Xu10 J2Te Cut Out And Not Starting

[NFS 32]

Hi, me again with what i think is the same issue as before, i was driving home from ace cafe and i was doing about 60, then suddenly the engine lost power, I had the AA man come round and he tested the power at the ignition amp when the igniton was on its furthest click (ign on) and he said there was no powered getting to the igntion amp.

 

what could cause this? checked all the fuses but nothing had blown.

[welshpug 1,622]

Check the shunt box connections, also the double relay.

[NFS 32]

what is the shunt box, is that the black box in the engine bay at the front? open it and it has two fuses and some fuse blanks? and is the double relay the ones that are in the engine bay or in the dash? thanks

[welshpug 1,622]

yeah, shunt box is the main live connection from the battery to the rest of the car.

 

you may have two separate relays rather than one single 15 pin relay, depends which car the donor wiring loom came from.

Edited November 19, 2013 by welshpug

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

what is the shunt box, is that the black box in the engine bay at the front?

Yes, either bolted directly to the slam panel or on a bracket that uses the slam panel bolts to secure it as standard.

 

and is the double relay the ones that are in the engine bay or in the dash? thanks

That could all depend on where your ecu is on the conversion, usually its not to far from the ecu, either a black or brown relay.

 

g.

[NFS 32]

yeah, shunt box is the main live connection from the battery to the rest of the car.

 

you may have two separate relays rather than one single 15 pin relay, depends which car the donor wiring loom came from.

Im asuming this is the shunt box? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-205-XS-GTI-DIMMA-SHUNT-BOX-FUSE-ENGINE-BX12-/190855157848

 

so if i dont have power at my amp, what is the next wire to check if it has power? for example i have done this.

 

1. spark - no spark
2. coil - no volts
3. igniton amp - no volts
4. whats next in the line?

 

Yes, either bolted directly to the slam panel or on a bracket that uses the slam panel bolts to secure it as standard.

 

That could all depend on where your ecu is on the conversion, usually its not to far from the ecu, either a black or brown relay.

 

g.

my ecu is sitting lazy where the battary would have been in the engine bay,

is it possible to remove the engine wiring loom without taking the dash out and removing s*it load od parts? does the loom go from the engine to the two brown plugs? thanks

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

Im asuming this is the shunt box? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-205-XS-GTI-DIMMA-SHUNT-BOX-FUSE-ENGINE-BX12-/190855157848

yes.that is the shunt box.

 

so if i dont have power at my amp, what is the next wire to check if it has power? for example i have done this.

• spark - no spark
• coil - no volts
• igniton amp - no volts
• whats next in the line?

my ecu is sitting lazy where the battary would have been in the engine bay,

is it possible to remove the engine wiring loom without taking the dash out and removing s*it load od parts? does the loom go from the engine to the two brown plugs? thanks

 

Iirc, the double injection relay sends power to both the coil & ignition amp after the ignition switched live closes the relay to complete the circuit, who did the wiring conversion on your car?

 

Not to sure how it works with the seperate relays on an early loom but I assume one of the two relays is an ignition relay that does the same job.

 

You don't have to fully remove the dash to remove the jetronic loom but it does have to be loosened off with the nuts removed underthe scuttle panel, onebehind the airvent & the dash small triangle panel has a bolt that needs undoing to give enough slack, the instrument binnacle & clocks need to be out.

 

g

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

What motor did your engine come out of? Mines from a phase 1 605

 

When i did the wiring for mine during the summer i found a plug that had to have permanent live, its wires are 46 (thick yellow wire that powers the coil, throttle body heater and starter motor relay feed. I "THINK" it does the ignition amp too but dont quote me on that!), and 176 (small grey wire). Without these two wires connected to a live my double relay just ticked continuously.

 

When you power these 2 wires it makes the ecu earth the double relay through wire number 3 (Brown), which in turn turns the fuel pump on.

 

Its in my struggle thread in my signature anyway.

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=147595&page=2&do=findComment&comment=1356872

Edited November 19, 2013 by Slo

[NFS 32]

yes.that is the shunt box.

 

Iirc, the double injection relay sends power to both the coil & ignition amp after the ignition switched live closes the relay to complete the circuit, who did the wiring conversion on your car?

 

Not to sure how it works with the seperate relays on an early loom but I assume one of the two relays is an ignition relay that does the same job.

 

You don't have to fully remove the dash to remove the jetronic loom but it does have to be loosened off with the nuts removed underthe scuttle panel, onebehind the airvent & the dash small triangle panel has a bolt that needs undoing to give enough slack, the instrument binnacle & clocks need to be out.

 

g

Not sure, i bought the car like that, i have taken the engine loom off to inspect and repair any wires, as they are in bad shape TBH. the engine loom was all connected to a small muliti plug in the engine bay so i didnt have to remove the dash

 

What motor did your engine come out of? Mines from a phase 1 605

 

When i did the wiring for mine during the summer i found a plug that had to have permanent live, its wires are 46 (thick yellow wire that powers the coil, throttle body heater and starter motor relay feed. I "THINK" it does the ignition amp too but dont quote me on that!), and 176 (small grey wire). Without these two wires connected to a live my double relay just ticked continuously.

 

When you power these 2 wires it makes the ecu earth the double relay through wire number 3 (Brown), which in turn turns the fuel pump on.

 

Its in my struggle thread in my signature anyway.

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=147595&page=2&do=findComment&comment=1356872

again i dont know what engine it came out of, i think its an RGX engine but how else would i tell what phase i have?

 

honestly im s*ite at wiring!

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Some pictures would be a lot easier to identify. The engine codeis stamped on the front to the right of the oil filter/heat exchanger. Also ecu number.

[NFS 32]

Hi Guys, i stripped the loom and found a couple of splits in a few wires, one being a small green wire that comes off the ignition amp?

 

i have also found this coming from the brown/orange fuel relay thing.

 

 

 

could this be the two green wires that supply go to the igniton amp?

and why are they solidered to gether? are they just lives so it doesnt matter if they are together?

[welshpug 1,622]

small green wire means very little, which pin ??

 

as for the soldered wires, if the rest are like that I would get the loom off the car and find a wiring diagram, go through the whole lot.

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

looks like you have the citroen version of wiring there cant find where wire 63 goes, as you haven't put up your ecu number no one can help you without guessing

[NFS 32]

i think from memory this is wires in the ign amp plug

 

 

and this the only pic i have of the ECU

 

[welshpug 1,622]

219

 

afaik that's an 0261 200 219, 93 on 605 or XM, with that loom colours it'll be Citroen.

 

 

your diagram makes sense as it is a wasted spark system using one 7 pin amp.

[welshpug 1,622]

found this

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=63508

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

yes 219 on the end its the same as mine so no immobiliser, however do you have the keypad in yours?

[NFS 32]

219

 

afaik that's an 0261 200 219, 93 on 605 or XM, with that loom colours it'll be Citroen.

 

 

your diagram makes sense as it is a wasted spark system using one 7 pin amp.

 

Thanks WP, can anyone tell me what the green wires are, im going to look at the diagrams but wiring diagrams are hard for me to read.

 

found this

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=63508

 

i will check this out thanks

 

yes 219 on the end its the same as mine so no immobiliser, however do you have the keypad in yours?

 

i have no keypad! i never have done. interesting.

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Does your fuel pump run even though its not starting? One of those joined wires maybe the earth for the ecu that the keypad would originally control via the double relay.

[welshpug 1,622]

 

Thanks WP, can anyone tell me what the green wires are, im going to look at the diagrams but wiring diagrams are hard for me to read.

 

 

 

 

put the multimeter on beep setting and connect one probe to those wires, and work your way through the wiring loom until you find what they are connected to with the other probe.

 

then look at the diagram and you should see which those wires are and what they should do.

 

also do the same with the two tails poking out of the plug, you will see numbers moulded into the inside of the plug by the pins, check which pin numbers they are connected to and label them.

Edited November 22, 2013 by welshpug

[NFS 32]

Does your fuel pump run even though its not starting? One of those joined wires maybe the earth for the ecu that the keypad would originally control via the double relay.

 

Yeah im pretty sure it does. it defo doesnt have a spark. so if these keypad wires are not joined would that stop a spark? thanks

 

 

 

put the multimeter on beep setting and connect one probe to those wires, and work your way through the wiring loom until you find what they are connected to with the other probe.

 

then look at the diagram and you should see which those wires are and what they should do.

Thanks Mei i dont think my Muilimeter is good enough for that as i did try it earlier, what is the techincal name for checking breaks in the wires?

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

No spark and working fuel pump, hmm probably ignition amp popped have you tried a spare?

 

The keypad on this engine and wiring is as I found out myself just a simple way of turning something on and off rather than how a complex coded immobiliser works with a transponder key etc, it really is quite simple and if you never had the keypad then its obviously been bypassed so forget about it.

 

Before i found out how to wire up my keypad properly i had spark from day 1 just no fuel pump and ticking double relay

 

 

 

Yeah im pretty sure it does. it defo doesnt have a spark. so if these keypad wires are not joined would that stop a spark? thanks

 

Does it run non stop or does it prime and cut off when you turn the key on?

Edited November 22, 2013 by Slo

[welshpug 1,622]

If your MM doesn't have a beep setting then any resistance setting will do, as you wont get any reading at all till you hit the right wire.

[NFS 32]

No spark and working fuel pump, hmm probably ignition amp popped have you tried a spare?

 

The keypad on this engine and wiring is as I found out myself just a simple way of turning something on and off rather than how a complex coded immobiliser works with a transponder key etc, it really is quite simple and if you never had the keypad then its obviously been bypassed so forget about it.

 

Before i found out how to wire up my keypad properly i had spark from day 1 just no fuel pump and ticking double relay

 

 

 

Does it run non stop or does it prime and cut off when you turn the key on?

i havent tried a spare, because the muilitmeter said there was no current getting to the amp. i havent checked the fuel pump but i can imagine it does still work. Humm

[Anthony 1,000]

Current or voltage? Very different things that you need to test for in different ways...