What Proven Methods Of Reinforcing Peugeot 4X4 Drivetrain?

[lybker 26 2 Cars]

Since I cannot afford the reinforced center diff shafts from www.atdperformance.com,I wonder if any other proven methods at hopefully a much lower cost is available?

 

I did find some comments on one citroen forum but it did not state any details. So currently my plan is to find out what type and size the original cut splines are - does anyone have this information?

 

and then I will source the appropriate spline tool in order to extend the "male" part by min. 50 mm with hardened steel to allow for more overlap between the 2 Axle´s - hopefully sorting the torque transfer problem

 

Anyone tried this approach with luck?

 

 

 

help is highly appriciated - thanks :-)

Edited February 16, 2016 by lybker

[welshpug 1,626]

Probably better to utilise a far stronger stock drive train from a different manufacturer, mitsubishi has been done.

[lybker 26 2 Cars]

....agree, and mitsubishi even have some fitting the a peugeot engine. So this will likely be fall back plan in case above does not work

[kyepan 291]

Making sure the oil stays cool is one way, as the oil heats up it's sheer strength degrades, someone on here added an oil cooler to their box and stopped getting failures.

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

About this supposed gearbox oil cooler, did anyone ever actually see this car actually working?

 

 

Anyway in this case, its the splines which strip, nothing to do with oil.

[lybker 26 2 Cars]

I did use an oilcooler on my gearbox when I was part of a racing series from 2007-2010.

 

I might have a picture, but in short I made the drainplug have a hose stud and drilled a hole in it - leading to a small oil pump that would cirqulate the oil into a small oilcooler and back to the drain overflow plug - making sure ekstra oil was added for the volume of this axcillerary system. Never measured the temperature of the oil though - but had no gearbox failures.

 

but pure torque will snap the splines - agree with Tom

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

This is a nice Finnish upgrade

 

[Rippthrough 98]

Making the splines longer won't help you, as by the end of the engagement they'll be taking basically no torque anyway due to the spline flexing ahead of them, that's why you find most spline connections are only the same length as the diameter.

Basically the twist that's happened above in the pic happens normally under load across the entire spline - obviously not to that extent - but making them longer just means the end has bent before the longer part starts taking load.

You'd be better making a new part with closer spline tolerances - they're a bit loose on the OEM stuff, in fact they're looser than my driveshafts on the buggy and those are deliberately loose so they slide on the spline.

Edited February 18, 2016 by Rippthrough

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

About this supposed gearbox oil cooler, did anyone ever actually see this car actually working?

 

 

Anyway in this case, its the splines which strip, nothing to do with oil.

I saw a video of it on a dyno making 2000bhp through a Sherpa gearbox......

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

I saw a video of it on a dyno making 2000bhp through a Sherpa gearbox......

 

Is this the real life?

Is this just fantasy?

Caught in a landslide,

No escape from reality.

 

Open your eyes,

Look up to the skies and see,

I'm just a poor boy, I need no sympathy,

Because I'm easy come, easy go,

Little high, little low,

Anyway the wind blows doesn't really matter to me, to me.

 

 

[Biggles 65]

You'd be better making a new part with closer spline tolerances - they're a bit loose on the OEM stuff, in fact they're looser than my driveshafts on the buggy and those are deliberately loose so they slide on the spline.

 

I've come across this approach before on a different application - clutch output shaft was male spline, gearbox input was male spline, and there was a female splined coupling to join the two. In high output engines, the coupling had a habit of stripping. The solution was to make the male splines slightly oversize and press the coupling on & off a few times so there was zero play in the joint. Bit of a pain to do but once done, it cured the problem. Could be worth a try here.

[lybker 26 2 Cars]

Thx for the suggestion - will deffinatly take that into account

[imaS 0]

This is a nice Finnish upgrade

 

 

How much abuse that got, and what was the torque output of the engine? Looks like it broke from the weld after twisting?

 

The Finnish solution has worked well in my stock Mi16x4 but that does not have much torque. Though all of it is used quite often...

Edited February 23, 2016 by imaS

[lybker 26 2 Cars]

Hi Sami

 

Do you have a link to the company selling you the upgrade shafts - or contact? How much did it cost?

 

Thx :-)

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

 

How much abuse that got, and what was the torque output of the engine? Looks like it broke from the weld after twisting?

 

The Finnish solution has worked well in my stock Mi16x4 but that does not have much torque. Though all of it is used quite often...

 

It was a T16 trying to do a burn-out on all 4 wheels from stand still in 1'st gear, so maybe not strange that it let go.

But as expected the weld area seem to be the weakest point.

 

My guess is that the ATD shaft would have been able to hold this. However once one get to 2'nd gear and upwards there's much less likely to get problems..

[imaS 0]

Hi Sami

 

Do you have a link to the company selling you the upgrade shafts - or contact? How much did it cost?

 

Thx :-)

 

Hello Lybker,

 

I got the shafts fixed through a Finnish GTI-club. I guess that the company that eventually did the work was this one. The modification of the original shafts was done about ten years ago and the price was in the ballpark of 600 € if I remember correctly. Member SamTac might have more information about recent costs (see projects & works starters section).

[Capa 0]

Quite amazed that something like this has even been thought of!

 

Props for going with it.

Edited March 3, 2016 by Capa