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adie205

[Engine_Work] Mi Rebuild From A Total Beginer, Smoking Engine

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adie205

Well I thought I would do a build thread on my mi engine to help any other clueless fools like me who are beginners and the idea of an engine re-build brings out a cold sweat!

 

Story goes had my pug for over 10 years and have sorted most things out including a little engine work. After a short blast over winter I noticed the dipstick had popped out and dreaded smoke out the back. Hoped it was the breathers but sadly not, a compression test found it was well down in cylinder 3. so floods of tears as suspected piston ring.


Had a full melt down on here saying I’m selling up, break it ..blah blah blah luckily you lot hit me with a wet fish and I well known legend offered to lend a hand!


The plan


What I want to achieve is a reliable use and enjoy rebuild, nothing fancy tbh it’s more than fast enough for me but I’d love to trust the engine again.
My dad’s let me use his garage so after a spring clean it should be a nice place to strip it.
Have been reading lots of awesome info on here including the manuals, looking forward to see what’s going on in the engine but at present planning to replacing the rings, main bearings, stem seals etc. the machining: cleaning block, maybe skim, 3 angle seats, liner’s will be done by Automotive services in Northampton which has been recommended by a good lad on here. Already have a sump baffle plate and oil spring/sprocket.
So far I have the lump out and have a twin engine caddy!

engineout_zpsb5b90419.jpg

Edited by adie205

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kyepan

have a quick squiz at my thread too, as i was like you, a bit of a novice. You'll find it a really rewarding thing to do, suggest you get the engineering done by paul gardias.

Edited by kyepan

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adie205

Hi Kyepan, have been through your post with a eagle eye, great work. Really looking forward to not playing the what that noise what's that name game!

 

After this weekend in sunny hunny i'm going for it

 

Cheers

  • Like 1

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adie205

Update

Finally started working on the engine, my van has been playing up a treat (ecu gremlin) so its put me back on the pug but today I managed to get a good few ours done.

 

Engine is now on stand, have two clean worktop sides and 100 freezer bags. Today have removed the cambelt, rocker cover thermostat housing, sensors and left engine mount.

 

The first stinker is the cam bearing alen key bolts, 3 are pretty rounded have searched and thinking of getting some decent drill bits and drilling them out then getting mole grips on the treads?

 

Have put a drop of diesel on the headbolts and left to soak.

 

Apart from the rounded bolts I'm really enjoying it so far finding it quite relaxing stripping bits off and getting a better idea of the condition of the engine.

 

Finding the Haynes manual pretty helpful

 

Will get some pics up soon as

 

Cheers

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Alan_M

Get some of these for the cam carrier bolts. Irwin Bolt-Grips, about £15 to £20 and well worth it. Used one on a rounded cap-head bolt on the gearbox and got it off.

418Kz06JJwL.jpg

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adie205

great stuff, I thought these only worked for hex bolts not female that's brilliant a good mate of mine has a set I might be able to borrow.

 

Cheers Alan

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Alastairh

I have a set of those irwin extractors you can borrow. Alternatively, hammer a torx socket into the the bolt which normally does the trick.

 

Al

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pugpete1108

i had a few rounded bolts on my rebuild on the cam carriers, hammer a torx bit in there and they will come out easy.

 

the only downside is you need to replace the bolts on refitting. and they are m7 fine thread i do believe? (could be wrong)

Edited by pugpete1108

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welshpug

i

 

the only downside is you need to replace the bolts on refitting. and they are m7 fine thread i do believe? (could be wrong)

 

given they are already rounded, its not a downside at all :lol:

 

 

from memory they are 35mm long M6, not sure if they were bolts or screws though, the 2.0 used 30mm long bolts, 24 of :o

Edited by welshpug

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pugpete1108

Yeah funny man :) , you know what I mean...

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adie205

good news! I have got all three out, thanks to the great help on here. I hammered a T40 torx socket on and it worked a treat. Thankyou.

 

The cams and caps looked to be in good shape, the exhaust cam caps look more worn than the inlet but considering the engines 23 years old I'm please, think its done just over 100k will get the machine shop to cast an eye.

 

a8cf1a97-5437-420e-a4bd-7115d2eb1168_zps

 

Thought I would add to this tread a some little tips I have picked up from other posts that have really helped me and hopefully help someone like me in the future:

 

  • Remember that cylinder 1 is flywheel end, always thought it was the other way round.
  • Get a tap and die set to clean the threads out
  • Clean with a wire brush all bolts before bagging up
  • undo the bottom pulley bolt with the flywheel still on, I have done a school boy and hope I can wedge with a bit of wood
  • Get plenty of rags
  • Get some 100mm m10 nuts and bolts (£3.00 from wickes) to mount on stand and use the alt bolt as its super long
  • Should have paid the extra £10 for a 4 wheeled stand
  • Use this site, Haynes and the rebuild manual

Fingers crossed head off and sump on Tuesday, as always thank you for everyones help

Edited by adie205

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kyepan

nice work, keep it up, remember to take your bits to gardias engine services, he's the chap anthony and I use, knows his onions.

 

If you've got enough in the bank, get him to 3 angle the valve seats, deck the block and recut the liner seats, will give you 11:1 and more fizz than you thought imaginable. Plus will solve all your liner protruderance issues, the liner seats sink on one side (usually the thrust face). so he'll get them all standing proud by the right amount.

 

Also check out the rings i bought, the were pretty good.

 

J

Edited by kyepan

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welshpug

I can't find what you bought Justin :unsure: how much did you pay?

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Tom Fenton

protruderance

 

Is this a word? Surely it is liner protrusion that needs to be checked/corrected?

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kyepan

Is this a word? Surely it is liner protrusion that needs to be checked/corrected?

it's monday, a little creative licence, at least with my spelling, change the d for a b, and i give you.

 

 

pro·tu·ber·ance
/prəˈt(y)o͞ob(ə)rəns/
Noun
  1. A thing that protrudes from something else.
  2. The fact or state of protruding.
Synonyms
bulge - prominence - bump - lump - swelling - protrusion

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kyepan

I can't find what you bought Justin :unsure: how much did you pay?

 

9-3725-00 83mm x 1.5 x 1.5 Qty 4 at 12 quid ish per (but i got trade prices)

 

http://www.npr.co.jp/english/ i think these were it, blue boxes. i got some info on their coatings from their website.

Edited by kyepan

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welshpug

nice one, not a bad price that, think pug want £40 plus vat but not sure if that's per piston or not, sods law it probably is :lol:

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adie205

Had thought about those options you have had done especially with it all in my hands but tbh its probably a little bit too crazy for me, I'm a pants driver I really want it really reliable. Will get a quote just to see though.

 

Like those rings through and a great saving on pug, I'm I going mad or did I see somewhere that Vauxhall red top's fit? are better and cheaper?

 

Plan to have the head off tomorrow and see what has stopped play

 

Cheers

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kyepan

that machining doesn't require you to really do anything. in fact making sure the block deck is flat and the liner seats are level is going to make your life easier not harder. my advice, up to you though

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kyepan

also I felt the same as you do now, standard build, simple. with the benefit of hindsight I really should have decked the block when gardias offered. as it would have made for a really fizzy engine, as opposed to a pretty decent one.

 

once it had been running a few months, on went the throttle bodies, a few more months and I wanted more cam. then I got stuck with the fact I might not have enough compression. and most of the 270 ish cams needed nearer 11:1 to work really well. the point is, it's worth considering the future now, even if you've not got any plans, whilst it's apart, these things are simple.

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adie205

I do see where your coming from mate and will certainly get a quote, do like the ideal of getting a bit more from it.

 

Had a good go at it and got the head off tonight, pretty much wrestled it around the garage to get the head bolts undone. Used an old roof rack as a bender bar that helped no end. was so scared that one would snap so I cracked each one oiled and had a cuppa then tightened them up slightly to work them in. It worked a treat and would recommend this method. I almost smacked myself in the face getting the head off. First impression is the head gasket looks knackered! almost fell apart in my hands and has blocked some of the channels.

WP_000231_zpsb166dae7.jpg

 

Weirdly I'm pleased to see something at fault that can be fixed, also cylinder number 2 looked different to the rest almost cleaner! but it did have oil on it so I'm thinking this might be the one with the dodgy rings. I numbered and bagged the lifters ready for that cleaning method ive seen and turned the head over. Although it is chocked up I didn't think it looked to bad as they all seem the same?

WP_000233_zps8ad15d18.jpg

 

Got the main event at pod this weekend so that stops play for the mo but managed to get the sump off so next up pistons out.

 

Cheers

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adie205

Well as the misses was out I set upon getting the valves out in the front room on the mat! Managed to get one out but rushed trying to remove the stem seal and think I have balls up the valve guide, sake! pulled on the seal like a mad man and it fell in half!

 

My fault for rushing before she got home, does anyone know if I can buy just one value guide? (exhaust)

 

The word of today...SAKE, should have left it

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welshpug

what fell in half?

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adie205

The stem seal, can still get the valve in and out ok

cheers

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welshpug

you should be replacing them regardless given you have the head apart, they don't cost much, and yes you can buy them individually.

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