Drive Shaft Play And Clunking

[d7ve_b 44 1 Cars]

So, when turning right at low speeds there's a rumbling from the front of the pug. From searching the consensus seems to be one of the drive shafts.

 

I've lay underneath and tried to turn the shafts by hand, there's no movement in the N/S short one or the outer end of the O/S shaft, however if I try the inner end of the O/S shaft it turns just slightly, probably a mm or so.

 

Could this be the cause of the clunking? It seems logical but I've never diagnosed shafts before so thought I'd ask before swapping it out.

[bondo 6]

I've got a brand new pair here (GKN) that I am fitting tomorrow. When I grasp the splines at both ends and try to twist the o/s one there is no play whatsoever. I think that may be your answer.

[DamirGTI 327]

Id look at the wheel bearings (if it makes rumbling noise) .. driveshafts usually have small amount of free play , which doesn't affect the steering issues if it's not obviously sloppy , so more than just a "few mm."

 

D

[d7ve_b 44 1 Cars]

Id look at the wheel bearings (if it makes rumbling noise) .. driveshafts usually have small amount of free play , which doesn't affect the steering issues if it's not obviously sloppy , so more than just a "few mm."

 

D

 

I initially thought of the wheel bearings but there doesn't seem to be any other signs of bearing failure, unless there's something I've missed. Hmmm decisions decisions....

[DamirGTI 327]

How did you checked the bearings ?

 

By just turning the wheels on the front and listing , in my cases i cod hear some bearing rumbling .. but not as "sensible" nor precise to pinpoint which wheel is bad .

 

Only when the hub is disassembled - wheel removed , disc , caliper , driveshaft central nut removed and end of the shaft sided off the hub .

Then , it's 100% precise to diagnose which bearing is on the way to go , or bad enough already by spinning/rocking the hub .

 

If it's totally worn out , then you'll feel it just by jacking up the car and rocking the tire which will be wobbly at all sides ..

 

The front bearings are much bigger than rears , hence they last longer then rears usually ... but , still need to check all the 4 sides fronts and rears .

 

Rear bearings are easier to , state diagnose .. just by turning/rocking the wheels .

 

 

D

[d7ve_b 44 1 Cars]

Just rocking/spinning the wheels when it's in the air. There's also no audible noise from the wheels when driving straight ahead (flat or going over bumps) or turning left. The cars had a new N/S bearing ~18 months ago and a new O/S bearing ~two years ago.

 

I'm not saying bearings aren't the culprit, it's just the clunking only when turning right that makes me think its the shaft....

[Anthony 1,000]

Does the noise worsen under acceleration/load? If so, I'd suggest that it's a 'shaft rather than bearing, especially as you're now saying "clunking" rather than "rumbling"

[d7ve_b 44 1 Cars]

I should probably clarify my poor choice of words in my first post The clunking noise is only audible when turning right. There's no audible noise when going straight ahead. I've not noticed it worsen under load as I've been taking it easy round right-handers. I'll give it some beans on a right-hander and have a closer listen.

[Lan 24 1 Cars]

get the o/s shaft changed, the intermediate bearing will have gone, and the joints will be well worn by now either way.

[DamirGTI 327]

I should probably clarify my poor choice of words in my first post The clunking noise is only audible when turning right. There's no audible noise when going straight ahead. I've not noticed it worsen under load as I've been taking it easy round right-handers. I'll give it some beans on a right-hander and have a closer listen.

 

Try to re-pack the driveshafts with grease .. just undo the CV joint boots , and stuff some CV joint grease inside (but don't get mad with the amount of grease !) , flip the boots back on and fit new boot clamps ... go for a spin and see what happens .

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

I agree pull the boots back and ideally start with the one that's probably been leaking cv grease at some point and you'll probably find rusty looking grease, clean out as much as you can re grease it(you can buy sachets of cv grease from most motor factors) and retry. And hope the joints not beyond a quick "service" to save it. Wheel bearings in my experience don't usually make much noise at low speeds usually 30mph upwards and differ with transferring weight of vehicle from one side to another. Euro car parts do replacement shafts at a reasonable price just don't buy the cheapest if your wanting it to last!

[d7ve_b 44 1 Cars]

Thanks for the advice chaps.

 

I pulled the shaft out last night, easier than I expected TBH.

 

Rang a local Motaquip dealer this morning and to my surprise, they had an O/S shaft for my car in stock (AMK brand). Picking it up tonight together with some new box oil.

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

Dave, my advise is this, do not take your old shaft back to the factors straight away, pay the surcharge for now. When you get the new shaft home you need to carefully fully compress it, then take an accurate measurement of length. From and to where isn't that important, can be end to end, or end to the shoulder that sits against the wheel bearing. Then do the same with your old shaft. The compressed length MUST be the same. If it is not then reject the new shaft.

Obviously you should not have to do this, but with the amount of shafts I have had that have been wrong I do this now as a matter of course.

[welshpug 1,626]

when checking the lengths and compressing them, do check the spring is present as it does vary, this will take up some of the difference sometimes.

[Anthony 1,000]

Also, even if the lengths do tie up, I wouldn't even consider taking the old one back until the new one is fitted and you've driven it in anger.

 

AMK have been OK from my limited exposure to them, but some "new" (read - reconditioned) driveshafts are utter rubbish and I've had them turn up in worse condition than the knackered ~25 year old one that's been taken off the car in terms of slop in the joints and knocking/noise!

[d7ve_b 44 1 Cars]

Ok, thanks chaps. I don't have the old one with me so I'll have to pay the surcharge on pick-up. I'll measure them side by side before I fit the new one.

 

Searching seemed to suggest that AMK was a decent brand, is this accurate in peoples experience? ECP/GSF display Q-drive on-line (which are pants by all accounts), GSF have said they can order me one in which is more expensive, I've asked them to confirm the brand with me before hand so I'm just waiting on their call.

[d7ve_b 44 1 Cars]

So GSF rang, their's is an AMK item as well, just more expensive than motaquip!

[d7ve_b 44 1 Cars]

Reconditioned O/S shaft and new box oil fitted....the clunking remains

 

It really sounds like its coming from the N/S front. I'm tempted to replace the drop links next as I've had one go on the Audi and that made a similar noise. There's no obvious play in it, but that was the same story with the Audi.

 

Any other thoughts?

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

You'd ideally want to get it on a pit to see if thes a problem with arb or linkages as when it's in the air it puts the weight on it and takes out most of the "play" and the noise would be more of a knocking noise youd notice driving straight ahead on a slightly rough road. A cv joint when it's heavily worn is more of a heavy rotational clicking noise much more noticeable when turning very common with the VAG cv joints.