Mot Failure Costing

[Homerjay 1]

Hi all.

 

my pug has just failed its MOT with the following:

 

Brake failures: RBT park brake efficiency 9%

 

001 offside headlamp to high

002 offside steering rack gaiter split

003 nearside rear subframe attachment rubber mounting deteriorated resulting in excessive movement

004 offside rear subframe attachment rubber mounting deteriorated resulting in excessive movement

005 offside rear parking brake recording little or no effort

006 nearside rear parking brake recording little or no effort

007 Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content excessive

 

car is a standard 1991, 1.6 gti btw.

 

£250+ vat to sort.

 

Thoughts?

 

 

also a load of advisories which i'll run through later.

[welshpug 1,737]

250 inc labour sounds ok.

[Homerjay 1]

cool, just wanted to be sure.

 

never used the garage before, but seems sound enough.

 

he reckoned the biggest job was sorted the handbrake cables.

[scbond 15 1 Cars]

Handbrake cables and the rubber bushes are what would push the cost up quite a bit due to labour. The other bits will take a couple of minutes each most likely. I'd personally be tempted to get the cost down by doing things like the cables, gaiters, CO mixture and headlight adjustment myself but obviously you have no MOT until the work is done so getting it home may be an issue.

[Anthony 1,003]

obviously you have no MOT until the work is done so getting it home may be an issue.

Not quite true as I understand it.

 

You can legitimately drive to a pre-booked MOT and then back from the MOT station without an MOT (or tax, but you need insurance). You can also drive to a pre-booked appointment at a garage to have the repair work undertaken.

 

If you still have a current MOT (i.e. you've taken it to be tested before the old one expired) then you can still drive the car normally until the MOT runs out - failing an MOT doesn't automatically void the old one.

 

Obviously if it's failed the MOT then there's a question of whether the car is roadworthy and as such whether it should be used on the road or not, but that's a separate issue to the MOT. This is especially true if the tester has declared that they feel that the car is dangerous.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

I'd say pricing that is harder than that, Handbrake cables? unless split I doubt these would be needed it would be the shoe arm's that have rusted up and just need cleaning or while it's apart replace the lot as they don;t last too long,

 

Emissions excessive, what where the reading's as adjustment may or may not sort

 

Also with the steering boot, again as it needs tracking I'd stick 2 new rod ends on, saves in the long term,

 

But £250.00 all in sounds cheap

[scbond 15 1 Cars]

Not quite true as I understand it.

 

You can legitimately drive to a pre-booked MOT and then back from the MOT station without an MOT (or tax, but you need insurance). You can also drive to a pre-booked appointment at a garage to have the repair work undertaken.

 

If you still have a current MOT (i.e. you've taken it to be tested before the old one expired) then you can still drive the car normally until the MOT runs out - failing an MOT doesn't automatically void the old one.

 

Obviously if it's failed the MOT then there's a question of whether the car is roadworthy and as such whether it should be used on the road or not, but that's a separate issue to the MOT. This is especially true if the tester has declared that they feel that the car is dangerous.

Didn't know all of that. I know that if a tester declares it unfit it cannot be driven. Had no idea about a failed MOT and legally driving it afterwards as I've only failed one once and it was on minor work done straightaway.

[Homerjay 1]

Well I got it done

 

They also replaced a buggered wheel bearing

 

£233 all done

[Anthony 1,003]

That sounds very reasonable indeed, particularly with a wheel bearing replaced too