Jump to content

Welcome to the brand new 205GTIDrivers.com website! We hope you'll enjoy it! Read the full notice here.

Sign in to follow this  
lybker

[Project] 205 Dimma S16 Turbo Converting To 4X4

Recommended Posts

Juttie205

Amazing how well it all fits im guessing this peugeot 4wd gear is difficult to find?.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lybker

...reason for lack of news is the project came to a hard stop, since last update. after fitting the crown sprocket to the 4x4 axle, and fitting the diffhousing, i found the gearbox would not turn. Baffled by this, my emmidiate conclusion was the be3-6 box had been maschined with a critical offset, forcing the 2 sprockets hard together....a long nights sleep and tripple checking the dimensions, I found it had to be something else. Searching the net, i learned that the 306 S16 had been sold with to different final drive ratios:

 

19x75 and 19x77. This was dependant on age, as the early models where sold with the 19x77. Why this suddenly became my problem? I sold my Quaiffe LSD still fitted with the original crown wheel, knowing I had a spare gearbox in the workshop. To bad the gearboxes originated from different aged cars.

 

However the problem has been fixed - contacted the new owner of the LSD and after 3 hours drive and a quick assembly, the gearbox now seems to be flawless.

 

Pheew I am pleased to be back into the building process :-)

post-3777-0-01161600-1485102189_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-93196700-1485102196_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-87207900-1485102205_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

glad to hear it was an easy enough fix and no damage was done! it is always best practice to keep gears as pairs once they have been used, they wear into each other.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lybker

...just a quick update to confirm progress is still being made

 

First time fitting both the gearbox and transfer box made it clear, I have to remove more material from the oilpan (not anticipated) and also have to fit the smaller plastic watermanifold as replacement of the more bulky aluminum one to ensure sufficient clearance of all components.

 

Pace is slow but steady :-)

post-3777-0-38665400-1485294509_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
petert

Yes, the Mi16x4 sump is different and has more bracing around bell housing etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
B1ack_Mi16

The T16 seem to be using a regular alloy sump setup (looks like a 1.9 Mi16 sump, although with the additional depth of a normal non-spacerplate sump). In addition it has a strengthening bracket in cast iron between the two sides of the block at the gearbox side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lybker

do you have a Picture of this strenghtening bracket?, as I am pondering to reinforce this section where the diff housing is bonded to the centertransmission and bolt it to the engineblock

 

What oil and how much is optimum to use for both the center transmission and the rear differential?

Edited by lybker

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
B1ack_Mi16

Not entirely sure about oils, but I think transferbox is 1.8l, but I applied 2 into mine before it showed max at the dipstick.

 

For diff I think also something like 1.8l, I think the upper plug is the level plug anyway.

 

I can try to get a picture next time I'm in the garage of the reinforcement bracket.

 

I bought this uprated reinforced bracket from Charles to connect TB to engine block at the gearbox side:

20140427_152251_zpses61njfc.jpg

 

However there is also one more bracket supposed to go between block and TB closer to the rear engine mount (in addition to the enginemount to TB bolt connection). However I could not find this bracket in my parts bin, so I have left it out for now. Hopefully not too important.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lybker

Tonight I made good progress - trial fitted the centertransmission maybe 10 times to ensure nothing causing stress due to no clearance. It is a tight fit in any location. Oil return pipe from turbo had to be modified, same goes for the watermanifold behind the waterpump, and further trimming of the oilpan

 

before the final assembly, i cleaned the splines male and female part and added a thick layer of Locktite 660, hoping this will be a good choice to compensate for the large tolerance in the splines. Hopefully it will be better taking the abuse to come :

 

http://www.na.henkel-adhesives.com/industrial/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797714251777

 

Now getting visual of the limited space for gearlinkage, exhaust and driveshaft, I might be forced to widen the tunnel to compensate.

 

Next steps are adding reinforcement brackets, modify the underframe and add driveshafts :-)

post-3777-0-53698400-1485380932_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-52514500-1485380954_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-10177500-1485380983_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-83997200-1485380999_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
calvinhorse

Just read up on loctite 660, sounds like crazy stuff, tighter than a press fit but doesn't harden?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lybker

This weeks update - I am pushing hard to get the 205 off my lift, as other cars are waiting in line. That means getting all of the understructure finalized and assembled:

 

First requirement was a reinforcement bracket to support the transferbox. These can be had from ATDperformance at a cost, but anyway - here is my take on this:

 

 

Secondly realizing the enginebay is getting crambed, it took some trial fitments to figure out how to modify the underframe to ensure sufficient strength and enough clearance for the crankshaft. Having finalized modification tonight, next step is clean it all up and apply paint, before final assembly.

 

frustrating is however, it has become clear that I cannot avoid to modify (enlarge) the exhaust tunnel - this is a big step back, as it should have been done before start of the assembly process :-(

 

Will have a good nights sleep trying to figure out what will be the best approach to solve this issue....any good ideas is more than welcome! :-)

post-3777-0-03799300-1487714835_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-23551600-1487714847_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-72916000-1487714854_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-15388700-1487715217_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-06199700-1487715225_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-59062200-1487715232_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lybker

progress is being made, however everything is so tight, trialfitting components are frustrating and slow. Even so after 5 adjustments I am ok with the achieved clearance of the front frame vs the center gearbox. Just to fid out there is actually not room for the steering rack, as it hits the driveshaft. I decided in frustration to elevate it by 10mm,but now the steering is somehow tight - I need to redo this once I have found what is the issue.

 

also I found the ARB does not clear the space needed for the driveshaft. Not sure how to sort this, but will remove it for the time being.

 

...and finally - the wheels are back one - I do look forward to the first test drive, even there is still some work to be done first :-)

 

 

post-3777-0-74043500-1487960325_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-22606600-1487960331_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-20154200-1487960347_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lybker

Todays thrilling event, was to cut out the middle section, to prepare for enlarging the prop shaft tunnel. I removed a 180mm wide strip, and will instead install a 100mm taller tunnel bended in 1,2mm stainless steel, allowing for the exaust to be placed above the prop shaft. This will also raise the gear linkage and handbrake console, but this should be fine.

 

secondly I will construct an adapter allowing me to fit the modified BMW e39 propshaft directly on the flanges of the center gearbox and differential. The CAD sketch was done tonight and I will print a 3d model to check tolerances tomorrow :-)

 

 

post-3777-0-33373000-1488400210_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-00996900-1488400269_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
B1ack_Mi16

Nice work. I hate cutting in the car like that :D

 

Is that Catia?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lybker

No its inventor from autodesk.

 

Believe me, I was quite unhappy about this also, took me a week or so to find the guts to do this. its a real shame, as the chassis is in good condition and rust free :-(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
petert
Posted (edited)

I use Inventor almost everyday. It's a good package. Love your work. Keep going!

 

I would remove the ARB completely. It's totally unnecessary once you sort out the spring rates.

Edited by petert
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tom Fenton

Will making the new tunnel in stainless steel not make welding it back to the car a pig? Also stainless as I'm sure you know is prone to cracking when subjected to vibration. I would use mild steel personally here.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lybker

Trying to keep momentum on the project, I did achieve quite a lot tonight, taking into account I only have time in the workshop after kids are put to bed at 20:00.

 

First i fitted the 3D printed adapter plate and luckily it fits like a glove :-) Next is to have the model, machined in steel and start working on the prop shaft.

 

Second effort was on the new prop shaft tunnel. I cut and bend a 1mm stainless tunnel and after 2 hours of tweaking, welding and sealing, I am pretty happy with the end result. It feels sturdy and tough. To be sure, 3 stabilizers where added to the inside of the tunnel.

 

Missing is surface treatment and reinstallation of the seats. As this stage was a somewhat setback, I just want to get it out of the to-do list ASAP :-)

 

...next days will be slow, maybe thats a good thing....

post-3777-0-90622100-1488493376_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-65727800-1488493396_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-10449800-1488493416_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-05152300-1488493431_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-11081300-1488493446_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-93525800-1488493453_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-82996400-1488493462_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lybker

Even with the bigger tunnel, space is limited. As I am still searching for the rear flange for the final drive, in the meantime I have been working on compacting the gear linkage and modifying the exhaust system.

 

Linkage is done, and the main parts of the exhast is in place. This project is slowly moving towards finalization :-)

 

Still last big missing item is the propshaft, rest is just 100 small items like brake bias valve, oil in the gearboxes etc.

 

I really hope I fitted everything the way it should and reinforced the right locations - as mentioned somewhere earlier, I did detune the engine to 300bhp for starters. Really looking forward to its first track time :-)

 

 

post-3777-0-71400000-1491163498_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-76276700-1491163505_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-62134500-1491163516_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-48950300-1491163523_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lybker
Posted (edited)

Well the underside is nearing completion, exhaust is now finalized together with the offset gearlinkage and fitted. Space is very limited, and not untill I have the propshaft fitted, will it show clearly if clearance is enough. And this is next step: Waiting for a new rear diff to arriv, collected and shipped by a true Norwegian hero! Really Thanks :-)

 

once this is in, I will be able to prepare the propshaft adapters, measure the gab between the two, and order the propshaft.

 

Next update will not happed untill 2-3 weeks time...I need the break :-)

 

 

post-3777-0-22376200-1491424541_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-60995700-1491424552_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-31160800-1491424566_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-38436300-1491424579_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-10475900-1491424947_thumb.jpg

Edited by lybker

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lybker

After spending some time thinking, I decided to construct 2 adapters to bridge from the peugeot standard flange to the bmw drive shaft. The adapters supports the flange on the sides to compensate for the small bolt size. I printed a mockup to test clearance and it confirms a tight fit - but I think it will be ok.

 

Next is to get the adapters machined and finally modify the driveshaft. This will be done by a specialist workshop as I worry about balancing the shaft.

 

Anyway I amthrilled about the outlook to be able to test drive the car sometime in the near future :-)

post-3777-0-47113700-1493238428_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-87501100-1493238440_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-92973500-1493238449_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-88944100-1493238474_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-93353000-1493238485_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mmt

Looks really good mate. It is a true Lybker project:-) Looking forward to see the first video of you taming the thing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lybker

status - well, I hate to wait. Again the machineshop is delaying progress, as the 3D-printed adapters gets remade in steel. Looking back, half of the time it took to reach this stage of the build has been spent waiting for parts. :-(

 

So killing time by adding fluids to the driveline is as fun as it gets currently.

 

 

post-3777-0-27825100-1494442937_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-77240000-1494442950_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
johniban

great work

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lybker

...Finally after 4 months of waiting, the last flange has arrived, and assemby can continue.

 

 

The new propshaft should be ready for pick up tomorrow meaning if all goes as planned, the car should be back on its wheels tomorrow evening, pulling on all 4 - yah!

 

 

 

 

post-3777-0-00965800-1505850570_thumb.jpg

post-3777-0-68801500-1505850579_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×