Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

allye

Any Stereo/ice Experts?

Recommended Posts

allye

After a bit of advice, with some time on my hands i find myself planning all aspects of my van. Now, as its going to be a comfy cruiser it's getting a nice stereo install. 4 standard locarion speakers, dash mounted tweeters piggy backing the front speaker wiring, thats all the head unit will be powering. Now my questions is about amp's.

 

I have got some nice goodwood door cards that have been modified to accomodate a extra set of speakers, slightly larger, 15cm at a guess. So, can i power a small 8" sub and 2 larger door speakers from a fairly tame 5/600ish watt 4 channel amp?

 

Thanks, Ali

Edited by allye

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Simes

Yes.

I have a mono for my sub and a 4 channel for the rest.

The rear speakers don't do anything so I have thought of getting rid of the mono, and bridging a pair of channels on the other amp for the sub. Mine is all Alpine kit.

 

Of course I first considered this about 6 years ago and not done a thing.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
allye

thanks for the quick reply, just to confirm I'd need to run two seperate amps? If thats the case I may just stick a under seat sub and a small amp for the door speakers in there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anthony

Most 4 channel amps can have one pair of outputs bridged to give 2+1 channels that would be fine for driving a small sub.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sp_en_ny

If the amp is driving two door speakers and an 8 inch sub as long as the amp is bridgeable the bridge two cgannels on the amp to drive the sub then remaining two channels drive each door speaker. If you are driving 4 door speakers and the sub you will need use the current amp for door speakers and another amp preferabky mono to drive the sub.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sp_en_ny

Also if you can turn off the internal amp of the head unit then do so. This will improve sound quality to.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
barneys66

I'm no expert but here's a link to a thread I started about an install in my wife's Smart Roadster.

 

Since then I unbridged the amp and ran an extra pair of Alpine mids in pods in the back.

 

Sounds fantastic - won't blow the windows out but effortless power (still way more than needed) and quality.

 

I wonder how difficult it will be to balance yours up if you're running speakers from the headunit and mids from an amp..?

 

http://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/tech-discussion/budget-ice-install-wifes-daily-advice-please-67958

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
allye

Bit of a simpleton with stereos, am i going to have issues with having 2 speakers in one door being powered by different locations? (one head unit and one amp)

 

Whats balancing!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
barneys66

Me too - I just read as much as I can and asked for advice like you!

 

I can only assume with the stereo powering four speakers the sound you'll get from them will be average at best, but the amplified mids you intend to install will blow them away. Therefore, you either get little to no benefit from the originals, some space filling maybe, or turn down your amp so it doesn't overpower them. Tweeters wired off speakers will always be a compromise - go with crossovers if you can.

 

Balancing to me is just getting a nice sound by tweaking various elements and also ensuring the car is filled with noise, and not just obviously coming from one speaker location. Take a look at an image of an amp and see how many twirly buttons there are to play with! Again, I'm no stereo aficionado, but I was twiddling for hours until happy. Snigger, snigger.

 

Suppose it's a bit like building a car/engine - too much in one area is no use unless you build the rest to suit. Unless you just want to go boom, boom. Boom. :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Simes

All you need are components up front and a sub in the back. The rear speakers offer nothing at all.

Use a 4 channel amp that is bridge able , bridge two channels to power the sub.

I drive my set up fairly hard (fortunately it can't be heard miles away!) and it sounds quite good.

What head unit do you have?

 

I've got focal components up front with crossovers. I set it all up s few years back, never looked back. I can adjust all the pre outs on my HU individually.

 

Tbh the standard set up in our e91 (it comes with 8" subs under the front two seats!!) is great but more due to lack of any noise in the cabin at mega speeds!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
allye

In that case I may sack off the rear speakers, power all 4 door speakers from a amp, the tweeters from the head unit and have a under seat sub, opinions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anthony

I personally think you're making life potentially difficult for yourself trying to power different speakers on a given channel from separate amps.

 

Personally I'd power the front doors complete using two amp channels and appropriate crossovers to filter frequencies, and the bridge two amp channels to drive a small sub in the rear.

 

I tend to keep the rear speakers just to provide some fill/depth in a noisy environment like a 205, although you want the fronts doing most of the work to keep the soundstage in front of you. I'd be happy to drive the rears from the headunit in that situation.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
barneys66

I originally had just two mids in the doors (powered by a bridged four channel amp), crossovers / tweeters and a powered sub.

 

Personally, the sound was too focused at the front and I like to be surrounded by sound, so I un-bridged the mids and added a second pair in the rear. Equally, as the Smart was compact, I shifted the balance to the left slightly so the driver was central to the noise. Similarly in my daily I move the sound towards the rear, but as it's a bigger car there tends to be no need to balance left to right. Driver always central.

 

If I were you I'd buy a similar amp to mine, i.e. 4-channel bridgeable with an RCA output, just in case you wire it all up and are dissatisfied. At least then you've got options without buying another amp.

 

Oh, and don't scrimp on sound deadening.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
allye

plenty of food for though there thanks. Don't worry about the soun deadening, it's going to be the quietest 205 ever!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
allye

Ah jeez. Now I've got to read up on and learn what to do with some passive cross overs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
barneys66

Yep - get a component kit and, apart from the wire, it's all included.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
allye

Those focals look like the boys! I'd imagine if barely need two speakers in each door with those.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Simes

The tweeters are fixed to my pillar trim.

The mids in the normal place.

They are fab and can be driven hard.

The quality is good but over 70 they are competing with solid engine mount and throttle body noise!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
allye

I won't have that problem with a heavily sound proofed cabin, standard mounts and a HDI!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×