205 1.9 Engine Issue.

[forbeslongden 32 13 Cars]

Hey there guys, I'm not sure if this topic is in the right place....

 

I've got a pre-cat 1.9 205 GTi that is having some weird engine issues, the car seems to start then cut out for the first couple of minutes of my journey, it's really annoying and I've sent it to a tuning specialist who cut down the cutting out (it used to be like every junction it would do it at for at least 10 minutes)

 

The car is idling best at 2000 but will idle at 1500 with a quick blip of the accelerator although anything less than that it starts to get lumpy and fight hard not to cut out, the oil level gauge will drop along with the revs too as if the car is ready to switch off.

 

Now, I could live possibly with the car idling at 2000 revs but, I'm going through fuel like a tap left on, the car is shocking for economy. There's a K&N filter in place of the air box and all the oil pipe silicone has been cut and blocked off - I'm not sure why and what this could potentially do to my engine?

 

The car smells like a petrol station most of the time too. What can I do to get it revving back down to say, 900 revs at idle and improve the MPG?

 

Any help would be ideal.... Thanks!

Edited July 9, 2013 by forbeslongden

[forbeslongden 32 13 Cars]

Anybody?

[Henry Yorke 269 3 Cars]

Wrong injectors? Wrong airflow meter? Have you taken your plugs out to see if they are wet? It sounds like it is over fuelling and then flooding

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

unblock the breathers

[forbeslongden 32 13 Cars]

I had the airflow replaced although it was another second hand one so could be at fault.... Seems to be wet around the plugs.

 

Will unblocking the breathers without them connected to anything do damage?

 

Sorry guys for the obvious questions I'm not really that experienced with engines

[DanteICE 72]

It's definitely over fueling, if it cuts out and then won't restart without churning it on the starter then it's over fueling.

 

First thing is to remove the AFM, throttle body and SAD, clean them all up and I mean proper clean, using carb cleaner. The throttle body idle screw cleaning is a must. Make sure the SAD pipes are clear and you can also clean the breather pipes while you're at it. The breather pipes are anything attached to the inlet. (Someone will confirm this if I'm wrong).

 

Remove the plugs and give them a good clean and set the gaps to the correct spacing. What colour injectors are they, pretty sure they should be yellow (again someone confirm?), although mine were black because of the dirt.

 

If you've got time, remove the injectors and there is a guy on the forums who will check and service them for you for £10 per injector.

 

I can only presume the car is idling high because someone has set it like that to stop it from stalling? A compression test may be in order, just to know you have all your cylinders in order.

 

If it was me, I'd get new spark plugs and leads. They are cheap enough and if you can get an ignition coil cheap enough then you might as well. This will make sure that your sparking is strong enough. You can change the ignition amp unit, but this is risky as new ones by Bosch are expensive and the copies are apparently crap. (You might find a guide on how to test that).

 

Then buy yourself a new water temp sensor (Bosch - £15 at most) as a broken one of these will indicate cold all the time and the engine will over fuel to compensate. (Even if it's not this, worth changing it as they often break).

 

Start with that lot and after that we can look at the rotor arm and vacuum advance unit.

 

They are quite nice simple engines, just ask for advice there is loads of knowledge on here.

 

Geoff

[forbeslongden 32 13 Cars]

That's great! I'll get on all of these, thanks!

[forbeslongden 32 13 Cars]

Where would I find a new water temperature sensor?

[MikeC 10]

Peugeot 024246. still available. If you research the part number you can get a bosch alternative for around 15 quid

[DamirGTI 327]

It's too much money buying the sensor from Peugeot directly .

 

Go to your local car part store with OE part No. and you'll get same part (Bosch) half price off .. even the aftermarket stuff works as well (Facet) and it's dirty cheap when comparing prices from Peugeot or either the Bosch item .

 

http://www.facet.it/index.asp

 

D

[MikeC 10]

Bought one in Pug for €40 myself.

[forbeslongden 32 13 Cars]

Would GSF/Euro Car Parts do it?

[welshpug 1,626]

Yep, gsf used to do the bosch part too, not listed correctly iirc, but same as used by e30 bmw's

 

Google that pug number referencing this site and you should find the bosch number.

[forbeslongden 32 13 Cars]

Nice! In the past GSF have been less than useful, they always confuse a 205 GTi with a 206 when I ask! They were a gold mine when I had a VW Bug but when it comes to my 205 they rarely have anything.

[luggy 13]

The car is idling best at 2000 but will idle at 1500 with a quick blip of the accelerator although anything less than that it starts to get lumpy and fight hard not to cut out, the oil level gauge will drop along with the revs too as if the car is ready to switch off.

 

Does it only do this from cold or does it clear after the engine has warmed up?

 

Any history about the car, have you made any changes or has it always done this since ownership?

 

[forbeslongden 32 13 Cars]

No it's still as bad when the engine is warm. The car will run fine when it's not about to get to a stop at a junction... It seems to have a problem with being driven from first on a hill too (fuel pump?) and reverse will almost always result in a massive rev drop / stall.

 

I've had the clutch changed since owning it as the previous owner said the one was on its way out. Also the car was tuned by a performance engine specialist but its still not right. I'm getting really annoyed with it, beautiful car - horrid engine!

[DanteICE 72]

What have you done out of the list of things to do that I gave you?

 

Geoff

[DanteICE 72]

The water temp sensor is a Bosch 0280130026

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bosch-0280130026-Water-Temperature-Sensor-WTS-For-OEM-Motec-DTA-Emerald-ECU-/111076895340?ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:GB:1123

 

Bought one off this guy not long back.

[welshpug 1,626]

this is what comes up on the gsf website if you search for the bosch part number, ignore the pic

 

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/929bm0140

 

usually cheaper if you pop in the branch too.

[DanteICE 72]

this is what comes up on the gsf website if you search for the bosch part number, ignore the pic

 

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/929bm0140

 

usually cheaper if you pop in the branch too.

 

At least my link had the right picture...

[luggy 13]

No it's still as bad when the engine is warm. The car will run fine when it's not about to get to a stop at a junction... It seems to have a problem with being driven from first on a hill too (fuel pump?) and reverse will almost always result in a massive rev drop / stall.

I've had the clutch changed since owning it as the previous owner said the one was on its way out. Also the car was tuned by a performance engine specialist but its still not right. I'm getting really annoyed with it, beautiful car - horrid engine!

 

 

It sounds like you possibly have a combination of fueling and ignition problems.

 

Like the guys have previously mentioned, get the water temp sensor replaced,

 

It's definitely over fueling, if it cuts out and then won't restart without churning it on the starter then it's over fueling.

 

First thing is to remove the AFM, throttle body and SAD, clean them all up and I mean proper clean, using carb cleaner. The throttle body idle screw cleaning is a must. Make sure the SAD pipes are clear and you can also clean the breather pipes while you're at it. The breather pipes are anything attached to the inlet. (Someone will confirm this if I'm wrong).

 

Remove the plugs and give them a good clean and set the gaps to the correct spacing. What colour injectors are they, pretty sure they should be yellow (again someone confirm?), although mine were black because of the dirt.

 

I can only presume the car is idling high because someone has set it like that to stop it from stalling? A compression test may be in order, just to know you have all your cylinders in order.

 

If it was me, I'd get new spark plugs and leads. They are cheap enough and if you can get an ignition coil cheap enough then you might as well. This will make sure that your sparking is strong enough. You can change the ignition amp unit, but this is risky as new ones by Bosch are expensive and the copies are apparently crap. (You might find a guide on how to test that).

 

Then buy yourself a new water temp sensor (Bosch - £15 at most) as a broken one of these will indicate cold all the time and the engine will over fuel to compensate. (Even if it's not this, worth changing it as they often break).

 

Start with that lot and after that we can look at the rotor arm and vacuum advance unit.

 

They are quite nice simple engines, just ask for advice there is loads of knowledge on here.

 

Geoff

 

Follow the advice that Geoff has recommended

 

If you still get problems with it by the weekend drop me a PM with your number and you can pop by and I'll have a look to see what can be done

 

Good luck ​

[forbeslongden 32 13 Cars]

I'll start hunting parts down ASAP! Thanks guys, everyone is so helpful here

[luggy 13]

I'll start hunting parts down ASAP! Thanks guys, everyone is so helpful here

Pm me your number and bring her over on Saturday as she is and we'll have a look. ! ​

[DanteICE 72]

I'll start hunting parts down ASAP! Thanks guys, everyone is so helpful here

 

Yes this forum has some of the most helpful people in the world (some people however are miserable and want you to use the search function like it's the bible or something, still think we need to collate more information on the ins and outs of the 205 and the issues and fixes - MORE GUIDES!!! )

[luggy 13]

Good to meet your Forbes

As per my text, pretty sure the issue your having with the car not idling below 2k, and the initial throttle depression nearly causing the car to stall is possibly something to do with the aftermarket camshaft that's in there, as you mentioned the car came with an additional cam.

 

You can identify the cam if its non standard with makings on the end of the camshaft on the dizzy side which will require the removal of the dizzy, just make sure you mark up the dizzy to a ref point on the camcover so you put it back as is.

 

I'd recommend changing the dizzy seal as well.

 

The overfuelling is again possibly down to the camshaft as you took it to Alan Jeffery to get it checked out so he's probably adjusted the fuelling to the requirements of the camshaft and you mentioned it goes really well just need to boot it!

Let us know what your findings are, don't want you spending money trying to resolve something which isn't achievable.

 

Good Luck ​

Edited August 5, 2013 by luggy