Crank Bolt Won't Budge, Even With Impact Wrench

[dcc 855]

as above, slacken the bolts off, use your hand to compress the spring fully, nip up the 11mm's and fit belt, release the 11 mm's and voila! make sure you tighten up the 3 bolts though

[scbond 15 1 Cars]

Will give these suggestions a try and report back...probably with another hurdle!

[scbond 15 1 Cars]

Done! Managed to find a spanner that wasn't so crap and did it easily.

 

Up to removing the followers and shims now. One thing that worries me before getting there is that whoever was working on the cam last has lost some of the nuts with a base from the bearing cap studs. They've been replaced but they used regular washers and one of them was using two?! Also two of the studs came out of the head fairly easily while removing the nuts...anything to worry about? From the history I can see the HG and cambelt were dine not that long ago but now I'm worried that whoever dis it was a bit of an idiot! I mean, most of the belt cover bolts are missing and the dizzy was held on with one nut!

[hoodygoodwood 70 3 Cars]

The cam cap nuts are very shallow and round off easily , if you use a socket with a larger outer diameter it can foul on the cam cap so I searched out a socket that will fit the gap . I had to replace some of the nuts as they were damaged , I still have some new in bags which I bought many years ago - might still be available .This is probably what happened to your engine .

Belt cover bolts are often missing or bodged with something else as they are specific shouldered bolts , best to find correct replacements as the belt covers fit badly enough as it is without any help .

The nuts are still available from Peugeot , part number 0251.03

Edited April 2, 2015 by hoodygoodwood

[scbond 15 1 Cars]

Cheers for the info. Did notice some thread left behind on a stud but not checked the nuts yet. The extra washer on one was the most worrying as I thought torque and tolerances were important there.

 

Do you know of a shop anywhere (such as B&Q or ScrewFix) that sells the right size and type of nuts for the caps? Hoping to get the job finished tomorrow so would rather avoid ordering from Pug.

[scbond 15 1 Cars]

Just checked ServiceBox and there's only three bolts for the lower cover (I had two as the cover is pretty poor condition and missing a hole) and one through the water pump/tensioner cover (there was only the one present).

 

The upper cover also feels a bit floppy and loose...the top left which is near the back of the tensioner bracket has nothing holding it down. Is that correct?

[hoodygoodwood 70 3 Cars]

The std nuts have a wide base to spread the load , quite important as the cam caps could be distorted if you torqued them down too hard .I have bought a lot of stainless screws and nuts from Screwfix or Toolstation so they might have something to suit but it might be worth trying your local Pug dealer , they might have a couple lying around .

There is a shouldered bolt that fixes the plastic back plate iirc near the tensioner , one of mine is missing as well and its distorted .

[scbond 15 1 Cars]

Quick question regarding the timing markers on the camshaft between the first two lobes (belt side)...what should they be lined up with on the pulley? There's a locking pin hole, a small circular marker next to the bolt hole in the centre and a small square stamped near the edge.

[welshpug 1,627]

no idea what bits you mean, all you need to do is pin it and fit the belt starting at the crank and working anti clockwise.

[scbond 15 1 Cars]

Well the whole shaft is out so if I put it back in and fit and tighten the pully there's a good chance pulley is tightened in a different position than it was when it came out. Or can the camshaft only fit back in one way?

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

The pulley only fits onto the camshaft in one position.

[scbond 15 1 Cars]

Ah ok...would've helped to turn the pulley over! Thanks for the help everyone...homeward stretch now!

[scbond 15 1 Cars]

Ok, hopefully the last issue...I'm trying to get the engine timed correctly but when I match the marks on the belt to both the crank and cam pulleys, tension it up and then turn the crank manually two full turns the marks don't line up anymore. No teeth are splipping so surely they should line up?! Or should I ignore marks on the belt and use the timing holes on the pulleys?

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

Crikey you are making hard work of this.

The lines only ever line up once. Use the holes in the pulleys. As long as the pins drop back in after 2 crank revolutions it's correct.

[scbond 15 1 Cars]

Got it! And yea, loads of the job makes sense to me and a few issues really just didn't. Whoever did work on it in the past made a meal of it...just one fine example was two stem seals had been changed but the rest were original. The actual valve work was easy...even without a spring compressor.