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allye

V6 Hot Start Problems

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allye

So I'm getting a strange hot start issue with my V6. From cold will start first turn and idle fine. As it gets hot it's very hard to start, turning over for maybe 10secs and it sounds as though it's just catching idles roughly then is fine. Put a noids tester on it and injectors (just refurbished) are getting power and fuel pump is going with good pressure, just put a new crank sensor on too. Other times when hot it starts fine. Very odd, any ideas?

 

I am under the impressions coil packs work or dont not intermittent.

 

Thanks, ali

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Anthony

If you switch it off and then immediately try to re-start it, does it start easily or is it equally hard to start as when it's been left for say 10 minutes or so?

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allye

Hard to start immediately after, gets better when you leave it....

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Goliath

I had exactly the same issue with mine, I have changed coils/ecu/relays/idle valve/map sensor and made no difference, the only thing I haven't yet changed is the crank sensor, I have one waiting but have been so busy I just haven't managed to sort it yet. I'm fairly confident it will fix the issue.

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allye

Sorry George change to crank sensor and no difference, one of my double relays is going mental though, constantly clicking, normal?

 

Used terminal cleaners on both double relays and ecu, with electrical cleaner. Unplugged map, O2, vaf sensors individually made no difference. Also cleaned both main earths.

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Goliath

Ah shucks, not so confident my issue will be fixed with the new crank sensor then! No idea what else I can change one mine, literally changed everything!

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allye

Can you live with it? Affect performance at all?

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Goliath

Can you live with it? Affect performance at all?

 

No, as mine is much worse than yours and won't start at all when hot (on some days, other days it is fine). But it's a pain being stuck in a petrol station for an hour waiting for it to cool down and decide to start!

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jackherer

In my experience rapid clicking of relays is usually caused by a bad (high resistance) connection. I know you said you checked the grounds but I'd double check them as well as the battery terminals and the rest of the wiring to the relay.

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d7ve_b

MASSIVE long shot here.

 

Clio V6's suffer warm start problems when the vaccum valve from the fuel tank fails leading to fuel atomisation in the fuel lines. I had the problem a few months ago and first started with the TDC sensor which didn't solve it. In the end I swapped the valve for £40 and it's totally cured the problem. The old renault part number was 8200 660 852 but I think it's been superseded now, Renault parts should be able to give you the new number.

 

For diagnosis, trying removing the one way valve and blowing through it, if you can it's knackered.

 

I appreciate the layout for Clio's is completely different but it might be worth a look if you've tried everything else.


FYI the valve looks like this:

 

82913_eA.jpg​

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welshpug

ah, the charcoal canister purge valve? most likely dispensed with and blanked in this case

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d7ve_b

That could be it's proper name. All I know is that it sits in a pipe that runs from the inlet manifold to the fuel tank on a V6 and has an electrical connector attached :lol:

 

As you say though, probably long gone in this case.

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calvinhorse

Allye coils can break down and become weak so that would be worth a try

 

Have you got a proper size battery and cables? Is the battery in good health?

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allye

Battery is proper size, cables seem large enough. It was perfect all of last year is the odd thing.

 

Reference the carbon canister, when changing the plugs I actually found it under he engine cover plugged in to the electrics with no pipes going to it so I took it out, now back in but made no difference.

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Paul_13

Fuel pump?

Mine used to play up like mad when it was hot, took ages to start

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Daviewonder

Had this trouble with mine. Took a couple of weeks to figure it out but it turned out to be the connector on the Management temp sensor (Green switch IIRC).

 

 

Worth a look?

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Goliath

I changed the crank sensor on mine and it made no difference, but I have managed to fix it! It turns out all the problems I was having seem to have stemmed from a very small airlock around the green temp sensor.

 

Take your filler cap off, fill it up, then undo the green temp sensor all the way until its just a clear stream of water coming out, no bubbles, then put it back in. That, rather unbelievably, has fixed all the issues I was having!

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Goliath

Yes indeed. I know, it sounds ridiculous that an air lock could cause all the issues I had, but it has been fine since so either it was the problem, or an incredible coincidence.

 

Number 11 in this picture is the green sensor you need to bleed it from, there should be a bleed screw just next to it but I couldn't get anything onto it easily so taking the sensor out was easier.

 

Coolantserviceboxpic.jpg

Edited by Goliath
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