Saviour

[gruffa 7]

Who wants to earn a case of beers and grind some front seats out for me

It seems that all the nuts are rounding off and they have welded it in places

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

2: Am not sure whether to put an Mi16 or GTi-6 engine in? What would be easier? Are the engine mounts the same? Will it fit to the exhaust without modifying the car?

 

You are opening a can of worms asking that question

 

Mi16 and GTi6 both sit on the same mounts. Gti6 sits higher than the Mi so would need sitting on a smaller left hand mount and dropping on the gearbox mount (easily done). Both engine require re-angling of the exhaust manifold or fitting of a spacer re-angle plate.

 

If it were me, I would go MI16 every time, but i'm old skool.

[gruffa 7]

Well I have finally got the seats out and started on the dash, not come across to much rust and just a small bit of welding needed, what is the best thing to do with the floor drains, should i stick or weld them down?

Thought I would give the interior a rub down and coat it in waxoyl with a coat of Hammerite over the top!!!!

[gruffa 7]

rear foot well

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

Clean all the grot out, then you can stick those plugs back in place. Something like Gripfill is a good choice. I have sketched them up to have stainless steel replacements made, but I haven't got them cut yet.

 

Painting wise, you cannot paint over the top of waxoyl. I wouldn't use waxoyl on the interior floorpans anyway, it will stink the car out!

 

For inside any decent paint will suffice although as you can see the original survives quite well.

[gruffa 7]

Pic 1: this is the worst of the rust that I have come across, should be easily treated.

Pic 2: found the seat welded down, gonna weld a new strip in once I've tidied it up a bit.

Pic 3: think this is the immobilizer, not looking forward to taking this out, hate electrics.

[gruffa 7]

 

 

Painting wise, you cannot paint over the top of waxoyl. I wouldn't use waxoyl on the interior floorpans anyway, it will stink the car out!

 

For inside any decent paint will suffice although as you can see the original survives quite well.

So would it be better just rubbing it down and giving it a quick coat of hammerite

Read on another site that you could paint over waxoyl!!! what would be best for rust repellent then? have looked at a product called por-15, is quite expensive but really good apparently (for underneath and wheelarches)

[Anthony 1,000]

Waxoyl is, as the name suggests, an waxy finish that never truely dries and hence painting over it wouldn't work.

 

You shouldn't really need it on the floorpan inside the passenger compartment anyway as if you sort out any leaks the interior shouldn't get damp enough for rust to be a problem. Grind away any rust, treat it, and then paint over the top to seal it and give it some protection.

 

The underside of the floorpan, wheel arches etc are a different matter entirely of course.

[gruffa 7]

What's the best thing to treat it with? is it an ordinary white primer? just want to give the inside a quick coat to help prevent rust starting.

[GLPoomobile 958]

Also, some would argue that Hammerite is pretty crap too. I'm on the fence with that one. I've never been overly happy with results from Hammerite, so I'd use it for some things, but probably not on any body panels whether or not that be interior or exterior and regardless of whether it's hidden from view or not.

[gruffa 7]

not gonna use it on the outside, only the interior.

[Anthony 1,000]

What's the best thing to treat it with? is it an ordinary white primer? just want to give the inside a quick coat to help prevent rust starting.

After grinding back as much as you can, treat any rust (or previously rusty areas that now appear rust-free) with a rust converter. There's various options out there, but something like Kurust would be OK in the interior and is cheaply and readily available from the likes of Halfords.

 

Certainly not the best out there, but IMO the interior isn't really an issue and I've used Kurust successfully in the past for such jobs. For exterior or other areas directly exposed to moisture you'd probably want something else though, and obviously on heavy rust it isn't going to do much.

 

Also, some would argue that Hammerite is pretty crap too. I'm on the fence with that one. I've never been overly happy with results from Hammerite, so I'd use it for some things, but probably not on any body panels whether or not that be interior or exterior and regardless of whether it's hidden from view or not.

Hammerite certainly isn't the best thing out there, but I would say that it's fine for the floorpan given that it's hidden from view - certainly wouldn't want it on anything in plain view though like exterior panels! If nothing else, it's fairly cheap, easy to apply and quite hard wearing stuff. Really depends on the finish that you want and what you're wanting to achieve.

 

One thing I would say though is to get the brush on stuff in a tin - the spray paint version is, IMO anyway, utter s**te.

[PAGOS 15 4 Cars]

Several light coats of Hammerite Smooth , brush on,. thinned down with Hammerite thinners on a well prepared dry & de-greased surface , allowing good drying between coats. Ideal for your floor pan where its not visible .The aerosol version doesn't have the same penetration qualities in my experience .

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Best thing for underneath is used engine oil. I always save my oil changes and squirt it all over underneath every now and then. Its not a pretty sight but it'll never rust.

[PAGOS 15 4 Cars]

Hope you remember to clean it off before your M.O.T. With my luck I'd get failed for a bad oil leak.

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

This is the stuff that was used on my shell

 

http://s1238.photobucket.com/user/mrfirepro/media/205%20projects/paintwork/PICT0388_533x400.jpg.html

Edited May 27, 2014 by mrfirepro

[Kane 34]

Jotun jotamastic 87 is the way to go I think. It's an epoxy mastic primer used in the marine industry, has excellent abrasive and water/moisture protection. I used it for under my floor pan, engine bay, wheel arches and am now using it inside my car. It's sets to an almost elasticated finish which prevents any cracking caused by stones etc being kicked up from the road.

 

IIRC it costs around £45-50 for a 5 litre (including hardener) tin and comes in a few different colours. As it is pretty thick I thinned it down for use inside the vehicle, I had a go at thinning it down to use in a cup gun for my engine bay and that turned out quite well also.

[gruffa 7]

Well it's been a while as I was borrowing my neighbors small tool set so decided to invest in a set of Halfords advanced socket set for £75 (definitely a good choice too).

Because most of the nut were rusted together, and the exhaust was a one piece I had to remove it from the manifold which meant removing the subframe first.

After that I disconnected the engine and lowered it onto a sledge and jacked the front of the car up to drag it out. (that was this morning)

 

Gonna strip down the subframe and save most of it, apart from the suspension.

Prob gonna strip down the engine and sell it in part to fund a new engine.

Edited June 29, 2014 by gruffa

[gruffa 7]

Once the engine was out the way I thought I would crack on with cleaning the engine bay ready for painting.

Here is a before and after, was quite happy with the outcome for a days work, not as bad as I though underneath all the grease and crap, also quite satisfying to see it looking clean