reputation was more than enough for me. Sandy's doing my head and when speaking to him you can tell that he has a passion and the experience that goes in hand with that reputation, like I say I have never built an engine like this so I have nothing to base this on but I would highly recommend, proofs in the pudding as well with their championship winning cars and engines.

 

Tom I believe mine was £1200 all in, I sent my inlet down as they were low on stock but would have charged £40 I think it was for supplying one instead.

 

Also I had the advantage of sandy port matching mine as he was porting my head.

[Duroc 2 1 Cars]

Gents, what is the cost of the Satchell inlet? Do you need to supply a GTI6 donor manifold?

 

I bought one back in the summer. £180 + vat + postage (non-exchange surcharge £40)

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Yes. That is what I was quoted a couple of months ago. At the time, I did not have an manifold to exchange. Now I do so I think I am about to try to sell my Jenvey inlet on eBay.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

eBay deed done!

[jackherer 543]

Feel free to post an ad in our for sale section with a link to your ebay listing too.

[Shane17 7 1 Cars]

Rods arrived from robson engineering, he originally said 3-4 weeks but did it much quicker, can instantly see the quality is much better thanks for the heads up Mei and Sandy.

 

 

 

Just waiting for the head now.....

[welshpug 1,622]

Lovely, Proper Job.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Wow. Impressive. You are building quite an engine!

[Shane17 7 1 Cars]

Cheers Mei and Andy, I just hope that I build the engine to a good enough standard that the parts warrant, I have 2 days over the Christmas break to get the engine built up and then I'll book the dyno. Hopefully get some time working on the actual 205 as well.

[Shane17 7 1 Cars]

So.......... today I find out whether UPS who I arranged to collect my head have lost it somewhere in Southampton or not which also has my cams installed!!!!!!!!!!

[Shane17 7 1 Cars]

Can one of you do me a really big favour and double check I have ordered the correct belt and tensioner from Peugeot....... 0831 07

I'm a little nervous of using service box still

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Hi. Just been on service box. On the assumption that you are building the XU9J4 engine, the belt is 0816-40, the tensioner are 0829-20 and the complete kit is 0831-07 so yep, looks like you have ordered the right stuff. Just hope your head and cams turn up

Regards,

Andy

[Shane17 7 1 Cars]

Cheers Andy, I was actually quite surprised how many parts are still available for the engine. I've got as many new bolts as I could plus the timing belt and tensioner.

 

So today I actually did some things....... mainly cleaning then p#ssing about with liner protrusion! Numbers two and three slid in relatively nicely and protrusion was good, numbers 1 & 2 were just doing my head in I put them in and took them out god know how many times because they just didn't go in right and was as if they were interfering with something pushing them off balance leaving one end with like 2mm and the other almost right, after looking I discovered that the liners were touching the inside of the block where it bulged.....

 

 

You can just about see but it does contact, below is the inside of the block with liner removed, you can see where the liner has scuffed the inside of the block

 

 

I think this is because my liners are 83.5 and they just kept the liner thickness the same OD not allowing for the 0.5 as this is about what I needed to take off, I used a dremel with a grinding tool to carefully remove some material around the scuff area on the block.... I assume this is ok, I didn't want to take it off the liner!

 

After taking the material off the liner just dropped straight into position and bang on for protrusion, note that I had to do the same at each end of the block as they are symmetrical and both liners were doing exactly the same thing so that's why I knew it wasn't the seats.

 

The light is a bit crappy but the liners are in with good protrusion and the whole block scrubbed clean, fingers crossed will be getting this built up in the next few days.

 

 

Another awesome bonus UPS found my package and delivered it today it's late but so glad it arrived, also got my loom and ecu from sandy so it's all getting here I just need to find the time and make it happen.

 

 

Gotta love a bit of shiny sparkly engine bits

[Shane17 7 1 Cars]

Just going back to the liners touching the block...... do I need to allow a a bit of a gap here? It's hard to tell how tight it is

[welshpug 1,622]

the liners look like they are smooth on the outside but with a defined edge? o.e were almost pineapple like, you'd be fine to take a tickle off the corners.

 

 

 

I would relieve them till they aren't touching, you need to ensure they seat correctly and squarely or the headgasket and liner seals wont have a chance of doing their job properly.

 

you can see in your picture number 1 and 2 aren't sitting straight like the other two, though this in itself isnt a concern, it doesn't look right

Edited December 29, 2016 by welshpug

[Shane17 7 1 Cars]

Yes they are, and sort of bulge vertically, I need to dig out my o.e ones to see if they had reliefs so that they would avoid this section. Like I say I think that because I have gone 83.5 Westwood didn't allow for this, Andy has 83mm ones and hasn't seemed to have a problem.

 

I'll relieve a touch more when I remove them for the build. Am I safe to still take more off the block? It's next to a waterway. I assume it's not best to take some off the liner?

 

When they were all in I checked on both axis up the centrelines and each liner for difference and all read good, I am going to double check tomorrow, I checked the block deck before putting the liners in and flatness was all good. I'm pretty happy with these and feel pretty confident it's putting the crank in and pistons/ rods that I'm a little nervous on, and cleanliness is constantly bugging me especially now I'm removing metal.

[Shane17 7 1 Cars]

Here's the Westwood Ines

 

 

I did spot that and think it looks crap but then I just thought I've got to put the seals on and clean again..., and then probably clean it again after that!

[welshpug 1,622]

I'd rather take some metal off the liner, easier to clean up and less impact on strength.they're obviously a lot chunkier than the original ones as they aren't cast, it would have taken a few more machining operations to make sure they fit in every block which I guess they decided not to bother with.

[petert 550]

You need to clean up this area with the dremel. Last thing you want is some of that breaking off and entering the oil system.

[Shane17 7 1 Cars]

Cheers Mei I'll see what I can do with them, I made a mistake earlier saying numbers 1 & 2, it was 1 & 4 that were the issues.

 

Fair one Peter I've got to get used to looking at things in more detail and having the bollocks to grind things like that.

 

Has anyone got any tips on cleaning the outside front of the block where years of oil and coolant have leaked and baked on? I've had it acid dipped, gunk wash several times, soapy hot water and when dry my dremmel with wire wheel but the baked on stuff is tough! Can I soak it in something?

 

I did want to get it vapour blasted but after speaking with a company on the phone said they could do it, took it down there and they said they couldn't, quite disappointed as I have got some vht paint so I need it spotless.

[welshpug 1,622]

but if diesel or petrol on a stiff brush will loosen it up, as its an alloy block a liberal coating of wd40 wpuld keep it looking good, paint applied to old alloy blocks never lasts long.

Edited December 29, 2016 by welshpug