bondo 6 Posted July 28, 2014 Can't seem to find it - is it under the battery tray? What do i need to remove to access it? I need to change a snapped cable and don't want to remove anything I don't have to. Weird thing is that I adjusted the cable a couple of years ago but I can't for the life of me remember how i did it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,526 Posted July 28, 2014 A new cable should have everything needed on it. There are two nuts on a threaded bar that allow you to adjust it then lock the nuts together to stop them unwinding on their own. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
S@m 156 Posted July 28, 2014 (edited) I find it is best accessed from below, don't need to take anything off then - don't even need to jack the car up in my experience. As said, its a 10mm locknut and a 13mm adjuster nut on the end of a bit of threaded car fixed to the end of the cable, clearly visible from below sticking out ahead of the gearbox. EDIT - since you are changing the cable it may be easier from above since you also have to unclip the plastic part of the cable from the gearbox casting, although i recently did one on a 1.8 diesel from below. Edited July 28, 2014 by Sam306 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bondo 6 Posted July 28, 2014 (edited) What I meant is I need to access the adjuster mechanism from above to take it off. i can't see where the cable ends so I am looking for the location of the end of the cable that should be on the right hand side (as you look at it from under the bonnet) of the engine bay somewhere but obviously buried underneath something like the air feeds or battery. I know I am being a bit thick here but I just need to know what to remove to access it from above ideally with the minimum of tools. (it is stuck in a pub car park and they are getting fed up with it sitting there). Edited July 28, 2014 by bondo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
S@m 156 Posted July 28, 2014 All you need to remove is the air inlet pipework; the long hose that goes from the slam panel to the filter box and then maybe the right angled one from the AFM to the throttle body should be enough. If that doesnt give you access then you might need to remove the AFM and its bracket aswell, but i can;t think of anything else i the way off hand but i am working from (distant) memory. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bondo 6 Posted July 29, 2014 Right sorted it. not a nice job at all due to limited access. The cable had not snapped but the plastic clip on the end of the cable at the pedal end had broken. What I did was- (after removing the lower plastic trim under the steering wheel 4srews and a bolt at the side) 1) Remove clutch pedal 16mm bolt and nut, withdraw bolt leaving metal sleeve in place and unclip the weak spring from the pedal that is there to try to push the pedal to the floor. 2) Remove battery and clamps holding it in. 3) Remove air feed elbow pipe from the air filter for better access. 4) From under the car at the front passenger side you will see the end of the cable with a 13mm and 10mm locknut on it. Remove nuts and take off the plastic and metal washers and rubber spacer. Lay these out in order so you can check the new cable has them fitted in the correct sequence/orientation. 5) from above take the little plastic box on the cable out upwards from under the battery tray remembering where it is fitted. There is a tang on each side and the box is oriented so that the closed side is uppermost. I just levered it out with a large screwdriver. 6) Trace the cable back to under the brake servo and remove it from the subframe where it is clipped in. Now you can pull the pedal end into the engine compartent. Give it a good yank to free the bulkhead grommet and you can now remove it from the car. 7) Replace the washers and locknuts in the correct sequence on the old cable as a guide for when you are fitting the new one. 8) I got a stiff bit of wire and poked it through the bulkhead hole so it could see where to feed the new cable pedal end through from the engine bay and then poked the pedal end through so I could see the white end clip in the hole from the passenger compartment. Then roughly route the cable where it was originally to keep it away from heat etc. 9) Put the plastic box bit back in the recess under the battery tray and click it in place. 10) feed the end of the new cable through the clutch arm (having removed all the washers and nuts from it). 11) reattach the washers and nuts in the correct order using the old cable you reconstructed as a reference but leave it loose- do not tighten the locknuts just put them on the end. 12) Now attach the pedal by hooking the hook into the recess of the white clip from inside the car and reattach the bolt/nut/spring. 13) The bulkhead grommet will still not be in place and you can't just push it in. Operate the pedal several times and this will force the grommet into place in the bulkhead. 14) now adjust/tighten the locknuts so the pedal is about level with the brake pedal. 15) Test and adjust if necessary and clip the cable back into the clips on the subframe so it is secure. 16) Replace the plastic trim under the column and you are done. The above sounds ok but it is a pain in the ass as you can't really see what you are doing. 17) Drink lager Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bondo 6 Posted July 30, 2014 (edited) 18) Wonder why it won't start and think you've disturbed all the electrics and bust something. 19) After much reflection reinstall the battery. Edited July 30, 2014 by bondo 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites