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dobboy

Timing Belt Help

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ablister

Timing pins should go back in without much force, sounds like you have the timing ever so slightly out.

 

As said in previous posts, you need to slacken off cam pulley bolts so you have movement in the pulleys. This is when the belt gets tensioned as the pulleys move to allow the tension to reach the entire belt.

 

After it's tensioned, you tighten the cam pulley bolts back up (40NM iirc). This can be tricky as you need to keep the pulleys still while tightening the bolts, there's a peugeot special tool that does this. I've heard of other ways to keep them locked without the special tool but i've never tried.

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dobboy

Ablist, thanks, I've tried again for 4th time, and I believe it's worked!

 

But my tension gauge is a smidgen too tight. But I think this is as good as it will get.

 

Gonna rotate the engine a few times and make sure all is well.

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dobboy

Thank you all for your help, I think I've cracked it.

 

I can get 5mm Allen keys right in the cams and the crank looks spot on.

 

Praise The Lord!

 

I hope you are looking forward to me doing the clutch lol

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deathbringer929

Thank you all for your help, I think I've cracked it.

 

I can get 5mm Allen keys right in the cams and the crank looks spot on.

 

Praise The Lord!

 

I hope you are looking forward to me doing the clutch lol

cant wait for you to do the clutch it will be thread gold number 3!!

 

seriously, credit to you for having a go. how else are you supposed to learn? keep the momentum going and you'll get there.

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Harni

Should just slip over the tensioner if its on correctly. You want to crack off the cam pullies as others have said (you will find they will rotate probably about 30 degrees by hand), rotate them both fully clockwise, start with the belt over the crank pulley, over both cam pullies then over the tensioner and water pump then when you tension the belt, it will pull the belt evenly tight all the way around the belt. Just don't forget to retighten the pullies once the belt is tensioned.

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dobboy

cant wait for you to do the clutch it will be thread gold number 3!!

 

seriously, credit to you for having a go. how else are you supposed to learn? keep the momentum going and you'll get there.

Lol thanks, dunno what all the fuss was about, jobs a doddle! (cos I'm a mechanic now, I've even started smoking rollies and drink tea with four sugars in it.)

 

But, there's a couple of things that I could do with a wee bit clarification on.

 

Using the hole on the crank as the reference point, I noticed that it took two revolutions of crank pulley to turn the cam pulleys 1 revolution. So, does this mean that if the crank pulley hole is lined up with the cut out, that 2 cylinders will be TDC? and a further revolution the other two cylinders will be TDC?

 

And secondly, I have a second engine with a gearbox and starter on it where the timing belt has failed, and I don't want to spend any money on it. If I fitted the belt I replaced today on this engine and timed it up, would any valve damage to it be easily noticed when turning the crank by hand? Would I hear/feel it etc?

 

Is it easy enough to get the gearbox into neutral when its out the car?

 

Thanks

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marksorrento205

The cams turn once for every two turns of the crank - that is correct - google it and watch a video to see why and understand it :)

 

If the belt has snapped there will be bent valves - question is how many.

 

Just move the levers on the gearbox where the rods connect and you will feel it click out of gear into neutral.

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Miles

The crank pulley lines up MDC and not TDC which give loads of room for the Valves.

How did you tension the tensioner?

 

Parts wise you will find loads of things listed for 205's which will never fit or where ever fitted from new, I always have this argument with parts suppliers from time to time, It's just knowledge which gets you the right part

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dobboy

Hi miles, when I checked the belt it was in fact 137 (the car isn't kept at home). The 136 I seen was on my old belt.

 

It took a few shots of locking off, loosening, turning the crank, before I eventually could get all 3 locked off in position.... Whilst always rotating crank clockwise. I then loosened pulleys, and used auto tensioner, but, sometimes when I retightend cams the tension would rise, but on the last attempt I worked the cams and tensioner together before giving it all the final tighten. The belt tensioner kit was very easy to use. Although the belt sits just a smidgen too tight....

 

I've rotated the engine half a dozen times and everything all seems fine.

 

Thanks again to yourself and Welshpug, I'd never have managed it without your replies on fri night..... In fact i probably would still be wondering how the tensioner worked!

 

Off to find out what MDC means.

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dobboy

The last time i done my belt, it was a real tug of war and i left it with one of the holes being about 1/4 of a hole out...... anyway, it's prayed on my mind so today i thought i'd time up again, after phoning a 205 owner who is a mechanic, and after nearly loosing a finger.

 

I didn't realise that it would be so much easier without spark plugs in, and i've got it spot on now.

 

 

My only concern is that i'd like to check that i'm not 360 degrees out on the crank pully, and would also like confirmation that on the 8V pully, that it is the centre hole of the group of three that should be used for 16V timing.

 

If i put a cable tie in the cylinder closest to cam the pullies, when all holes are lined up, and the proceed to turn the engine clockwise, should the cable tie go up or down?

 

TIA

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Tom Fenton

How can you get the crank pulley 360 degrees "out"? It is not possible.

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dobboy

Thanks Tom, (I know nada about engines) but did notice it took 2 complete crank turns for on cam turn, but now you mention it, the three holes can't line up if it was out.

 

What about the hole I used on the 8v pulley? Is the centre of the three the correct to use?

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dobboy

Here we go again.

 

Fitted timing belt to another engine, the code on the one that came off (Dayco 137 250), new one is Dayco 137 254.

 

After i fitted it i just didn't think it was right, so them fitted old one to see if any difference.

 

Then fitted another belt off another engine.

 

I have spent about 5hrs doing this.

 

My problems are when i loosen the inlet cam bolt, the cog part doesn't move, maybe just seized?

 

And more concerning is now when i turn the engine over via the crank bolt the engine turns 100deg or so a then comes to a solid halt.

 

Any ideas?

 

Tia

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cheesegrater

I assume the plugs are out?

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Mattr5uk

As long and nothing has fallen into the bores during assembly then the only reason it'll be locking up is the timings out.

How did you go about marking up or locking crankshaft?

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dobboy

Plugs are out. I locked cams with two 5mm allen keys, and crank with 8mm bolt.

 

Nothing has fallen into bores to my knowledge.

 

You think just try time it again from scratch?

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Mattr5uk

That's what I'd do. I can't remember the set up without seeing it, do these have the 3 bolts round the cam pulleys for adjustment?

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dobboy

No, it has one big one in middle, and a tab thing that you pin with a 5mm pin/allen key. there is a pic of my last engine earlier on the thread if you need a squint.

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Mattr5uk

Stick a photo up of where your at with it. Just another thought it could be something gearbox end I've had techs before struggling only to realise it's in gear,.

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dobboy

Will do matt. I thought about gearbox but on one ocasion i spun the crank with belt off no problem. Been given the all clear for another attempt today.

 

Just hope i've not broke/bent something fecking about with it.

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aldworth33

If you've not got this im in edinburgh tomorrow, I could possibly come across to give you a hand if your not grafting

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welshpug

Will do matt. I thought about gearbox but on one ocasion i spun the crank with belt off no problem.

 

as in a total revolution??

 

 

Just hope i've not broke/bent something fecking about with it.

quite likely

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dobboy

Got it done. Spun it over a dozen times and all is well.

 

The embarrassing part.

 

The 8v pully wheel wasn't fully home on the woodruff key....doh!

 

Fortunately as i haven't put too much effort into turning it over as i knew something wasn't right, and hope i've got away with it.

 

Feck knows how you could do this when engine is in a car! Hats off to those to manage it.

 

Cheers for the help

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dobboy

For future reference for me, on a couple of occassions when trying to time this up using the auto tensioner doo da, i would set the needle in the notch using the allen key, but then when i started to torque the cam pulleys up, the needle would move substantially away from the set point.

 

Is there a method/technique to avoid this and keep it near the notch?

 

TIA

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